It’s coming together! This is really cool
92 K2500 Revival
- Thread starter Komet
- Start date
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Komet
I'm Awesome
Doing some slog jobs today, wrapping up everything I can before parts arrive Thursday. Radiator had some bent fins:
A mere 4 Led Zeppelin albums later:
The Spicer 5-648X was a perfect fit to adapt my small bushing driveshaft to the large bushing yoke and whatever the rear diff input connector is called:
I see a lot of people take their driveshafts to shops for u-joint jobs, don't know why. Just press it in my dude, they slide right in there.
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A mere 4 Led Zeppelin albums later:
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The Spicer 5-648X was a perfect fit to adapt my small bushing driveshaft to the large bushing yoke and whatever the rear diff input connector is called:
You must be registered for see images attach
I see a lot of people take their driveshafts to shops for u-joint jobs, don't know why. Just press it in my dude, they slide right in there.
Komet
I'm Awesome
I took a trip to the closest junkyard yesterday. There was a 6.0 LS, a 454, and multiple L31s ripe for the picking there. If only I had a truck I could put a motor in the back of.
I was surprised the green truck was already gone. In fact, all the trucks I remember were gone, and I did not score a column shifter rod. There was a floor shift 4x4 truck there though, so I did score a transfer case shift rod for $3.50.
I had to destroy the grommet it sits in to remove it. No problem I think, I'll get another. Well, I'll have you know GM 15659238 Transfer Case Control Rod Insulator is vastly overpriced and somewhat difficult to acquire, but I scored a couple on ebay for three times the price of the rod.
And then of course I go to install it today and there it is, a perfectly usable 15659238 still on my truck. In any case, I have transfer case shiftalation.
I've been looming wires and installing parts:
The ignition and firewall wiring covers will come off again but it's fun to see them on. I'm really happy with how the coil placement turned out. I went over the FiTech install guide, it's all hooked up except for the o2 sensor and the accessory wires that tap into the speedometer, tachometer, and brake pedal. I'm fairly confident I've identified the wires I need to hook into and I think they're all in the glovebox area. I'm going to try and reuse the factory TCC disengage signal from the brake pedal, which makes sense since that's what the FiTech wants it for.
Belt seems an inch too long after the A/C delete pulley, tension is good but tensioner is maxed out. Oil dipstick is broken at the head, seems like a piece is missing. Don't know if it was like that or what. Long-term the accelerator cable pull needs a bushing so it's not metal on metal. I want a bracket for the fuel lines to relieve the tension on the fittings / lines. Fuel pressure behavior change still bothers me. Later me problems.
I was surprised the green truck was already gone. In fact, all the trucks I remember were gone, and I did not score a column shifter rod. There was a floor shift 4x4 truck there though, so I did score a transfer case shift rod for $3.50.
I had to destroy the grommet it sits in to remove it. No problem I think, I'll get another. Well, I'll have you know GM 15659238 Transfer Case Control Rod Insulator is vastly overpriced and somewhat difficult to acquire, but I scored a couple on ebay for three times the price of the rod.
And then of course I go to install it today and there it is, a perfectly usable 15659238 still on my truck. In any case, I have transfer case shiftalation.
I've been looming wires and installing parts:
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The ignition and firewall wiring covers will come off again but it's fun to see them on. I'm really happy with how the coil placement turned out. I went over the FiTech install guide, it's all hooked up except for the o2 sensor and the accessory wires that tap into the speedometer, tachometer, and brake pedal. I'm fairly confident I've identified the wires I need to hook into and I think they're all in the glovebox area. I'm going to try and reuse the factory TCC disengage signal from the brake pedal, which makes sense since that's what the FiTech wants it for.
Belt seems an inch too long after the A/C delete pulley, tension is good but tensioner is maxed out. Oil dipstick is broken at the head, seems like a piece is missing. Don't know if it was like that or what. Long-term the accelerator cable pull needs a bushing so it's not metal on metal. I want a bracket for the fuel lines to relieve the tension on the fittings / lines. Fuel pressure behavior change still bothers me. Later me problems.
