Big 3 Upgrades Questions

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Goliath

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I am still having intermittent sarting problems, think now it's a switch since I can run a wire from batt positive to ingnition side of starter solenoid and start car when this happens.

PO had installed a dual battery set up (with isolator, etc) and I took all of that out plus every wire going to both batteries. I also discovered while I was at it that although there was an isolator separating the batts, he had hooked them up directly with other wires so isolator was pointless (all of this was somewhat "hidden" in a bunch of loom).

I am going to re-run all my wires to both batteries and redo the isolator set-up and big 3 upgrade while I'm at it.

Anyway, here's my question - instead of getting special terminals or having multiple wires coming from battery, would it be just as effective to run a 1/0 from ground to a dist block with 2 outputs and then run 1/0 from each of those to block and frame?

And here's my noob stupid question - what's the difference between frame and chassis?
 

Shane_o_mac

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I am still having intermittent sarting problems, think now it's a switch since I can run a wire from batt positive to ingnition side of starter solenoid and start car when this happens.

PO had installed a dual battery set up (with isolator, etc) and I took all of that out plus every wire going to both batteries. I also discovered while I was at it that although there was an isolator separating the batts, he had hooked them up directly with other wires so isolator was pointless (all of this was somewhat "hidden" in a bunch of loom).

I am going to re-run all my wires to both batteries and redo the isolator set-up and big 3 upgrade while I'm at it.

Anyway, here's my question - instead of getting special terminals or having multiple wires coming from battery, would it be just as effective to run a 1/0 from ground to a dist block with 2 outputs and then run 1/0 from each of those to block and frame?


And here's my noob stupid question - what's the difference between frame and chassis?


Yes it would make it look cleaner if I'm understanding right.

Frame and chassis = same thing.
 

WFO4X4

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i always understood that a chassis could include axles and or wheels, and the frame was absent all that. but basicaly, i think there is abit of cross over with them.
 

Cablguy184

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on these trucks ... on the passenger side ....
First ... There needs to be a 18 inch negative lead going from the negative post to the passenger side fender REPLACING the stock ground ... where ever the stock ground is going, remove it ... it should not have anything to do with the lights (i think) ...
Second ... There needs to be a no longer than a 24 inch lead from the negative battery post to the frame directly below the battery near the engine ...
Third ... Then a no longer than 18 inch lead from that frame mount location to the stock passenger side engine grounding point ...
Fourth ... Then there needs to be ano longer than a 24 inch lead leaving that engine grounding point going back to the negative post on your passenger side battery ...
Fifth ... you need to run a no longer than 24 inch lead from the positive side of the passenger side battery directly to the positive output post to the alternator ...
Sixth ... you need to run a no longer that a 18 inch lead from the positive post on the passenger side battery to a fuse block to run your power amplifiers ...

There is alot more to do from here ... are yall with me so far ??
 

Cablguy184

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here is my set up so far ... sorry for the "not so great" phone pics ...
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