Big parasitic draw and already tested all circuits

[hekg]

Hey all , I've had a huge draw that kills my battery in one night. I've tested every circuit and relay under the hood and on the dash fuse panel.

I'm testing by putting my multimeter between the negative battery terminal and the disconnected negative cable itself and it's a constant 12.6v draw even after pullint out each fuse and relay one at a time.

I can't test the amp draw with my meter because it only does AC amps.

Where should I start looking now?? Thanks!

 

[Erik the Awful]

Pull fuses one at a time and use a test light to check for any circuit that lights up the bulb. A meter will show voltage on a draw that won't kill the battery - like the stereo memory wire. A test light will light up if the draw is enough to kill the battery. Go a step or two up from the base-model test lights. If you can get one with a 6' ground wire you won't regret it.

 

[hekg]

Pull fuses one at a time and use a test light to check for any circuit that lights up the bulb. A meter will show voltage on a draw that won't kill the battery - like the stereo memory wire. A test light will light up if the draw is enough to kill the battery. Go a step or two up from the base-model test lights. If you can get one with a 6' ground wire you won't regret it.

So you're saying to pull each fuse and put the test light on the fuse socket itself to see if it lights up the bulb?

 

[thegawd]

Check these usual culprits....

underhood light... bent in the correct position, is it going off?

Glove box, is it sitting in its hangers correctly? Does the pin turn the light off with the door closed?

Passanger side vanity mirror on the sunvisor was what was doing it for me. Hell I dont sit there and especially not at night. Sunvisor was down when I went to get something out if the truck one night and ahhh ha! A light was on. Make sure the hinges are in correct position and the pin lines up to shut the lights off. Simple. With an incandescent bulb there will be a significant Draw from these bulbs. Likewise check the drivers side but since you use it it's probably fine.

These circuits are always on but they are fused but I cant remember what one.

I have changed all interior bulbs to leds, they are all plug and play. The only socket with a problem is the cargo light on pickups. Check the terminals with a voltmeter so you dont waste any led bulbs as they will short out.

Al

 

[hekg]

Check these usual culprits....

underhood light... bent in the correct position, is it going off?

Glove box, is it sitting in its hangers correctly? Does the pin turn the light off with the door closed?

Passanger side vanity mirror on the sunvisor was what was doing it for me. Hell I dont sit there and especially not at night. Sunvisor was down when I went to get something out if the truck one night and ahhh ha! A light was on. Make sure the hinges are in correct position and the pin lines up to shut the lights off. Simple. With an incandescent bulb there will be a significant Draw from these bulbs. Likewise check the drivers side but since you use it it's probably fine.

These circuits are always on but they are fused but I cant remember what one.

I have changed all interior bulbs to leds, they are all plug and play. The only socket with a problem is the cargo light on pickups. Check the terminals with a voltmeter so you dont waste any led bulbs as they will short out.

Al

Thanks for the tips! I'll check these out asap.

 

[thegawd]

No problem! Theres many great things about these trucks. The simplicity of the circuitry and lack of computer BS has got to be my favorite. A parasitic draw on these trucks is almost always a light on somewhere.

Al

 

[AK49BWL]

All interior "always powered" dome lights and such are on the Ctsy fuse, including the cargo lamp.

Don't forget the alternator could be drawing as well if the regulator is shot.

 

[thegawd]

That's a good one to know as I have not encountered that one yet. Its not fused in the fuse box either so wouldnt find it there.

Since you have checked all the fuses and should have found it on the courtesy fuse if that's where the problem is, i would look at the alternator.

How would someone test this, battery dosent charge or stay charged or.... ?

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Whoa man you're chasing your tail. Of course it's going to read battery voltage hooked up like that. You need it in series like you have it only checking for amp draw. You need to have you meter configured correctly and check the amp draw. If the leads are in the wrong spot you won't get a reading. If you get an amp draw over the limit of the meter you'll smoke it so don't open the door etc.

This guy shows how it's done.
https://www.google.com/search?q=par...afe=active#kpvalbx=_VtloX_-wFfTB0PEPhdaAkAg50

 

[RawbDidIt]

Agreed, voltage tells you nothing about a draw, need a multimeter that reads current (Amps). To test it you hook it up between all ground wires and the negative terminal of the battery so current has to go through multimeter. Retest all fuses. If they are all in spec (under 200 mA IIRC, so pull fusesone at a time until you get under that limit), unplug the power wire to the alternator. If you still can't find it, there's probably an aftermarket load on the system like an amp, or lights. Check the battery and engine fuse box as these are common places to wire up additional loads for power.

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