1997 5.7L Direct Drive or Gear Reduction starter

[Schurkey]

^^^ What he said.

Mini-starters need metric-shank bolts, but the threads in the block are SAE 3/8-16. The bolts have a step between the larger shank and the smaller threaded area.
Photo 1. Genuine GM and aftermarket ARP mini-starter bolts. http://hbassociates.us/Delco_PG260_Bolts_01.jpg

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Photo 2. GM bolts having stepped knurl to locate the starter housing to the block. http://hbassociates.us/Delco_PG260_Bolts_02.jpg

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The GM bolts are not horribly expensive. ARP mini-starter bolts are actually not as nice, and double or triple the price of the GM stuff.

GM put heat shields on the mini-starter solenoids and the big starters solenoids for a reason. Make certain that the starter has a heat shield on it when you put it back in. Some of those heat shields also protect the knock sensor wire harness from exhaust heat, too.

My '97 needed wire-harness surgery. The "purple" (fades to pink over time) wire that goes to the "S" terminal had terrible corrosion on the lowest ~18 inches. I had to splice in fresh wire to get enough power to the "S" terminal for the starter to work right.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

^^^ What he said.

Mini-starters need metric-shank bolts, but the threads in the block are SAE 3/8-16. The bolts have a step between the larger shank and the smaller threaded area.
Photo 1. Make certain that the starter has a heat shield on it when you put it back in. Some of those heat shields also protect the knock sensor wire harness from exhaust heat, too.

My '97 needed wire-harness surgery. The "purple" (fades to pink over time) wire that goes to the "S" terminal had terrible corrosion on the lowest ~18 inches. I had to splice in fresh wire to get enough power to the "S" terminal for the starter to work right.

What if you dont have the heat shield anymore. what are the options?

 

[jaywestfall]

I put one of these on my 1998 C1500 5.7 about 2.5 years ago. No problems. $140 at Summit at the time, and it is gear reduction.

https://www.proformparts.com/produc...tion-type-high-compression-chevy-v8-168-tooth

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

What if you dont have the heat shield anymore. what are the options?

Don't know for sure if it's available from GM or aftermarket. I'd look at the wrecking yard next time you go. I'm putting that part on my yard list; not sure where the one for my Burb is in the mess of my shop.....
Edit: Schurkey is 100% right on the bolts. They are different for the different types of starter. And if improperly tightened or the wrong bolts are used, they'll bend. Or even break off in the block, or crack/break the starter mounting surface of the block. Worked on a few trucks that this happened to.....

 

[Ben Burrage]

Gear reduction, without a doubt! Easier to install, faster and quieter... Worth every penny.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

What if you dont have the heat shield anymore. what are the options?

I haven't tried this but I saw where others have and with good results.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010402

 

[454cid]

I bought a new OEM heatshield from Rockauto, and it matched my original exactly. Unfortunately, it didn't fit the new AC Delco Professional starter. I've been running without it, but I don't live in the heat of TX or AZ.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

I haven't tried this but I saw where others have and with good results.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010402

I was thinking that. My original one long gone by now. Its possible its buried in my dads garage... gonna try to jack some at the yard like @HotWheelsBurban mentioned. Otherwise I may try that jacket. Just didnt know if they work lol or the quality

 

[lumpdog602]

1997 C1500 called for direct drive.
1999 K1500 Suburban called for PMGR.
Both were AC Delco from Amazon with no core charges.

 

[Schurkey]

Starter "wraps" or "blankets" will be as good at keeping heat IN the starter as they are at keeping heat OFF the starter.

GM and I prefer a metal heat-shield with an air gap to the starter, so that the starter cools normally, but is protected from exhaust heat.