Always, always, always blueprint your engine, especially if you involve a machine shop. I was setting the gap on the rings for the low-buck rebuild of WCJr's original engine. Instead of the desired .016-.028" gap, I was getting .023-.032" gaps. Kinda weird, so I got out my calipers. My .030" over block is actually .040" over. Ugh. Fortunately the machine shop uses Sealed Power pistons for a lot of their builds, so hopefully they'll be willing to swap me. The whole point of building this engine is to use up my stock of extra parts, not to buy even more. Then I realized I'm short a few gaskets of building the engine, and a whole gasket set was cheaper than those gaskets. Doh!
The Chickasha Swap Meet is next week, and I'm planning on going just to see what it's like. I'm interested in what I can score for a cheap intake. I'm hoping for an Edelbrock C3B with a front oil filler tube.
I was torquing the main caps the other day, and one of them seated, but as I turned the torque wrench, it didn't tighten up. Uh oh. I stopped and pulled it out. I was reusing the stock main bolts, but the water damage wasn't limited to the head, one of the bolts is partially eaten through. Do I spend $20 on a set of no-name bolts from Summit, or do I nab some treasure yard bolts while I'm at Pull-A-Part looking for a rebuildable 193 head? Yeah, you know me. I think I'm also going to nab the remote filter setup from a Suburban so I can run an oil cooler on WCJr some day.
Speaking of heads, I practiced my porting on the head with the rusted out valve seat and realized it's not yet within my skill level to open up the combustion chamber around the intake valve. I tend to dig down into the head. I went ahead and ported the good head, just cleaning up the casting and a few other tweaks, and I think it looks decent. I shot it and the timing cover with some engine primer and gold VHT engine paint.