I've been driving a GMT400 for quite a while now, my previous Daily Driver was an extremely stock
1994 GMC K2500 4x4 (light duty) ECSB SLT
5.7/4l60
Tow package
Toyota Tundra Rims with stock sized tires and stock GMC center caps. (I don't like aluminum wheels)
I loved the ride/handling on this truck, which is partially why I never touched it.
I still own it, my wife got it from her Dad in 1993 with only 7 miles on it (she lived 5 miles from the dealership and when she got home one day it was already parked in her garage)
Between the two of us, we put a quarter of a million miles on that truck, ran solid, never a problem (ok, one problem, the transmission was replaced at 136k).
Its untimely demise (taken out of daily use) was March 24, 2013 when I was t-boned by a semi. He ran a red light, the truck paid the price, I was the only occupant. Truck was totaled, but we kept it (no salvage title)
These pictures were taken less than a week apart. I was pissed to say the least.
It still runs and drives, just needs a rear leaf spring, I pushed the bed side up out of the tire/wheel with a tractor loader. It is sitting behind my shop right now waiting for me to buy replacement panels for the cab and either a replacement box or panels to repair the box.
Wife's Daily Driver is a
GMT900
2012 Tahoe LT
pretty much stock and I plan on leaving it that way for another 50k miles at least.
Someday:
leveling lift
CAI
Cat Back Exhaust
And welcome our newest addition
1998 Tahoe LS
5.7/4l60
stock everything (almost)
I do NOT love the stock ride on this, the tire/rim upgrade fixed part of the issue, I'm certain new ball joints and shocks will fix the rest.
I've removed the air cleaner silencer
I replaced the O2 sensors (I still have an exhaust leak, I bought the gaskets and the replacement bolts for the manifolds to downpipe -- I am procrastinating, those bolts are going to break, I know it)
I've replaced the stock 16" Aluminum rims and 245/75R16 (31") tires with stock 2007 Nissan 17" rims and 265/70R17 tires (32")
Before Tires/Rims
After
Still needs some work
Upper balljoints (been reading about the balljoint flip, seems reasonable, easy and cheap)
Rear Add-a-Leaf (its soft/saggy, and a U-bolt reversal -- nuts on top -- I'll make new spring plates)
Raise front to match rear after add-a-leaves.
Chev steel rim center caps and associated lugnuts/plastic lock nuts
I need some sort of running boards/rock sliders/boatsides, partially to keep the rocks/mud off it and partially so my kids can get in and out on their own (ages 4 and 6), even stock its a little too tall.
This truck with be daily driven, most days 50 miles of interstate 75-80mph all year long, there are no hills, no mud, and no rocks in Fargo ND, so I don't have to worry about articulation, but I do want a smoother ride, a little altitude and easier maintenance. I also want to swap out any Tahoe specific components for more easily available pickup parts (leaf springs and Torque Rods are the most pressing). I prefer to research and use my brain and tools to come up with solutions rather than opening up my wallet.
I've read the varying articles regarding the truck torque rods with differing spring rates and I'd like to use the truck style ones so I can make my own decision as to which rate I like the best rather than being 'stuck' with the stockers. Same with the rear leaf spring arrangement, longer leaves ride smoother. From what I've read shackle over spring (shackle in compression) tend to ride smoother than shackle under spring (shackle in tension)
Of the projects listed above none are high priority (except the ball joints), the only pressure is that I'd like to swap in some add-a-leaves before taking it to get re-aligned. Of course that will necessitate new shocks.
One question before I wrap this up.
What is the maximum operating angle for the CV Shaft(s)?
I see all sort of references cranking up the front suspension 1.5"-2". But that tells me absolutely nothing. If my stock front end is already sagging 1" and I crank it up a maximum of 1.5" that means I've basically raised it 0.5" from stock.
That's about enough for an intro, otherwise I'll start rambling... (even more)
Not to worry though, I'll asking all sorts of questions, some smart, some not so smart.
