C Notch demensions

[jhicks]

98 c1500 3rd door short bed.


Anyone have the demensions and measurements for the c notch? going have one fabbed up. but I cant seem to find the demensions/blue prints anywhere. any help would be nice. I plan to fab up some of the lowering components for my truck.

thanks

 

[sewlow]

Got some pix. Can't post 'em till I get home.

 

[D_EATON]

You must be registered for see images attach

thats the c notch from belltech off my rcsb.

 

[jhicks]

Is it wrong to say I love you bro lmao. Any other blue prints you might have?

And just out of curiosity, why do you have that? lol

 

[D_EATON]

lmao thats all i got and my buddy is trying to save a little $ by making his own

 

[jhicks]

Well it's greatly appreciated. What all is he doin himself?

And slow you can post what you have as well. If you dont mind.

 

[sewlow]

Got home late!
I really should have a build thread on my trucks. Then I could just post the link instead of having to dig these pix up every time someone wants to see 'em!

This started out as a r.r. axle bearing replacement. We kinda got carried away!
Ended up doing a gear change from the 3.42's to 3.73's, ditching the Gov-lok for an Eaton, relocating the upper shock mounts, welding new spring perches, plus fabbing custom notches in the frame & the box cross member.

Removing all the old mounts.

You must be registered for see images attach

Urethane spring bushings. All new hardware & bolts.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

New spring perches.

You must be registered for see images attach

Inside of the frame notch. When the box next comes off, I'm going to continue the boxing of the frame from the rear cab mounts to the last mount for the box.
Notice where the shock tower is located. This is the stock position.

You must be registered for see images attach

Moved the shock tower. This is because @ 4/6, the shocks become too laid out to work properly. My truck's @ 4/7, so those angles were even worse. The hole that we used was pre-existing.
When we were doing the measuring, we found that the factory distances of the towers from the rear end housing are not the same. We corrected that and evened them up.

You must be registered for see images attach

The other side.

You must be registered for see images attach

Welded in the shock extenders.

You must be registered for see images attach

Painted.

You must be registered for see images attach

Mark, The Mad Fabricator, working on the spring perches.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Custom sway bar mounts. For the next round, gonna change out the shells for ones with grease zerks. Urethane + no lube = squeaky-squeaky!

You must be registered for see images attach

All back together.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Notice the relocated brake line frame mount, & the improved shock angle.
We removed the overload spring & added a new lower spring. This gave the extra inch to achieve the 7" rear drop.
This was WRONG! The rear doesn't have any progressive compression anymore & now has a tendency to pogo when pushed hard in the corners.
So, to correct this, the overload is going back in & I'll use a drop shackle set @ 1" to maintain that 7" drop.
Plus I'll have to mess with shims (again!) to get the pinion angle right. Won't need much of one though. Probably just a 1 degree.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Custom sway bar mounts. Based on the original after-market sway bar design which just has a bolt attaching the bar to one side of the mount. Seems to work alright, but in the next round of fabrication I think I'll make up one that that goes on both sides of the upright. This design that's on the truck now looks like it may have a tendency to bind as the suspension compresses & is hit with side loads in the twisties.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Hope this helps you out & gives you an idea or 2 for your truck.

 

[jhicks]

thanks dude. now can you tell me what I don't have to do that you did lol.

 

[sewlow]

I definitely recommend the shock tower relocation! Otherwise, the shocks aren't doing the job they were designed for.
The spring to axle mounts were an extravagance. The Belltech/DJM style works O.K., but they are a compromise to make the original style of mounts to work.
The way that mine mounts is a bit more to fab up, & the pinion angle has to be set via the spring perches. To me it is a more positive attachment than the after market style, which is a 'tighten-those-bolts-&-pinch-that-housing-so-it-won't-rotate' style. With the intention of throwing some real power at the truck, eventually, that aftermarket style wasn't gonna cut it!
If you use the Belltech/DJM style of frame notch, either remove those brackets on the axle housing that might hit the inside of the notch, (on my original Belltech drop, they would hit inside there when the suspension really compressed.) or, install the notches 1" rearward in the frame from the measurements that those manufacturers recommend. This requires drilling a new hole for the bumpstop.
I never did this, but it was recommended to me by 2 separate shops that specialize in lowering vehicles. Being a newbie with these vehicles at the time, I kinda questioned why a manufacturer would design a product that had to be installed differently than the way it was designed to be. I installed the notch so that the bumpstops were in the same position over the housing as the originals. Bolted in. Then welded a bead along each end. The manufacturers recommend to NOT weld the notches to the frame.
Pfffttt! C'mon! Instructions are only to be read AFTER the install! Lol!

 

[jhicks]

yeah I plan to use a set of spring perch's probably from a guy on here. another guy said to set the axle 1 inch back when I flip it. I don't want to have to do the shock mounts unless its needed. im going to have to pay a guy to do the welding so im not sure how much I can do at once. right now I daily my motorcycle. but im not sure when ill need my truck lol.

I cant afford the actual kit that I want. a kit would make it way easier. but im mechanically savvy, so I don't see why I cant attempt this. I just want to make sure I get everything right. so ill take in all the info you can spare since you have personally done this.

so if you have the time, any in depth details you have will be greatly appreciated. ive been studying seriously on all this for the last week. trying not to miss any detail.