Bowtie Brody's Namesake 96 454

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Christian Steffen

I'm Awesome
Joined
May 31, 2016
Messages
1,173
Reaction score
432
Location
Green River, WY
Well it looks like brakes, hubs, ball joints, some bushings and other things moved up on the list. I hit a pothole at about 55 miles an hour the other night so the truck likes to pull hard to the right under moderate braking now.
Then a new headliner and new carpet because mine are starting to mold due to some leaks in the cab.


Anyone have any luck with Detroit Axle components? I'm looking at their hubs because I don't want to pay $300 for a set of Timkens but I may just have to bite that bullet.
Definitely don't go cheap. I tried a cheap set once and ended up buying timkens within 1000 miles.
 

454cid

Sooper Pooper
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
8,104
Reaction score
9,125
Location
The 26th State
Anyone have any luck with Detroit Axle components? I'm looking at their hubs because I don't want to pay $300 for a set of Timkens but I may just have to bite that bullet.

I think they are the company I looked at awhile back that also does rack and pinions, and sells on Amazon. Lot's of bad reviews.

I was in a similar situation earlier this year, in that Timken was kind of out of reach for me... I tried Mevotech through Rockauto, but the ABS sensor was damaged. I returned it, and ordered a Drivetech through Advance Auto, online. I used a coupon code and got a price that was close to a Rockauto price... sometimes they beat Rockauto in price. I bought a second one later, and found I didn't need it....returning it was as easy as driving to the local store even though I had purchased it online.

The only thing about the Advance Drivetech that I don't like is that the ABS sensor wire retainers are plastic/rubber, and I need the metal ones for my truck. I had to very carefully cut the plastic/rubber pieces off the wire and then bend the metal brackets to remove them from the old wire, and then crimp them onto the new wire. I used my HF nippers to open up the metal brackets.
 

BNielsen

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 6, 2018
Messages
2,669
Reaction score
4,182
Location
North Carolina
Went ahead and bit the bullet, ordered a set of Timken hubs; $304 shipped. Not great but I know I'd regret trying to cheap out.
Going to order a brake rotor/pad kit off of Summit; I'm gonna check over my calipers to see if they're still good and possibly just clean them and throw a fresh coat of paint on and run them so I can save a couple bucks.
Anyone got any recommendations on brake lines? I've tried looking up Russell lines on Summit but I can't find anything that fits stock height K2500s, every review I've seen for braided steel lines was for lifted K1500s.

I was hoping to do ball joints and control arm bushings but I have other birds to stone with the interior, so I'm just gonna clean and grease the piss out of everything and hold off until tax time to redo the front end.
 

454cid

Sooper Pooper
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
8,104
Reaction score
9,125
Location
The 26th State
Went ahead and bit the bullet, ordered a set of Timken hubs; $304 shipped. Not great but I know I'd regret trying to cheap out.
Going to order a brake rotor/pad kit off of Summit; I'm gonna check over my calipers to see if they're still good and possibly just clean them and throw a fresh coat of paint on and run them so I can save a couple bucks.
Anyone got any recommendations on brake lines? I've tried looking up Russell lines on Summit but I can't find anything that fits stock height K2500s, every review I've seen for braided steel lines was for lifted K1500s.

I was hoping to do ball joints and control arm bushings but I have other birds to stone with the interior, so I'm just gonna clean and grease the piss out of everything and hold off until tax time to redo the front end.


If your doing hubs now, you might as well do lower ball joints, at least. The uppers won't be as much work to do later. To do lowers later, you're taking everything part again.
 

BNielsen

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 6, 2018
Messages
2,669
Reaction score
4,182
Location
North Carolina
If your doing hubs now, you might as well do lower ball joints, at least. The uppers won't be as much work to do later. To do lowers later, you're taking everything part again.

As much as I want to do that, the funds aren't there right now unless I pull out of savings. I'll see how I feel in the next couple of days though. I hate doing things twice.
 

454cid

Sooper Pooper
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
8,104
Reaction score
9,125
Location
The 26th State
As much as I want to do that, the funds aren't there right now unless I pull out of savings. I'll see how I feel in the next couple of days though. I hate doing things twice.

Check Rockauto for prices on your parts. I bet you'll do better than Summit.

I bought Raybestos lines, and they were rebranded Sunsongs for twice as much, so you may as well buy the Sunsong lines.

Don't forget to check the Rockauto sub-forum here for the latest 5% discount code.
 

BNielsen

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 6, 2018
Messages
2,669
Reaction score
4,182
Location
North Carolina
Don't forget about Amazon too. Often parts are cheaper on Rockauto but their stupid shipping charges can be murder.

Amazon was more expensive than Rockauto; shipping and tax would've put just one ball joint almost $20 more than Rockauto.

Ordered another $300 worth of parts, still gotta get brake lines bought; and now I'm debating on tie-rods now too, but I'll probably hold off and do pitman/idler/idler bracket along with maybe a new steering box....
 

454cid

Sooper Pooper
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
8,104
Reaction score
9,125
Location
The 26th State
Amazon was more expensive than Rockauto; shipping and tax would've put just one ball joint almost $20 more than Rockauto.

I may have posted this already, but I hardly bother with Amazon for autoparts anymore. I find that Rockauto will often be about the same, or less, even with shipping, if I'm looking for a particular brand. Also Amazon seems to be filled with no-name resellers just marketing Chinese parts.

Ordered another $300 worth of parts, still gotta get brake lines bought; and now I'm debating on tie-rods now too, but I'll probably hold off and do pitman/idler/idler bracket along with maybe a new steering box....

That sounds like a good idea. You only have to touch the suspension at the knuckle so you won't be doing any work over again. The only caveat might be the box. If you've got a good working box, I'd hold onto it. I hear of so many guys getting remans that just don't last, or are even bad out of the box. I bought a rebuilt AC Delco a few years ago, and I think that's were my steering slop is, the Pitman was replaced at the same time, and everything else, except the idler was replaced this summer.
 

Christian Steffen

I'm Awesome
Joined
May 31, 2016
Messages
1,173
Reaction score
432
Location
Green River, WY
I may have posted this already, but I hardly bother with Amazon for autoparts anymore. I find that Rockauto will often be about the same, or less, even with shipping, if I'm looking for a particular brand. Also Amazon seems to be filled with no-name resellers just marketing Chinese parts.



That sounds like a good idea. You only have to touch the suspension at the knuckle so you won't be doing any work over again. The only caveat might be the box. If you've got a good working box, I'd hold onto it. I hear of so many guys getting remans that just don't last, or are even bad out of the box. I bought a rebuilt AC Delco a few years ago, and I think that's were my steering slop is, the Pitman was replaced at the same time, and everything else, except the idler was replaced this summer.

It is a bit of a gamble, but I would almost trust a low mileage salvage yard takeout more than some of the reman one.
 
Top