1995 c3500 lift

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Got the axle housing, backing plates, leaf springs all cleaned up and Painted . Will install polys in leafs and hang them next.

 

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I got the frame wire wheeled, cleaned, and painted. Torched out the old worn out rubber bushings, greased up and installed the polys. Hung the leafs

 

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Decided to rebuild the rear brakes. I had to debur the grooves off the backing plates. I put new wagner shoes, wheel cylinders, spring kit. The last person to previously install shoes on this installed both primary shoes on drivers side and secondary shoes on other side. These chevy trucks use dual servo type brakes on the rear. The primary shoe (skinnier shoe) faces the front, and the secondary shoe (thick shoe) goes towards the rear. Ive had this truck for about 7 months and the brakes were never really good feeling.

 

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The new motive 4.10 gear set and timkin bearing kit from summit arrived. I inspected and measured the clutches in the posi traction and decided that they would run due to the lack of wear.

 

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Got the brakes on and the axle in with the 2" lift blocks. Got to adjust the brakes and bleed hoses.

 

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After installing and adjusting the rear brake I discovered the passenger side brakes would bind bad in the forward position and free wheel in reverse. I removed drums and inspected and found shoes were not contacting backing plate on all the slides. When I first disassembled them they were grooved pretty badly so I ground out the grooves not realizing the contact issue. I ordered both backing plates from rock auto. Also discovered park brake cable stretched and maxed out on adjustment. So much for saving money on the brakes. Managed to get the cables and plates really quick. I installed them and readjusted them at break neck speeds. What a difference that made. adjusted like new ones should no more binding and lots of p brake adjustment.

 

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After the feasaco with the brakes I finally got to put on my new aluminum diff cover. Holds a gallon of 80-90 gear oil. I checked operation in forward and reverse . No noises and brakes feel great .
Installed my new rancho rs5000 shocks. Installed the tires and 2" wheel spacers.

 

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After putting on both duals with spacers I noticed allot of imbalance in outer duals. Upon further inspection I realized the wheel spacers I bought are the wrong set up. Apparently I bought lug centric spacers when I needed hub centric spacers. After some research here on the forums I found motorsport tech sells some of the best spacers. When I contacted them I spoke with the owner and he was super helpful and knew exactly what my problem was, they machine all there spacers in house and engrave your order number in each spacer for your life time warranty. He said 10 buisness
Days to build them so I bought a set of 2" steel spacers. In the mean time I decided to remove the tranny and rebuild it, at close to 300,000 miles I don't trust it even though it's still operating good. The tranny oil is burnt black, and I would rather rebuild it on my terms instead of its.

 

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No rest for the wicked! I took the tranny apart and only real wear I found was on the input shaft splines and some bushings. Can still read the borg warner ink on the friction discs. Not to bad for having the miles this truck has. I'll get everything cleaned up and inspected a little better tommorow. BTW unless you build these often it's a must to have a clean work space so you can lay parts out in a orderly fashion. This is not a job you want to gut shoot and walk away from for weeks and months.

 

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After some research I decided to go with the monster transmission rebuild kit with kevlar friction discs, shift improvement kit, and heavy duty torque converter. It is a complete kit with high quality parts. I ordered a new hardened TCI input shaft from summit. While I am waiting for my parts from monster and phase 10 of my bank account depletion I figured I would take care of the oil pan gasket leak that has drove me nuts since I purchased it. I'll change the rear main seal, the pan gasket, and do some investigating while I have the pan off. And for all those who say you have to pull the engine mounts and lift the engine to remove the pan I say I got it off with no problem from the cross member clearance. Even if the trans and flex plate were still In the truck it would've came out with enough room.