5th wheel 1500

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Shorty01GMC

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who has installed and pulled a 5er in a half ton? I have 97 ecsb k1500, 14sf 3.73, new dual core rad, high miles, shifts great, crate motor with 90k ive pulled 18/20' trailer with cars, scrap, around 5k lbs. dry weight on 5er is 5800, will not carry any water mostly empty other than some cloths. I have a reese 20k slider I picked up on craigslist, brake box and 7 pole wiring installing hitch tomorrow. I would like to have a tru cool 40k like I had in my nbs but cant get one installed for a bit.. truck also has new brakes and is up to date mechanically with e range bfg tires... just looking for any input on mounting hitch andn pulling a 5er vs bumper pull. ive hauled plenty of trailers.. heaviest being a bobcat but it wasn't far...
 

Shorty01GMC

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also does anyone know of any easy/cheap airbag helper spring mods??
 

SkyHighColorado

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You tslkin goose neck like this or actual 5th wheel. I don't think s 1500 can handle a 5th wheel.
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SCOTTYINWV

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I would say it's a goose neck, yes a 1500 tan handle a gooseneck ball. Just don over do it on the weight... :deal:
 

Shorty01GMC

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that is a gooseneck you have a pic of.... it will be a 5th wheel as title state... I guess it will be as easy as a bumper pull, was just looking for anyone with one installed. will be pulling a 27' double axle 5er weighing 5800#s...
 

poncho62

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I pull a 25ft 5th wheel with my 97....trailer weighs about 5000#.....I wouldnt want to go a whole lot bigger than that.
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great white

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What you have to look at is the trailer pin weight, the RAWR and the GVWR. There is also a max trailer weigh rating in the owners manual that gives the weight for truck, axle and engine combinations.

If you're over any of those, you're not legal.

Pin weight you can play with a bit by loading, although 5th wheels don't react as well to shifting the load as bumper pulls.

Notice I said "legal", not that you couldn't get it rolling.

You can drag anything with anything really.

The real issues are safety and speed. Primarily: getting up to speed, stability when the trailer try's to "wag the dog" and getting the damned thing stopped.

Personally, I don't like towing anything over a heavy utility trailer with less than a 2500. I'd much rather the truck behave like the trailer is not back there than wondering if I can make that merge, climb that mountain or stop before I turn that hatchback into a 2 seater. My 2500 is pretty much right at the rating with our 8500 lb travel trailer.

It pulls it and it does the job fine enough but you know you're not putting any more weight back there without issues.

But that's just my personal preference.....I hate white knuckles.

:)
 
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great white

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I did a quick dig through some info on the 97's and here's what i came up with for ya:

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As always, you need to consult the door placard and owners manual for the actual numbers for your truck.

But by the dealer info, it mostly looks like you are within the limits with the numbers you've given for your particular trailer.

However; be aware that a manufacturer's "dry weight" is seldom accurate when it comes to trailers. Depending on who built it, dry weight can be very deceptive. Some give a base weight for the trailer and then start adding options like stoves and fridges. Most often, no furniture (IE: tables, chairs, mattresses, etc) and all the fittings/furnishings are the base options (IE: lighter than the fancy stuff). Some of them even give the dry weight before the slides are installed. You can for sure count on dry weight not including things like propane tanks, batteries or any liquid of any sort.

You can usually chuck at least another 500 lbs on any claimed dry weight right from the get go. Then start loading food, clothes, blankets, lawn chairs, hoses, etc. The only real way to know your weights and distribution is to haul it to the scales.

That chart is not "gospel" either. There are frequent errors in the dealer info kits and differences depending on how the truck is equipped. You have to go by the placard on the truck for the actual rated weights.

:)
 
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