Convenience Center Removal

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Murdock709

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I’m wanting to add a fog light relay in the factory location, but I need access to the backside of the center to do it.
The fog relay spot currently doesn’t have any terminal connectors, so I figured I’d add some in. From the back... And there in lies my problem.

So for the life of me, I can’t get the damn conv center to budge. I see the plastic tabs on the corners and I’ve pried them back. Darn thing doesn’t want to move.

Any thoughts or tips are appreciated.
Thanks
 

AK49BWL

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Watching... I've been wondering this myself, how to get it loose. I've seen a couple taken apart at the salvage yard but can't really get a good idea of how to pull it apart myself. I feel like I'm missing something obvious lol

I DO however know exactly what terminals you'll need to fill the relay holes: Female Tangless Metripack 280, like so

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/12110847-L?qs=DlE0rdXB/L2dY6vLQkGS3w==

12110845 for large gauge (10-12 gauge), 12110846 for small gauge (18-20), 12110847 for midrange (14-16).
 

east302

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You have to disconnect it from the engine side. There are white and black connectors under the master cylinder.

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The white part is the back part of the convenience center and has two screws holding it on. One is to the upper right (hole in photo above) and the other is to the lower left.

The black connector has a torx screw in the center (red arrow) which I think is captive. Loosen it and the black portion pulls off.

The white part stays in place and is pushed into the cab, disconnect the clips that you mentioned on the convenience center to separate it in there.

There are a few harnesses that attach to the white part that may need to be removed first, depending on how much you need to push the white part in. Those are the harnesses to the wipers, cruise control and a few others. One is tucked way down under the brake booster.

Removing the fender well bolts holding the relay center allows it to move out of the way. Might help with access.
 

east302

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Watching... I've been wondering this myself, how to get it loose. I've seen a couple taken apart at the salvage yard but can't really get a good idea of how to pull it apart myself. I feel like I'm missing something obvious lol

I DO however know exactly what terminals you'll need to fill the relay holes: Female Tangless Metripack 280, like so

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/12110847-L?qs=DlE0rdXB/L2dY6vLQkGS3w==

12110845 for large gauge (10-12 gauge), 12110846 for small gauge (18-20), 12110847 for midrange (14-16).

Learned something new today. So the connector diagrams in the manual actually identify the manufacturer part number. I had no idea that M/P stood for Metripack and that you can buy new connectors.

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Murdock709

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I haven’t gotten to attacking the convenience center just yet. Decided to first fab up the driving light mounts, run the wiring to the aux relay board, and get everything functioning.
Wired the Hella 550’s as DRL and driving lights. When the ignition is on with headlights off, the two lights run at 50% power. They’re kicked up to 100% when the headlights come on.
Came up with a simple 2 relay series/parallel circuit to do it. Runs the lights off ign power in series - 6 volts. I put a diode off the headlight relay to the “100% power” trigger of the driving lights.
Today I plan to hook up two switches, so I can #1 disable the DRL function and #2 disable them turning on with the headlights.
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