92 K2500 Revival

[Komet]

Parts ordered, summit was out of female inverted flare to male AN adapters that don't cost $20 each until next month so I got some brass inverted flare unions and some cheap male inverted flare to male AN adapters instead. Janky, but I've been running that setup on the IROC-Z for two years now so it'll be fine.

I chopped and flared my hardlines for the conversion, I was able to get the twist out of the radiator exit to aux cooler entry tube with some fire and pliers action. It's a bit ugly but not flow-compromised. If that doesn't work out I got an extra AN adapter and I can just run a soft line the whole way if I need to.

Upgraded the ground straps to the thick ones from the green truck, searched around for whatever plugs into the 4 prong 4wd actuator solenoid switch connector and I simply do not have this thing. I guess we'll see how necessary that is.

I decided to see what dropping the engine in might look like, and I hit sketch level 9 pretty fast. I don't think I'm getting the whole enchilada in by myself as it tilts down massively even with the load leveler maxed out to one side. I can't lift it over the front axle and push it back at the same time. Also the hood needs to come off I reckon. So, I'll likely be disconnecting the trans and installing that separately, little bit of lost work there but not too bad.

That was a bit of a bummer so I switched gears and busted out the pressure washer to clean the 1/8" thick coating of grease off the trans crossmember:

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Briefly comparing the crossmembers, they appear to be interchangeable. Green truck's is rustier, and has an extra little metal piece on there, maybe to shield the wiring? I cleaned up my armor panels too. That's the offroad part of the build, after all. Historically these panels are always getting in my way, but like, if armor panels exist, I'm gonna put them on. The other side of the front armor panel was painted black, less so now after being hit with the pressure washer set to kill. Would it be too obnoxious if I left it bare? I dunno. Maybe not more obnoxious than the color I picked for the truck.

 

[Komet]

Decoupled the engine and trans, got my hood off solo with towels and a board:

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Put the engine in, started having problems aligning the trans. It's listing to one side, probably due to an uneven surface that gets exacerbated by the weak scissor jack. Attempts to tilt it under the truck resulted in it almost slipping off the jack. I'm currently here:

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Gravel makes everything hard all the time.

 

[Komet]

Turns out I was very close last time after re-centering the trans. I looked at the time and had 15 minutes to get to work and I was still elbows deep in grease so I had to cut it short. Anyway, the trans seated the next morning and I've hooked up a bunch of little things since then.

Trans cooler hard lines are in, all electric connections going to the trans and transfer case are plugged in. There was a bracket on the trans that was going to interfere with the transfer case shift linkage and I didn't know what it did, so off it came. Surprise torx bolts facing up towards the cab, super annoying but I got it with a flex head ratchet.

Speaking of the transfer case shift linkage, mine has been extended 7" to accommodate the Cummins, so I'll be needing a stock one of those. Fortunately I haven't gone to the yard for the trans shift linkage so now I know I need both. Procrastination wins again!

Got the trans crossmember back in and all the mounts are torqued, so we have achieved the engine in milestone:

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I put the hood back on solo as well, the board of holding was key. The next step is a fuel system test, so I need to make my PTFE soft lines. I'd like to make a bracket to hold the chassis lines to the trans, but I can confirm a zip tie to the breather hose does put them in a good position:

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Measured up and assembled the feed line:

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I got this pressure testing kit but the volume of the tube is so small, it evacuates by the time you disconnect whatever is filling it. The m18 pump read 130psi before it errored, my best reading from a tire gauge after filling it with air from my pancake compressor was 23psi. I dunno, it seems good I guess.

 

[Komet]

Finished making the lines, installed them and final tightened all connections. For the pressure test, I didn't want to use the FiTech system to power the pump because I haven't hooked up really anything electrical yet, so I rigged up some test wires to an M12 battery that worked really well:

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Pump works, this is the first time I tested it. Probably not the best order to do things. I put 5 gallons of 92 in it and let it rip for 15-20 seconds. It pulled fuel easily and I heard the return line start returning, so I shut it off to go have a look under the hood:

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Forbidden summertime sprinkler party!

It was leaking at the rail to male NPT connection, so I tightened it up significantly, didn't loosen the AN line first and kinked it hard, then inspected the rest of the connections. Tank to line connections were dry, super minor weepage at the fuel filter in connection. Hard to tell any further up because it was all drenched.

I tightened up the fuel filter connection, unkinked the AN line, and went for Round 2. This time there was just a pinhole leak at the same spot on the fuel rail, so I tightened that more and I had no discernable leaks on Round 3. Fuel system held 43psi for a bit, then dropped to about 29 after 10 minutes. That seems like typical behavior for a TPI regulator, I've left the gauge on overnight and I'm hoping it will still have 20ish psi of residual pressure tomorrow. I believe that's about what the IROC-Z does.

