Flushed rear lines until nothing came out after flushing with compressed air.
Unrelated question to your electrical problem:
Did you remove the TXV or disconnect the lines from the rear evap?
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Flushed rear lines until nothing came out after flushing with compressed air.
No, just under the hood. When i replaced it all under the hood the only lines remaining were from the rear ac.
The rear ac also blows really cold air when the ac is jumped to run.
No i did not replace the TXV valve. It seems to be working fine.
Tried the test above and at both spots the test light comes on dim and the ac pump turns on
Interesting. The 1998 service manual, and the sticker on my 1998 Suburban, both indicate a charge of 4# of R134a.Charged it with proper amount of oil and R134A, 3Lb 8oz
The low-pressure switch has one side grounded (normally) and the other side connected to the VCM. Use your test light or a DVM confirm that one terminal of the the low-pressure switch's connector is grounded, and report your results.AC blows cold when the system is on both front and rear.
AC Clutch will not engage unless i jump it at the pump with 12v or jump it at the relay. Fuse is good.
It will not turn on if i jump across both pins on the low pressure switch on the dryer.
Good. Is this with the dash set to AC?If i jump the high pressure switch? at the compressor it does not come on but the AC fan on the condenser comes on.
The high-pressure switch is working, it appears, based on the results from when you "jumped" it. This also suggests the VCM is somewhat sane, as it's responding to the switch. Confirm for me: The high-pressure switch you speak of is the one mounted near the AC lines' aluminum block that bolts to the compressor, yes? I'm just confirming, as there's another high-pressure switch on the back of the compressor.When i check both pressure switches with a trouble light none have power. I think the low pressure should have power??
I just went and looked real close and sure enough there was a plug tucked into the wire harness.
Put a jumper across the plug and the pump now turns on and off with the switch and seems to be working properly
How important is that switch?
Ready to tackle the No dome light problem?