1999 Tahoe system

[df2x4]

Granted I'm guessing the factory amp on the other 2 speakers is probably about the same?

Yup, should be.

I'm also debating the 3 way speakers with 2 way in the rear doors instead. I was reading the 2 way can provide cleaner sound since the tweeter is in the center of the cone where as the 3 way obstructs the cone more

Personally the only way I'd run three way speakers in any vehicle is if we're talking about component sets with a separate midbass driver. A decent two way should be just fine in all locations.

 

[big_mike]

Well those 6.5" fronts I listed are a full component set. That's why I'm debating the rear doors but I'm starting to lean more towards the 2 way for the mids and leaving the 5.25's in the rear a 3 way for better sound when we are back there at the drive-in watching movies.

 

[big_mike]

I wonder if I could use the 6.5" driver from the 1606c set without the tweeter/crossover as just a 2 way mid bass?? It would be pretty cost effective honestly and then I'd have a extra set of tweeters/crossovers laying around incase my front components needed replaced.

Anyone ever done this?? That would give all 4 doors identical 4ohm 2 way drivers.

And I could run everything off the Pioneer GM-D8604 amp, components on one channel and the rear doors and cargos on the other. That amp is 2 ohm stable, so in parallel they should be fine and get plenty of juice.

 

[df2x4]

I wonder if I could use the 6.5" driver from the 1606c set without the tweeter/crossover as just a 2 way mid bass??

Not if you want anything close to full range sound. The 1606Cs are a two way component system as they come... If you take the tweeter away you get a one way with no high frequency output.

Two way or three way simply refers to the number of drivers in a full range speaker set. Which is why I recommended against three ways earlier. You really don't need the extra separation, and it can introduce phasing issues. Probably won't with all the drivers contained in the same basket, but it's just unnecessary.

 

[df2x4]

And I could run everything off the Pioneer GM-D8604 amp, components on one channel and the rear doors and cargos on the other. That amp is 2 ohm stable, so in parallel they should be fine and get plenty of juice.

I would not do this either. That means you'll be running the middle and rear speakers bridged and have zero adjustment over them individually. Like I said earlier, if you're set on amping everything I'd definitely run a six channel.

 

[big_mike]

From the parallel wiring I saw they would not be bridged. I would just have 2 positive and 2 negative speaker connections on the channel instead of 1 and the dual 4 ohm would turn into 2 ohm. The amp specs shows 1 ohm stable so 2 ohm should still be plenty safe on the amp itself. The 4 rears on that channel would just adjust together with the gain and filter for that channel right?

I got confused last night reading and thought those 1606c drivers were a 2 way by themselves with the tweeter and crossover added to make the full component set. I assumed they would operate as a regular 2 way mid bass without the tweeter.

They have a 6.5" 2 way in the TS-G that is a 250w 4 ohm option.

 

[df2x4]

The 4 rears on that channel would just adjust together with the gain and filter for that channel right?

Correct, but if you're going for the best sound quality possible then this isn't really advisable IMO. The 5.25s you're planning on using for the rear (I still say go with a 4x10, you will regret having to tarp off your interior to bust out the grinder) aren't going to behave the same as the 6.5s in the back doors. Their frequency response and power handling is going to be different. You'll be giving up some of the benefits to be gained by amping them in the first place. A six channel with built in filters would be the best solution IMO, then you could run a full range signal from the head unit to that amp and adjust each set of speakers independently.

EDIT - Another thing to consider about running two sets of speakers in parallel on two channels like you described... That would imply two out of four channels on your four channel amp would be seeing a four ohm load, and the other two would be seeing two ohms. I'm not sure if that specific Pioneer amplifier is capable of running that way, but I've come across a few four channels over the years that will not.

 

[big_mike]

Hmmmmmm, decisions, lol. It would be so much easier if I was one of those guys who just buys stuff and slaps it together without a care in the world, lol.

 

[df2x4]

I know the feeling.

If you want some help picking stuff out let me know, I can build you a parts list for either amped or non-amped. I still would go for non-amped personally. Lots easier and cheaper for not much worse of a result.

 

[big_mike]

I know it would be easier, but my last system in my Trans Am was fully amped, Crossfire components in doors, mid basses in rear on a Crossfire amp and single 10" Pioneer sub in the hatch on a Zapco amp in a stealth box so I still had t-top storage. And I absolutely loved it. Not sure I could put the effort of a full system in and not amp it, lol. Feel like I'd be disappointed and end up going back in to add a amp.