If tomorrow's tests go well, then I can declare the fuel system complete and start mocking up final engine harness routing before the runners and plenum go on.

 

[Komet]

Tomorrow's tests didn't go well. Neither did the day after that. Or the day after that. Or the four days after that.

I tried tightening the fittings incrementally. They tended to hold for a while, but always failed the 24hr pressure test. I tightened the rear until the leaks got worse, then I pulled the fitting and practically all the Gasoila had been washed out of the threads. I bought a tiny tester size of it and it leaked some thin goo when I opened it, so maybe it separated funny and didn't seal right. I switched to Permatex Hi-Temp Thread Sealant and let it cure for 24hrs. The rear wasn't leaking, huge win!

I pulled the front plug, same story, almost no Gasoila. Put fresh thread sealant on that, let it cure for 24hrs. No leaks! Initially!

I let them both sit pressurized for 24hrs. This morning, I have weeping out of the rear fitting again. The return hardline flare to adapter is also leaking. I tightened it until the nut started rounding, it's down to a slow weep under pressure but it's not dry. The rusty stock fitting going into the fuel filter also weeps.

The fuel rails are my largest concern. I'm really bummed about it, I had a lot of investment in that solution and basically it's not going to work. I made some phonecalls, the first speed shop I called told me no, then maybe, and then they said they'd get back to me. The second speed shop I called told me they can't weld aluminum, but they gave me the number of a welding shop that could. I called them and explained what I needed, and they said they could weld my fitting to the rail, and weld a plug in my other rail. Their shop rate is $150/hr so it's not gonna be cheap, but sometimes you gotta solve your problems with money. I suppose the peace of mind will be worth it.

In the meantime I've partially routed the FiTech harness about as far as I can go right now, adapted the Vortec battery cables to top post, installed the starter, and attached all the necessary Vortec electrical connectors to the chassis harness. I think the only electrical connection I still need to make is the main power from starter to fuse block connection. I have a nice 4AWG red wire that's long enough, but I don't have any ring terminals big enough for it. I probably want a fusible link on the starter side of it as well.

 

[Komet]

Fuel rails are at the welding shop, they estimated 1 to 1.5 hours for the job which is fine, since it solves my problem.

I moved on to the oil cooler quick disconnect fittings. Apparently they aren't meant to be installed flush with the housing. I was getting close to where I thought it should be, and righty tighty became righty loosey:

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I took it as a sign from the speed gods that I wasn't meant to have an oil cooler setup. A quick overpriced trip to O'Reillys and I'm in the business:

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The delete kit is a Melling MFA350, 5/16"-18x1-1/4" bolts, and a WIX 57099. I reused the gasket I already had, and bolt torque spec is 18ft lbs.

Six less potential leak points, and a vertical spin on oil filter the way it's supposed to be. Done deal.

I bent around the PS cooler until I found a position for the filter that's only moderately terrible looking:

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Even reused the tiny scrap return line I had from the IROC-Z restoration. I picked a location for the FiTech controller to live:

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I don't smoke, and I'm thinking I can relocate the cigarette lighter wiring to that horrid gaping hole in the dash and convert it to a more useful USB power port. After routing the wiring, there's about 4+ft of extra cable length in the pocket where the ashtray was. The back side of the controller is smooth like a phone, so the plan is to attach a popsocket to the back of it, and then get a popsocket mount attached to an L shaped bracket mounted inside the ashtray cavity. Then I should have plenty of cable length to mess around with the controller in my lap, and then slide it back into the fixed mount for driving. My goal is to recess the controller into the ashtray housing so I can flip it up out of the direct sunlight on hot days. Most likely that will need some cutting, perhaps a project for after the truck is running.

 

[Komet]

Fuel rails are back, the shop had no problems with the job. I de-anodized the fitting with Easy Off HD oven cleaner (yellow bottle) first for them. They only charged me $150 for the whole deal and told me they'd be more than happy to pick up any other jobs I need done so that's always a good option to have:

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This was the flare giving me trouble, it must have been at the beginning of a bend where I cut it, you can see the the flat inner edge:

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I snipped that off the minimum amount and reflared with a fresh nut. The new one didn't have the inner flat spot and so far isn't leaking. I also dremel wire wheeled the fuel filter fitting and that's holding as well now. In fact, I can't find any leaks after repressurizing the system, but I'm very confused because my fuel pressure drops to 0 within 10 seconds of the pump being off. That's not unheard-of, considering the pump could lack an anti-drainback valve, but why would the behavior change between last time and now?

I'm hesitant to pinch off my elderly return line or disconnect any fittings as I seem to be leak free, after letting the pump run for a couple minutes. Regulated pressure is the same, 46psi is as low as this unit goes being fed by an m12 battery with no vacuum on the regulator.

