IF (big IF) you had a 6-lug wheel, I'd tell you that as far as I'm concerned, those 254mm (10 inch) Leading/Trailing shoe brakes aren't worth fixing. Find a decent Treasure Yard, and grab the 11.x backing plates, wheel cylinders, shoes, drums, etc. Remove 254mm Leading/Trailing shoe brakes, install 11.x" Duo-Servo brakes using new parts as required. Instant upgrade in brake power, with minimal downside, not much expense, and the Duo-Servo design actually adjusts properly, for long-term satisfaction.
But things are more complex on the 5-lug trucks. I guess it's basically impossible to find the equivalent 5-lug drums. At any rate, I've never looked into that. You may be "stuck" dealing with the horrible 254mm Leading/Trailing shoe brakes.
While you're under the vehicle, make sure the park brake cables apply and RELEASE like they're supposed to. Most park brakes don't release, and some are so bad that they won't apply. USING the park brake frequently is critical for keeping the 254mm rear drum brakes in proper adjustment. Almost nobody uses the park brake frequently. GM should have been sued for using the Leading/Trailing brakes.
You'll need a decent scan tool to properly bleed the ABS unit when you're done.
HELL, NO!
The so-called "NBS" master cylinder is NOT compatible with the low-drag calipers on the front of your truck. The bore is too large, it throws away hydraulic advantage. Not such a problem with the power booster working, but if the booster fails...it's gonna take real muscle to push the pedal hard enough. The proper master cylinder has a gigantic 3rd chamber in addition to the usual 1" or 1 1/8" primary and secondary pistons. The big third chamber provides a high-volume, low-pressure gush of fluid to the calipers to get the pistons/pads against the rotor. Then the small-bore section of the master provides high pressure with moderate pedal effort to actually stop the vehicle.