"A mere 4 Led Zeppelin albums later..."
EXACTLY. This might even be considered an official time increment when it comes to
bringing an engine bay (and all the goodies inside) back to new condition. LOL!
:0)
Nice work & detailed description. And that TPI setup is going to be aces in
terms of torque production for your truck -- that is going to be a great
driver!
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Komet
I'm Awesome
Did some light duty work today, but it was time to empty out the cab so I could find all my remaining parts. The vortec air box has another side box thing that interfered with my pull out light, so the side box had to go:
I'll plug that hole later. It's pre-filter, so not really a big deal. I did some basic fitting, and it will be possible to go from oval TPI to 3.5" round, and then use at least a 90 degree bend up over the alternator and still close the hood:
Then, I can simply connect the stock vortec box to the elbow with some flexy hose.
The windshield washer reservoir that came with the truck was terribly half-spraypainted:
I couldn't handle it. Some acetone later:
Finally, I started the fitment of the sweet under hood toolbox:
The lower panel has no holes that align with my fender. I'm going to see if it bolts up to the front cross support thing and then choose my locations to drill.
Funny story about that box, I found it with my buddy at the junkyard like 5 years ago, and I helped pull it for his truck long before I wanted a gmt400. I thought it was the coolest accessory ever, so obviously it must go in this truck.
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I'll plug that hole later. It's pre-filter, so not really a big deal. I did some basic fitting, and it will be possible to go from oval TPI to 3.5" round, and then use at least a 90 degree bend up over the alternator and still close the hood:
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Then, I can simply connect the stock vortec box to the elbow with some flexy hose.
The windshield washer reservoir that came with the truck was terribly half-spraypainted:
You must be registered for see images attach
I couldn't handle it. Some acetone later:
You must be registered for see images attach
Finally, I started the fitment of the sweet under hood toolbox:
You must be registered for see images attach
The lower panel has no holes that align with my fender. I'm going to see if it bolts up to the front cross support thing and then choose my locations to drill.
Funny story about that box, I found it with my buddy at the junkyard like 5 years ago, and I helped pull it for his truck long before I wanted a gmt400. I thought it was the coolest accessory ever, so obviously it must go in this truck.
Komet
I'm Awesome
Spent the day fitting the exhaust. Overall the operation went really well for just guessing and ordering some stuff off Summit. I started with a butt clamp between the straight tube and the y-pipe:
I think this connection is going to leak; there's not enough there to really seal and it's going to take the full fury of 8 hot cylinders. Luckily I have those weld-on flanges.
This is my problem area:
The pipe rests on the torsion bar crossmember. I bought 2 extra hangers to replace the 1 that was deleted with the previous exhaust setup, so the plan is to strategically mount a hanger to alleviate the droop at this location.
Next I have a lap clamp to combine the straight section to the glasspack:
That gap sure seems large, I might need to finesse the muffler flange or something. That is also the hanger I'd like to attach to on the left. I'm hoping this seals ok in the end because it's a very convenient location to separate the pieces.
I bought another lap clamp for the back side of the muffler, but it won't work because the hanger is too close:
I had to bend both of those hangers but the overall fitment is surprisingly good. I think I can use a u-bolt style clamp here and be ok.
Tailpipe location ended up being pretty good:
I can live with that. With a few tweaks, I think this setup should be good enough to try out.
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I think this connection is going to leak; there's not enough there to really seal and it's going to take the full fury of 8 hot cylinders. Luckily I have those weld-on flanges.
This is my problem area:
You must be registered for see images attach
The pipe rests on the torsion bar crossmember. I bought 2 extra hangers to replace the 1 that was deleted with the previous exhaust setup, so the plan is to strategically mount a hanger to alleviate the droop at this location.
