AC Rebuild Input please-condenser yes or no

[Reega]

‘00 K2500, 350, 4l80e.
Current is HT6/H6 compressor. Two cans R-134a with dye and the only spots I can find are in the compressor. Looks like common “belly leak”. First can I shot in had dye, didn’t realize it also had stop leak.

Current replacement list is:
Suction/Dishcarge lines
Orifice Tube
Drier
Sanden SD7H15 compressor & SD-15 oil
New o-rings with nylog

Plan to flush:
Evap
Liquid line from condenser to evap.

Question is, should I go ahead and replace the condenser? I really don’t like the idea of stop leak through there, but the aftermarket offerings scare me. I wish I had noticed it had stop leak before I shot it in there.

I’ve had the truck about 3 years and it’s always leaked, maybe the condenser replacement is a foregone conclusion?
Not really worried about the $, just prefer better quality stuff.

As always I am appreciative of y’all’s experience and opinions. Hopefully all the lines break loose and I can keep the evap. Any suggestions welcome. Obviously, plan to vacuum down, hold overnight, and recharge.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

should I go ahead and replace the condenser?

Yes, it's hard to get a thorough flush through the condenser, the lower tubes on each pass will get more flushing than the upper. Also make sure you get a Parallel Flow condenser.

 

[haroldwca]

With all of the other items, you might as well do the condenser. Remember, it's probably the same age as the compressor. I have to do my AC system soon. I'm doing compressor, drier, condenser, and probably evap core. It's an '88 model, so I'll have all new items for reliability. That's my two cents worth. Good luck!

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I'm doing compressor, drier, condenser, and probably evap core.

Don't forget the Orifice Tube too, AND, as @Schurkey will say "all of the O-rings" - good advice

 

[Reega]

Thank y’all. Any suggestions for aftermarket condensers? I’m leaning toward this

Reach Cooling Air Conditioning Condensers 31-4720​

from Summit, the part number seems to be the Napa offering. Looks like the proper fit, but who knows????? Rock Auto’s look like they wouldn’t fit any gmt 400 .

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Thank y’all. Any suggestions for aftermarket condensers? I’m leaning toward this

Reach Cooling Air Conditioning Condensers 31-4720​

from Summit, the part number seems to be the Napa offering. Looks like the proper fit, but who knows????? Rock Auto’s look like they wouldn’t fit any gmt 400 .

The parallel flow in my Tahoe and Van are both from Rock Auto.

 

[haroldwca]

Don't forget the Orifice Tube too, AND, as @Schurkey will say "all of the O-rings"

Wouldn't dream of it! I was just noting the big ticket items.

 

[95 Tahoe]

Do everything once and cry once. Don't do like me and have to take it back down a second time.

 

[TreeGeared]

AC is on my list as well. I would replace everything considering the age and chancing having to do it a second time.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Question is, should I go ahead and replace the condenser?

As others have suggested, replace it. At least it's easy to access (no radiator removal req'd).

I installed a parallel flow unit that I got from RockAuto, I forget the mfgr.
A couple of gripes about the unit *I* got:

- the mounting points (four points, two top, two bottom) were round-ish, while the OEM were more rectangular. The condenser wasn't held firmly in position. I had to jerry-rig the mounts a bit to improve the condenser retention.

- There was a large gap between the condensor and the radiator support on the passenger's side. I don't like gaps; air going through the gap isn't cooling the refrigerant, so I jerry-rigged a gap-filler from a scrap piece of aluminum sheet.

My point: Get ready for some MacGyver-ing on your part.

If @Schurkey chimes in, he'll tell you to use Nylog Blue on all the O-rings; I agree. I also use it on the fitting threads as an assembly lube.

Lots of guys here like the Sanden compressor. I do too, but to each his own. Sanden #4440 is a direct replacement. There is also version identical to the #4440 except it's got a smaller diameter belt sheave (the part number escapes me, maybe I'll edit later to add); I use this version because it offers more compressor RPM per engine RPM, but one has to be considerate of possible overspeed conditions.

Re: the vacuum pump, test it first with a direct connection to the gauges to make sure it'll pull max vac. Too, get a quart of vacuum oil b/c you're likely to have to change the oil sometime along the way; good oil (meaning uncontaminated by flush or water, as might happen during some prior pump use) is required for the pump to pull max vac.

$0.02