1997 5.7L Direct Drive or Gear Reduction starter

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denhamt1983

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Pretty much just trying to find out which style starter it SHOULD have before I order the thing. Know the kid I bought it from had replaced it 3 times in the last 5 years, latest one burnt up after 1700 mile trip, guess the heat was too much. Dont know which style it currently has either, will try to look and see after I get home. Also what is needed to upgrade to the gear reduction style, and what are the pros? Are they more resistant to burning up from heat? Thanks!
 

RawbDidIt

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Pretty much just trying to find out which style starter it SHOULD have before I order the thing. Know the kid I bought it from had replaced it 3 times in the last 5 years, latest one burnt up after 1700 mile trip, guess the heat was too much. Dont know which style it currently has either, will try to look and see after I get home. Also what is needed to upgrade to the gear reduction style, and what are the pros? Are they more resistant to burning up from heat? Thanks!
Gear reduction all the way. Smaller unit, less susceptible to heat and resulting failure, more efficient. Only downside is they're slightly more expensive. No additional work to upgrade, it's a bolt on if you order the right one.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
 

HotWheelsBurban

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I've had 2 99 Burbs, both 5.7 vortecs. Had to change the starter frequently on the second (current)one, because of a flywheel problem. Pulled the starter off the other Burb and took it apart, hoping to swap the drive end housing. Then I found out that the first Burb had a factory style gear reduction starter, and the one I was trying to fix was the standard type. The internal parts don't interchange, but the starters themselves are interchangeable as long as the bolt spacing and nose cone length are the same. But that part is pretty much true on the older GM starters too.
The vortecs are prone to backfiring and crossfiring if the distributor cap and/or rotor get carbon tracking in them. Guess it happens on TBI engines too, but the only one I have had didn't have that issue. That's what initially happened on my current Burb, before I got it. By the time I got it in early 2013, the starter drive and flywheel had damaged teeth. If it landed on the bad spot, you'd have to bump-crank it to get it to start. We didn't drive it a lot, so just an inconvenience then.
Finally in 2016, after replacing 3 starters in as many weeks, I found a mechanic that was willing to tackle the problem. By this time, the truck had brake problems too. He replaced the flywheel, and the master cylinder and both rear wheel cylinders. After that, started and stopped like it should! Since then, I've put a Blue Streak rotor and an Accel cap, both with brass contacts. Haven't had any more trouble with carbon tracking.
Haven't personally had experience with aftermarket gear reduction starters, but I know people like them for the older trucks that have the big starter. The vortec style is a lot lighter, which is good when you have to R&R it much!
 

SUBURBAN5

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I've had 2 99 Burbs, both 5.7 vortecs. Had to change the starter frequently on the second (current)one, because of a flywheel problem. Pulled the starter off the other Burb and took it apart, hoping to swap the drive end housing. Then I found out that the first Burb had a factory style gear reduction starter, and the one I was trying to fix was the standard type. The internal parts don't interchange, but the starters themselves are interchangeable as long as the bolt spacing and nose cone length are the same. But that part is pretty much true on the older GM starters too.
The vortecs are prone to backfiring and crossfiring if the distributor cap and/or rotor get carbon tracking in them. Guess it happens on TBI engines too, but the only one I have had didn't have that issue. That's what initially happened on my current Burb, before I got it. By the time I got it in early 2013, the starter drive and flywheel had damaged teeth. If it landed on the bad spot, you'd have to bump-crank it to get it to start. We didn't drive it a lot, so just an inconvenience then.
Finally in 2016, after replacing 3 starters in as many weeks, I found a mechanic that was willing to tackle the problem. By this time, the truck had brake problems too. He replaced the flywheel, and the master cylinder and both rear wheel cylinders. After that, started and stopped like it should! Since then, I've put a Blue Streak rotor and an Accel cap, both with brass contacts. Haven't had any more trouble with carbon tracking.
Haven't personally had experience with aftermarket gear reduction starters, but I know people like them for the older trucks that have the big starter. The vortec style is a lot lighter, which is good when you have to R&R it much!

I didnt know that about the starters. Mine has the big fat heavy one
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Big boy will fit, but in my experience there's not much room to work even with the small starter. So big one will be rather tight space wise.
After having to replace the starter on the Burb multiple times, I came up with a way of getting under the truck so I could have better access to everything, but it's still working in a confined space....I've read about people connecting the wires up before stabbing the starter. Guess that would work if your cable and wires have enough slack. The greater concern for me was the 2 wires and terminals not touching and not being in a bind.
 

SUBURBAN5

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Big boy will fit, but in my experience there's not much room to work even with the small starter. So big one will be rather tight space wise.
After having to replace the starter on the Burb multiple times, I came up with a way of getting under the truck so I could have better access to everything, but it's still working in a confined space....I've read about people connecting the wires up before stabbing the starter. Guess that would work if your cable and wires have enough slack. The greater concern for me was the 2 wires and terminals not touching and not being in a bind.

From what I remember it was a pain but I tightened the solenoid wires first and pushed it up and then ran the bolts. I think is the trick is to tighten the wires where it will sit at final resting point. If there's flipped or crooked. May not go in lol
 

TheAutumnWind

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I have fond memories of swapping starters in parking lots on my TPI IROC way back in the day due to headers cooking the lifetime warranty parts store starters over and over again until I went with a gear redux unit with heatshields... worth the few extra bucks to get a good one. Upgrade the wiring while you are in there.
 
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