Next I have a lap clamp to combine the straight section to the glasspack:
You must be registered for see images attach
That gap sure seems large, I might need to finesse the muffler flange or something. That is also the hanger I'd like to attach to on the left. I'm hoping this seals ok in the end because it's a very convenient location to separate the pieces.
I bought another lap clamp for the back side of the muffler, but it won't work because the hanger is too close:
You must be registered for see images attach
I had to bend both of those hangers but the overall fitment is surprisingly good. I think I can use a u-bolt style clamp here and be ok.
Tailpipe location ended up being pretty good:
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I can live with that. With a few tweaks, I think this setup should be good enough to try out.
Komet
I'm Awesome
Exhaust has been adjusted and just barely isn't touching the crossmember. I mistakenly thought I could get away with not prepping the surfaces to weld the exhaust hanger on which got real ugly and then functional but still ugly after I cleaned up the surface post-tack. But hey, I welded and it helded.
Reused the vortec brake booster hose, it was a little loose on the TPI side but I set the hose clamp to 90 ft lbs so no worries there.
Took a trip up north to the bigger junkyard, they had at least 20 gmt400s. Every style you want, very many blue interiors. Only one 92-94 in grey but it had the sill panel I needed:
I scored many other little fun things I was missing. Found two different flavors of shift linkage rods, so I grabbed both. I think my trans cooler is a factory external oil cooler, those joined angular brackets were holding what appeared to be my same cooler to a truck at the yard so I'm hoping those bolt right up and it's one less thing I have to modify. Also grabbed that random intake tube, it's the same diameter as the vortec stuff so if nothing else I can use the straight part to get from over the alternator to the airbox bend.
I hauled all this stuff to the register and the lady told me it was all old junk and asked me what it was for. I told her it was gmt400 stuff since it came off several years, she said oh ok I got you, and rang me up for just five things. Works for me!
Reused the vortec brake booster hose, it was a little loose on the TPI side but I set the hose clamp to 90 ft lbs so no worries there.
Took a trip up north to the bigger junkyard, they had at least 20 gmt400s. Every style you want, very many blue interiors. Only one 92-94 in grey but it had the sill panel I needed:
You must be registered for see images attach
I scored many other little fun things I was missing. Found two different flavors of shift linkage rods, so I grabbed both. I think my trans cooler is a factory external oil cooler, those joined angular brackets were holding what appeared to be my same cooler to a truck at the yard so I'm hoping those bolt right up and it's one less thing I have to modify. Also grabbed that random intake tube, it's the same diameter as the vortec stuff so if nothing else I can use the straight part to get from over the alternator to the airbox bend.
I hauled all this stuff to the register and the lady told me it was all old junk and asked me what it was for. I told her it was gmt400 stuff since it came off several years, she said oh ok I got you, and rang me up for just five things. Works for me!
Komet
I'm Awesome
Shift linkage works good:
I had to remove the NSS from the outside of the transmission but I'm pretty sure this truck has one in the column or somewhere else so I don't think that was needed. The indicator in the instrument cluster is off, but it goes into every gear and feels normal.
I have done lots of little jobs, zipties here and there, finished up the main chassis power and starter wires with heatshield:
Two of the nuts on my Taiwan center support broke off during disassembly, so I welded some new nuts on:
Hit that with some paint and rust converter. I confirmed the brackets I found are a direct fit to the trans cooler, and the holes are already threaded in the support so that is prepped for reassembly now.
Whew, getting nervous I forgot something but I've gone over everything a couple times now.
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I had to remove the NSS from the outside of the transmission but I'm pretty sure this truck has one in the column or somewhere else so I don't think that was needed. The indicator in the instrument cluster is off, but it goes into every gear and feels normal.
I have done lots of little jobs, zipties here and there, finished up the main chassis power and starter wires with heatshield:
You must be registered for see images attach
Two of the nuts on my Taiwan center support broke off during disassembly, so I welded some new nuts on:
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Hit that with some paint and rust converter. I confirmed the brackets I found are a direct fit to the trans cooler, and the holes are already threaded in the support so that is prepped for reassembly now.