I'm not sure what to make of it. I'll do another round of testing tomorrow. Fuel pump is now officially wired, I simply need to pull out my m12 test wire and connect the weatherpack connection to hook it up to the FiTech.

 

[GrimsterGMC]

Fuel rails are back, the shop had no problems with the job. I de-anodized the fitting with Easy Off HD oven cleaner (yellow bottle) first for them. They only charged me $150 for the whole deal and told me they'd be more than happy to pick up any other jobs I need done so that's always a good option to have:

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This was the flare giving me trouble, it must have been at the beginning of a bend where I cut it, you can see the the flat inner edge:

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I snipped that off the minimum amount and reflared with a fresh nut. The new one didn't have the inner flat spot and so far isn't leaking. I also dremel wire wheeled the fuel filter fitting and that's holding as well now. In fact, I can't find any leaks after repressurizing the system, but I'm very confused because my fuel pressure drops to 0 within 10 seconds of the pump being off. That's not unheard-of, considering the pump could lack an anti-drainback valve, but why would the behavior change between last time and now?

I'm hesitant to pinch off my elderly return line or disconnect any fittings as I seem to be leak free, after letting the pump run for a couple minutes. Regulated pressure is the same, 46psi is as low as this unit goes being fed by an m12 battery with no vacuum on the regulator.

I'm not sure what to make of it. I'll do another round of testing tomorrow. Fuel pump is now officially wired, I simply need to pull out my m12 test wire and connect the weatherpack connection to hook it up to the FiTech.

Be sure to pressure test it well for leaks as that weld is full of contamination. May well be okay but just check for any weeping where all the little holes are.

 

[Komet]

I pulled the plugs and the oil drain plug looking for leaked fuel, didn't find any. I let the pump run for 5ish minutes while turning the engine over by hand, all plug holes are dry. Physically felt for leaks all over the rails, at every possible location. No smells, no bubbly noises, no wetness of any kind found. Still 100% reproduction of the loss of pressure immediately after turning the pump off. Perhaps my used FPR is being weird. The pump is supposed to have an anti-drainback valve. I can feel fuel rushing through the return line.

I think I'm going to run with it. The pressure drop isn't necessarily a problem as long as it isn't dumping fuel into the engine, which it certainly seems not to be. Maybe it's always been like this and I bungled something last time.

I dropped the distributor in and moved on to mounting the coil and map sensor. I didn't really want to drill holes in the firewall in case I hit something, and I don't have rivnuts big enough for this application on hand. There were two unused 10mm bolts on the back of the firewall already, and I do still have extra 3/16" steel, so I fabbed up this ugly mount:

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Seems like a safe location for those pieces while being reasonably close to the stock locations for wiring purposes. The vacuum line needs to do a 90 and a 180 to get to its port but it's quite flexible so it should be ok.

 

[Komet]

Well a guy has been installing some parts:

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The secret to assembling a TPI setup is to snugly bolt the driver's side runners first, then loosely attach the passenger side runners. Connect the IAT plug to the plenum, then drop it in and hand tighten all remaining connections. Then slowly give each fastener a half turn as all the aluminum pieces flex together and squish the gaskets in. Final torque is only 10ft lbs and you want to sneak up on it. I usually end up touching every fastener 7-8 times but it's worth it for a leak free system.

The IAC connector is so close to the alternator I have to install it on the throttle body before it's bolted to the plenum, but it clears fine once installed. I had to disconnect the fuel feed line to get the driver's side runner on as well. Not quite as serviceable as I'd like but there is room for everything as-is and my goal of using the stock vortec accessory drive is looking like it's going to work. Plumbing the intake is going to be an unusual challenge. It will probably involve a nasty flow-limiting bend, but this isn't exactly a race car and it won't be much worse than what Pontiac had to do to get the TPI in the Firebirds.

I think I've got all the electrical dialed, I've got some heatshield stuff coming from Summit for things like the knock sensor, starter wire, and 4wd stuff as it gets a little too close to the manifolds for my liking. I chopped the tailpipe off the old exhaust and hung it with my muffler, seems like a straight shot from the y-pipe so hopefully that works out nicely. I need 5ft of extra piping to connect it all up, so I ordered 7.5ft and some clamps. I'm going to try clamping the system together first, if that leaks we'll bust out the welder but I figured I needed the clamps anyway to get my tack welds correct.

I don't have a TPI throttle bracket, and people on ebay want TWENTY DOLLARS for one, so I got to lookin real hard at that vortec bracket:

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The problem with that setup is the throttle blades go wide open before the pedal hits the floor. There was about 3/4" between that black plastic flared end and the square connector, and that corresponds directly with pedal position i.e. the pedal is all the way down when the flared end is nearly touching the square connector.

So, if I were to locate the bracket 3/4" forward, that would take up the slack and put the pedal on the floor when the throttle blades are full open:

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If it works, is it really a dumb idea?