A/C compressor replacement

[PlayingWithTBI]

Did I get all this right?

Yep, that's it.

I assume OP is running R134a. Outta be using a new(er) condenser then too. If not... "replace it now" would seem to be the better action.

Agreed, get a parallel flow (4 pass) condenser. Should get an orifice tube ADO-15-5378 or comparable from a 99+ too. You can get by with the OE low pressure cycling switch or get one from an R134a system.

I bought this one 07/04/19 for my 88 but OP will have to confirm it'll fit his 89. YMMV

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And don't forget the accumulator/drier

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Yep, that's it.


Agreed, get a parallel flow (4 pass) condenser. Should get an orifice tube ADO-15-5378 or comparable from a 99+ too. You can get by with the OE low pressure cycling switch or get one from an R134a system.

I bought this one 07/04/19 for my 88 but OP will have to confirm it'll fit his 89. YMMV

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And don't forget the accumulator/drier

Flush and add PAG if not being used already (tho likely is, by now),

OP, are you on board with this?

 

[351FUN]

I'm tackling this project soon and not looking forward to it lol. Seems like there's always one more thing to learn.

 

[mountie]

it's been along time, but my '88 C2500 A/C compressor replacement.... I added a required ground wire to a stud on the intake. ( A good parts guy will show you ).....
I would suggest the NEW GM brand compressor. I can't remember the name, but you will find out.
I would not trust any other compressor !! And the line/fill valves will be updated easily.

 

[TCBRacer77]

I went through rock auto and got the “big” kit, replaced almost everything. Everything worked great except… they sent the wrong PAG oil, to be safe I’m going to have my system flushed and put in the right stuff. I guess a good habit is to double check everything in the kit before you spend the time haha. But I would recommend the kit. I believe mostly everything was UAC brand

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Wrong PAG? How bad is it?

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

I went through rock auto and got the “big” kit, replaced almost everything. Everything worked great except… they sent the wrong PAG oil, to be safe I’m going to have my system flushed and put in the right stuff. I guess a good habit is to double check everything in the kit before you spend the time haha. But I would recommend the kit. I believe mostly everything was UAC brand

UAC is ok-I run their 4440 compressor.

 

[351FUN]

So to revisit this, with the r4 compressor and 134 I need to change to the different pressure switch? Or are there different factors involved. And does it just go in the back of the compressor like the original one?

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I wonder what the diode to ground does?

It manages voltage spikes which occur when the clutch coil is de-energized. It’s called a flyback diode, Google it for more info.

It’s not a “diode to ground”, although the schematic pictured might give that impression. It’s “across the terminals of the clutch coil”.

So to revisit this, with the r4 compressor and 134 I need to change to the different pressure switch? Or are there different factors involved. And does it just go in the back of the compressor like the original one?

At least orifice tube and low pressure cycling switch (mounts on receiver / drier), new receiver / drier and, if vehicle still has old tube & fin condenser, a new parallel flow condenser.

The high pressure switch on the back of the compressor can be replaced with an original and/or modified as mentioned earlier in this thread to act as a high pressure cut-out.

Flush, too, all new O-rings and PAG. Some guys like me add dye. @Schurkey and I use Nylog Blue on the O-rings, I’ve used it on the fittings as an assembly lube.

Does that answer your question? Maybe it more than answers your question

 

[351FUN]

So the original style pressure switch is enough by itself? I think I'm not seeing why the newer one was brought up, and I don't want to damage a brand new system