AC R-134a replacement

[udidwht]

Looks like a Sanden to me. Maybe a 508.

That's what I was thinking Sanden. I'll have to get a closer look at the serial plate on it.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Definitely not an R4.
Here's what searches show for Sanden's (verify model number).

Sanden SD5..........................PAG 100
Sanden SD7 (key shaft)..............PAG 100
Sanden SD7 (splined shaft)..........PAG 46
Sanden SD7V.........................PAG 46
Sanden TR...........................PAG 46
Sanden TRF..........................PAG 46
Sanden TRS..........................PAG 46

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

The P30 chassis manual aka "Chevrolet Motorhome Chassis Service Guide" mentions a Sanden 709.

The image below comes from the attached .pdf.

The manual states "Oil used is Sanden SP-20 (GM part #15959132)" for R134a systems. SP-20 is reported to be a 100 cSt oil. See https://www.sanden.com/oilspecs.html

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

The entire AC section of the P30 chassis manual is attached.

Probably the better route to servicing the AC system is to follow the mfgr's instructions... ?

At least it's a place to start. If retrofitting R152a then deviate appropriately.

Or simply take it to an AC shop and let them finish the job; give them complete details of what you've done to it, e.g.,

- prior service history, if known
- performance of system prior to the intentional discharge of R134a
- components replaced recently
- oil added recently (or not)
- amount of time open to the atmosphere (they may want to flush if it's been open to atmosphere for an extended period)
- present balance of your personal checking account / credit card limit

 

[udidwht]

Will confirm the model # off the compressor before purchasing the oil.

Anyone care to give me a recommended amount of oil I should put into the system given I replaced the rather large condenser? And where should I add it? Or does it matter where such as drier bottle, line from drier etc...

 

[udidwht]

Compressor is a Sanden U-7903 part#15680077

Was sent the wrong drier bottle so now waiting for the correct one GPD 1411722. But have run into another wall....Washington no longer allows R-134a. Can't get it online either. Huh...

So I now have a system that is empty. Now giving thought either...

1. Leave it empty.

2. Go the ES Enviro-Safe route..

Environmentally Friendly Refrigerant and Automotive Fluid Products - Enviro-Safe, Inc

Enviro-Safe carries a full line of fluids, tools, and supplies including Refrigerant Support, Automotive Fluid, A/C Tools and Industrial Supplies.

www.es-refrigerants.com

With the R-134a/UV replacement coolant it allows for no vacuum to be pulled.

With the 'Industrial' one can pull vacuum on the system.

According to their FAQ and R-134a/UV product...

Why do the directions on Enviro-Safe 134a Replacement with Dye say "Do NOT Pull a Vacuum"?​

Our US Department of Transportation has regulations on how much pressure can be in a can. Everyone wants the cheapest and best price on refrigerant. So, we use a 2Q can because it is a standard can that can hold 70 psi at 70 degrees F. If a system is a small system and not a dual air system, the small amount of air in the system will make our refrigerant with dye work correctly as hydrocarbons do not react to air. If you do take the Enviro-Safe 134a Replacement Refrigerant with dye and you do charge into a vacuum and charge by gauge readings, you are actually overcharging a system that can cause damage later. It would not allow for expansion room so when the system gets extremely hot, it can tear up a compressor. If you pull a vacuum and charge by weight (6 oz of ES = 16 oz of 134), normally your gauge reading will read low and your cooling isn't great.

NOTE: This does not hold true for a larger system that has front and rear ac systems. Dual air systems MUST use Enviro-Safe Industrial 134a Replacement Refrigerant! This refrigerant allows a vacuum to be pulled. We would love for all of our customers to use Enviro-Safe Industrial 134a replacement as that refrigerant will allow everyone to pull a vac and gets the best cooling!

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Compressor is a Sanden U-7903 part#15680077

Was sent the wrong drier bottle so now waiting for the correct one GPD 1411722. But have run into another wall....Washington no longer allows R-134a. Can't get it online either. Huh...

If FedEx will ship it, I’ll gladly send you as many 12oz cans of R134a as you wish. Sam’s shows R134a 12oz cans in 12pk cardboard boxes…. see here:

https://www.samsclub.com/p/r134a-refrigerant-12-12-oz-case/prod23990645

You must be registered for see images attach

IMHO that “no vacuum” rhetoric is BS and you’ll do yourself a service if you take the same stance. Will it work? Well, yeah, in a way. Will it work as well as it should, for as long as it should? No… and if that’s of no importance to you, then abandon it now and move on.

You WANT to vacuum the system, whether you realize it yet or not. Why? For at least the following reasons:

(1) You get the benefit of... rather, you fulfill the requirement of removing the moisture from the system (which, if left, will cause you long-term problems b/c it combines with the PAG oil to form an acid that leads to internal corrosion of the system).

(2) You also get the benefit of seeing whether the system will hold a vacuum... that gives you some confidence from the onset, before installing the relatively expensive refrigerant, that the system is leak-free. Vacuum the system down to 30" (30" if you're at sea level, less if you're at higher elevation; about 1" less vacuum per 1000' elevation), close the valves and turn off the pump... and see if it will hold vacuum overnight. If it does, you can charge with confidence. If not, start looking for the leak.

$0.02

 

[smdk2500]

If FedEx will ship it, I’ll gladly send you as many 12oz cans of R134a as you wish.

What they don't know wont hurt you lol. Damn 134a is getting expensive. I bought a 30lb keg 2 years ago for less then what you posted is.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

What they don't know wont hurt you lol. Damn 134a is getting expensive. I bought a 30lb keg 2 years ago for less then what you posted is.

Yes, I seem to remember I bought two 30# cans of Johnsen's R134a from Sam's for less than $100/ea back around 2017, then a third can a year later for something over $100.

 

[smdk2500]

Yes, I seem to remember I bought two 30# cans of Johnsen's R134a from Sam's for less than $100 ea back around 2017, then a third can a year later for something over $100.

I got mine in 2020 i think. My work was selling it over the counter for 90 bucks + tax. I got it for cost + 10%. I think it came out to just over 80 bucks with tax. I have no idea what it is now. I know the refrigerant that I install in the reefers I work on is almost 30 a pound. 2 years ago it was 18. The new refrigerant that the units are using is like 50-60 a pound.