Brake Trouble on 96 Z71

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Bad_Luck_Club

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Some report being able to get the air out by slamming on the brakes while on gravel...followed, I would think, by bleeding at the four corners as the air, once it leaves the ABS unit, is then held in the downstream brake lines.

A shop charged me $70 or $80 a couple of years ago to do the automated bleed and a bleed at the four wheels. The guy used a Snap-on scanner.

That is probably the best way to do it if you don’t have access to a capable scanner.


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I'm going to give that a try. I did a couple of hard stops on some backroads near my house ,but I know a couple of gravel spots near by I can try.
 

Bad_Luck_Club

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My '88 has Kelsey-Hayes Rear Wheel Anti-Lock.

There's a bleeder screw right on the ABS unit. Is that true of yours? Step on the brake pedal, have someone loosen and re-tighten the bleeder screw. Could not be easier.
I'm going to give it another look ,but I followed this tutorial on bleeding the ABS system ,but I did not get any fluid coming from my ABS module so I think either there is a ton of air in there or my ABS just does not plain work anymore. Mine had a little valve to depress ,but no screw.
 

Bad_Luck_Club

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I deleted my abs, replaced all brake lines, and added a willwood prop valve on my truck. The valva says "disc brakes" on the package, but works ok with the valve turned all of the way down for the back brakes. Part of the reason for replacing all of the lines was so that I could use the correct fittings for all of my components, which means flaring your own ends etc.

It is a lot of work, but my brakes now work about as good as your typical 1980's model car. When stock, they worked about as well as a 1960's model car. Brakes are the biggest weak point on these trucks, I think.
Oh bending and flaring lines is super easy for me. I use copper lines. Easy to bend and flare! I'm going to take a look at that and see how much that is. I was looking at a brand new prop valve for a 80s truck so if it's about the same I'll probably pick it up then.
 

Schurkey

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COPPER tubing will not stand up to use in a brake system. It's dangerous.

There are copper-nickel alloy products sold for brake tubing use. I'm told they're easy to work with. Never tried 'em. I still like double-wall seamless steel tubing.
 

Bad_Luck_Club

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COPPER tubing will not stand up to use in a brake system. It's dangerous.

There are copper-nickel alloy products sold for brake tubing use. I'm told they're easy to work with. Never tried 'em. I still like double-wall seamless steel tubing.
Oh no I meant that I used NiCopp line. I bought this from Advanced Auto https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...line-tubing-coil-3-16-x-25-cnc-325/16190029-P. It's pretty easy to work with ,but I've had problems with flaring it where it will tear or crack.
 
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