AC Rebuild Input please-condenser yes or no

[Reega]

The parallel flow in my Tahoe and Van are both from Rock Auto.

Do you remember the brand you went with? Some of the pictures don’t look like they would fit with the original brackets. Thanks for your input!

 

[Reega]

As others have suggested, replace it. At least it's easy to access (no radiator removal req'd).

I installed a parallel flow unit that I got from RockAuto, I forget the mfgr.
A couple of gripes about the unit *I* got:

- the mounting points (four points, two top, two bottom) were round-ish, while the OEM were more rectangular. The condenser wasn't held firmly in position. I had to jerry-rig the mounts a bit to improve the condenser retention.

- There was a large gap between the condensor and the radiator support on the passenger's side. I don't like gaps; air going through the gap isn't cooling the refrigerant, so I jerry-rigged a gap-filler from a scrap piece of aluminum sheet.

My point: Get ready for some MacGyver-ing on your part.

If @Schurkey chimes in, he'll tell you to use Nylog Blue on all the O-rings; I agree. I also use it on the fitting threads as an assembly lube.

Lots of guys here like the Sanden compressor. I do too, but to each his own. Sanden #4440 is a direct replacement. There is also version identical to the #4440 except it's got a smaller diameter belt sheave (the part number escapes me, maybe I'll edit later to add); I use this version because it offers more compressor RPM per engine RPM, but one has to be considerate of possible overspeed conditions.

Re: the vacuum pump, test it first with a direct connection to the gauges to make sure it'll pull max vac. Too, get a quart of vacuum oil b/c you're likely to have to change the oil sometime along the way; good oil (meaning uncontaminated by flush or water, as might happen during some prior pump use) is required for the pump to pull max vac.

$0.02

I appreciate it Nitro, I followed one of your other threads that had a lot of really good stuff. What do you think about the evaporator core?

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

What do you think about the evaporator core?

Maybe others will weigh-in on this, as I've never had to service a system that had been violated with stop leak. The front evap core isn't easy to replace. On my Suburban I flushed it numerous times until the flush came out clear (the prior dye in the system would color the flush yellow, indicating residual oil), then vacuumed it down to remove any residual flush from the nooks / crannies of the evaporator. YOURS, however, has been exposed to stop leak; maybe you can effectively remove that stop leak, if it's not turned itself into some form of hardened yuk (e.g., because the system's been left open), with a high-volatility flush. Obviously you don't want the stop leak coating the interior surfaces of the evaporator because it may ("may") either impede the flow of refrigerant and/or act as an insulator, impeding the flow of heat to the refrigerant.

Here's some follow-up on my prior post.

The condenser I used was ACDELCO 156958. I see on RockAuto's site they say to use mounting insulators 52480250 (qty 2) and 52480249 (qty 2). I think those parts are obsolete, but if you try to this route, study any pictures of the insulators you can find and compare them to any picture of the that condenser you can find. Also, read this post b/c it's relevant: https://autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=2&threadid=30968

The Sanden compressor I mentioned prior, i.e., with the smaller sheave, is their p/n 4261. If you want to learn more about it search GMT400 for "Sanden" in posts from me and others. I used it on my Suburban because my system has 4# of refrigerant to pump to two evaps in a big interior; too, at 70MPH road speed I'm only at 2200RPM on the engine, so I decided to use the smaller sheave compressor to provide more pumping (R134a liters / second) when engaged. For someone with a truck cab, the need isn't as great. @L31MaxExpress also uses the same compressor for his Express van... dual evaps, big interior.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Do you remember the brand you went with? Some of the pictures don’t look like they would fit with the original brackets. Thanks for your input!

FVP CON4721

Just looking at RAs site again, FVP, TYC and OSC all appear to have the same exact stock picture and carry the same part number.

 

[jaywestfall]

If you live in the Houston area, I bought this one for my AC job from Rock Auto on my 98 ext cab. You can have it. Opened but new, never used. Would of cost me a fortune for return shipping.

 

[Reega]

So the Reach didn’t look like the picture, but it fit in the factory mounts. One was a little ****-eyed but it worked. Replacing the orifice tube let out a nice swish of vacuum. Maybe a little more but seems decent. Probably if I did it again, I would buy from Napa and check in store. Sent the first one back cause one mounting point was angles pretty poorly….Summit was awesome though.

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[Reega]

So the Reach didn’t look like the picture, but it fit in the factory mounts. One was a little ****-eyed but it worked. Replacing the orifice tube let out a nice swish of vacuum. Maybe a little more but seems decent. Probably if I did it again, I would buy from Napa and check in store. Sent the first one back cause one mounting point was angles pretty poorly….Summit was awesome though.

You must be registered for see images attach

******* gets screened out? Funny

 

[Reega]

******* gets screened out? Funny

Okay rooster’s other name

 

[Reega]

Ended up having to replace the EVAP, couldn’t get the lines loose. Long job, I made it longer by the amount of cleaning and replacing the air box doors. I wouldn’t be afraid of it. Nothing too complicated, just a lot of steps

 

[Reega]

Finally under vacuum tonight. First pump with clean oil only pulled 25-27. Thought it was the HF gauge set. Got a loaner and also said 25. Even though the rental pump from Oreilly looked great with new oil, it wouldn’t pull more than that. Second gauge set confirmed. 2nd rental pump from AZ got me to 28-29 ish, also supplied with new oil. 1st pull