Anyone Ever Used An Engine Dyno?

[Justin S]

I've been tossing up the idea of having my engine broken in and tuned in a shop with an engine dyno before going in my truck, vs doing it myself once in the truck. Has anyone ever done this before? I know there is a shop about an hour from me that has an engine dyno, but I have no idea how much something like that might cost, and what I need to have done with my engine first. Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks!

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I've used them several times, although not for break in, just for bragging or tuning.

They places I went charged between 65-80 for three pulls and an extra 10-25 for wideband. This is just straight, load it up, run it, and tell you what it made and what the AFR is.

For them to tune your vehicle with software, EFIlive, HP Tuner's, whatever. It's usually 350-500 bucks.

They won't run anything leaking or not in otherwise good condition. You start ******* your temp gauge or whatever, they're going to cut your run short. I went to a shop once that wouldn't run anything with dumps.

 

[Justin S]

I'm not talking about a rolling road dyno, I'm talking about an engine dyno, just to where the engine bolts up to it to test run it by itself.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I'm not talking about a rolling road dyno, I'm talking about an engine dyno, just to where the engine bolts up to it to test run it by itself.

Right, because you said, "before going in my truck", and I, failed reading comprehension today lol.

I do it with any flat tappet motor I build now, the place I use charges depending on whether they machined, built, or didn't do anything with it. It's 500 bucks to bring an engine you built at home with no machining by them.

Same thing, make sure everything is in place, or they'll charge you labor to fix it, or pull it from the dyno.

I had one sit for three weeks once because I got a bolt in the wrong place and the rocker's weren't getting oil, so they pulled it to the side, carried on, and never called me lol.

 

[Justin S]

My only main concern is that since this is a fairly well built engine, i'm just concerned about flattening a cam lobe. I asked the company I bought the long block from, and they said its perfectly fine to break in as is, and they haven't gotten any bad reviews with their engine sales. It has dual valve springs and 1.7:1 ratio rockers, and i've read people saying you should change those for break in, and some that say you don't have to, as long as you use quality break in oil and follow the break in procedure, should be fine. Aside from that, i'm running a serp belt setup and am wondering how that would work on an engine dyno, because of the ps pump too.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

There's alot of conflicting info out there regarding flat tappet motor's now.

I'm not expert, I've heard everything you said lol. That's why I just took the last engine I built to Baker and let them do it. It was cheaper than new bearings throughout if I did wipe a lobe.

I've built engines in the past, or swapped cams, and just ran it in in the driveway, but I've seen the same stuff as you lately, and now I'm freaked out lol.

The belt shouldn't matter to the engine dyno.

 

[Justin S]

I only mention the belt because i was wondering how they would run the water pump if it didn't have a belt on. I think for the price and the hassle, I might just give it a try myself, and if something happens, it will be a learning experience. I should have just spend the extra $ and got the one that came with a roller cam

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I only mention the belt because i was wondering how they would run the water pump if it didn't have a belt on. I think for the price and the hassle, I might just give it a try myself, and if something happens, it will be a learning experience. I should have just spend the extra $ and got the one that came with a roller cam

Oh, yeah, I'd have no problem with a roller lol. The last engine I built was a 390 FE last fall, roller cams for those are way more than I want to spend on an old truck lol.