1994 GMC K2500 4x4 (light duty) ECSB SLT
5.7/4l60
Tow package
Toyota Tundra Rims with stock sized tires and stock GMC center caps. (I don't like aluminum wheels)
I loved the ride/handling on this truck, which is partially why I never touched it.
I still own it, my wife got it from her Dad in 1993 with only 7 miles on it (she lived 5 miles from the dealership and when she got home one day it was already parked in her garage)
Between the two of us, we put a quarter of a million miles on that truck, ran solid, never a problem (ok, one problem, the transmission was replaced at 136k).
Its untimely demise (taken out of daily use) was March 24, 2013 when I was t-boned by a semi. He ran a red light, the truck paid the price, I was the only occupant. Truck was totaled, but we kept it (no salvage title)
These pictures were taken less than a week apart. I was pissed to say the least.
You must be registered for see images attach
It still runs and drives, just needs a rear leaf spring, I pushed the bed side up out of the tire/wheel with a tractor loader. It is sitting behind my shop right now waiting for me to buy replacement panels for the cab and either a replacement box or panels to repair the box.
Wife's Daily Driver is a
GMT900
2012 Tahoe LT
pretty much stock and I plan on leaving it that way for another 50k miles at least.
Someday:
leveling lift
CAI
Cat Back Exhaust
And welcome our newest addition
1998 Tahoe LS
5.7/4l60
stock everything (almost)
I do NOT love the stock ride on this, the tire/rim upgrade fixed part of the issue, I'm certain new ball joints and shocks will fix the rest.
I've removed the air cleaner silencer
I replaced the O2 sensors (I still have an exhaust leak, I bought the gaskets and the replacement bolts for the manifolds to downpipe -- I am procrastinating, those bolts are going to break, I know it)
I've replaced the stock 16" Aluminum rims and 245/75R16 (31") tires with stock 2007 Nissan 17" rims and 265/70R17 tires (32")
Before Tires/Rims
You must be registered for see images attach
After
You must be registered for see images attach
Still needs some work
Upper balljoints (been reading about the balljoint flip, seems reasonable, easy and cheap)
Rear Add-a-Leaf (its soft/saggy, and a U-bolt reversal -- nuts on top -- I'll make new spring plates)
Raise front to match rear after add-a-leaves.
Chev steel rim center caps and associated lugnuts/plastic lock nuts
I need some sort of running boards/rock sliders/boatsides, partially to keep the rocks/mud off it and partially so my kids can get in and out on their own (ages 4 and 6), even stock its a little too tall.
This truck with be daily driven, most days 50 miles of interstate 75-80mph all year long, there are no hills, no mud, and no rocks in Fargo ND, so I don't have to worry about articulation, but I do want a smoother ride, a little altitude and easier maintenance. I also want to swap out any Tahoe specific components for more easily available pickup parts (leaf springs and Torque Rods are the most pressing). I prefer to research and use my brain and tools to come up with solutions rather than opening up my wallet.
I've read the varying articles regarding the truck torque rods with differing spring rates and I'd like to use the truck style ones so I can make my own decision as to which rate I like the best rather than being 'stuck' with the stockers. Same with the rear leaf spring arrangement, longer leaves ride smoother. From what I've read shackle over spring (shackle in compression) tend to ride smoother than shackle under spring (shackle in tension)
Of the projects listed above none are high priority (except the ball joints), the only pressure is that I'd like to swap in some add-a-leaves before taking it to get re-aligned. Of course that will necessitate new shocks.
One question before I wrap this up.
What is the maximum operating angle for the CV Shaft(s)?
I see all sort of references cranking up the front suspension 1.5"-2". But that tells me absolutely nothing. If my stock front end is already sagging 1" and I crank it up a maximum of 1.5" that means I've basically raised it 0.5" from stock.
That's about enough for an intro, otherwise I'll start rambling... (even more)
Not to worry though, I'll asking all sorts of questions, some smart, some not so smart.