Whew, getting nervous I forgot something but I've gone over everything a couple times now.
Komet
I'm Awesome
I always forget what it's called, but I think the official term is core support. Anyhow, the core support has been installed:
It needed some bending and tweaking to get the bolts to line up. It was a slow process of figuring out what bolts I could install, and why others couldn't be installed. Eventually as more bolts went in, others became closer to where they were supposed to be.
Radiator fits, stock vortec water hoses fit, trans cooler fits in stock location with stock brackets, I have the fittings I need to complete the cooler lines and they fit over my front armor panel.
I didn't initially want to bolt it down in case I needed to remove it, but I needed to drill those holes in the fender liner to attach the support wall for the underhood toolbox, so I needed fully installed locations for that. The bend of the fender liner didn't match the bend of the support wall, but I tightened it slowly by hand and it conformed itself together nicely.
I did a loose front end mockup to ensure the trans cooler fits:
Everything is looking good fitment-wise.
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It needed some bending and tweaking to get the bolts to line up. It was a slow process of figuring out what bolts I could install, and why others couldn't be installed. Eventually as more bolts went in, others became closer to where they were supposed to be.
Radiator fits, stock vortec water hoses fit, trans cooler fits in stock location with stock brackets, I have the fittings I need to complete the cooler lines and they fit over my front armor panel.
I didn't initially want to bolt it down in case I needed to remove it, but I needed to drill those holes in the fender liner to attach the support wall for the underhood toolbox, so I needed fully installed locations for that. The bend of the fender liner didn't match the bend of the support wall, but I tightened it slowly by hand and it conformed itself together nicely.
I did a loose front end mockup to ensure the trans cooler fits:
You must be registered for see images attach
Everything is looking good fitment-wise.
Komet
I'm Awesome
Got the loose ends put together this morning, filled all fluids except coolant, and hooked up the battery. No weirdness or smoke, so I went through the FiTech initial setup and turned the key.
It cranked for 3-4 seconds, and barked to life with great oil pressure and it was charging. For the life of me, I can't get power steering fills right. I filled it halfway to full hot, cycled the wheel 20ish times, and it still drained the reservoir and was howling, so I shut it off quick and refilled it a couple times until it stopped whining. After those quick runs I had some minor leaks so I tightened those and things looked good so I filled it with coolant. Fired it back up, and took this video:
It runs really great, we let it heat up and the temp gauge normalized after the thermostat opened. Trans goes forwards and back. Brakes work. I lost power to the hvac module and the equalizer lost power. Fuel gauge was coming in and out.
I got an oil leak at the oil pressure sender, or the 90 adapter fitting. I did a bad job on the AN hose end that attaches to the trans cooler, it's leaking, need to redo that. I think those are my only two outstanding leaks left. Glasspack sounds really good, it's not super loud.
Got all my engine wiring right on the first attempt, wild.
It cranked for 3-4 seconds, and barked to life with great oil pressure and it was charging. For the life of me, I can't get power steering fills right. I filled it halfway to full hot, cycled the wheel 20ish times, and it still drained the reservoir and was howling, so I shut it off quick and refilled it a couple times until it stopped whining. After those quick runs I had some minor leaks so I tightened those and things looked good so I filled it with coolant. Fired it back up, and took this video:
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It runs really great, we let it heat up and the temp gauge normalized after the thermostat opened. Trans goes forwards and back. Brakes work. I lost power to the hvac module and the equalizer lost power. Fuel gauge was coming in and out.
I got an oil leak at the oil pressure sender, or the 90 adapter fitting. I did a bad job on the AN hose end that attaches to the trans cooler, it's leaking, need to redo that. I think those are my only two outstanding leaks left. Glasspack sounds really good, it's not super loud.
Got all my engine wiring right on the first attempt, wild.
