'99 K1500 Suburban "Storm"

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Stepside_fever95

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Broke my PB last night with a 8.653 with no changes from last time. Suprised a cammed 5th gen Camaro as well!

I'm planning on doing the Astro knuckle swap this weekend with GMT900 brakes and cv axles. Looking foward to seeing what difference it makes in braking!
 

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Stepside_fever95

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Got the Astro knuckle and GMT900 brake swap done this past week. What a difference in stopping distance! Everything was bolt on with no modifications neccesary. I do highly reccomend getting an alignment afterwards as it threw my caster off and caused a death wobble.

I used stoptech stainless hoses for a 99-07 GMT800 with BLF-22C fittings, dust shields for the same truck, 03-05 Astro knuckles and wheel bearings, 07-13 GMT900 CV axles, calipers, rotors, and pads. Oem balljoints and tie rod ends were a direct fit.

I ended up replacing the pads and rotors I had for mockup/testing with Powerstop Z23 pads and Raybestos R-300 rotors. I also replaced the master cylinder due to the old one leaking into the booster. I'm still needing to re-bleed using the tech 2 from work to bleed my ABS module. Other than that, I'm very happy with the results!

Next is a set of K2500/K3500 forged lower control arms and Viking coilovers from Atomic Fab!
 

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Stepside_fever95

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I want to see the ins and outs of your experience with the brake swap. This is something I've long wanted to do, but the knuckles are rare at the pull and pay as is my attendance.
I ended up buying them off of ebay. Try to find a seller that has both sides from the same vehicle so it saves on shipping!
 

Stepside_fever95

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I see Mevotech TTX tie rod ends, who makes the beefy adjuster sleeve again? I like that your combo made it 100% bolt in, I think I seem to recall the original formula not quite being so with the axles
Jeremy Rogers with Cunningham Machine produces the sleeves. They're very nice. I'm also running their rag joint delete steering shaft that uses u joints instead. The route i took definitely beats reaming out knuckles for the ball joints and flipping tie rod ends using GMT800 knuckles.
 

Stepside_fever95

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Not a whole lot of updates. The Suburban has developed a ticking noise in or around the engine. I have unplugged each coil pack and injector while running, and the ticking still remains. It is not my headers or exhaust, as I have replaced the header gaskets, and can hear at each collector that the noise is coming from the engine.

I have pulled the valve covers, and inspected the rockers, springs, and pushrods, and everything seems tight. The noise is very audible underneath towards the rear of the engine, which makes me almost think a flexplate bolt is loose. But the noise is most audible from the drivers side when listening under the hood.

I went on about a 10 mile drive to listen closely to the noise, and noticed it does it around 1000-1600 rpm, and whenever you are decelerating as the rpms come down.

I'd hate to pull the heads to find out it isn't a lifter, but I may have to. Going to check the converter bolts tomorrow.
 
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