Don't forget to heat up that sumbtch red hot and pour gear oil on it.
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Yes, like a flaming hot dorito, You're not having fun till you can taste the heat in the air you're breathing. lolDon't forget to heat up that sumbtch red hot and pour gear oil on it.
I did take the old ball joint and pushed it up to test that theory and the ball joint would not slip thru. And it would need to be pressed back in. So I didn’t widen the hole thousandths of an inch or by mm either. And a side note, the stud is very tall, so I was not able to use the ball joint tool from autozone to remove it. I tried the proper way and the tool was not tall enough to clear the stud.There's difference between pressing a press fit assembly apart or flailing on it with a BFH. I bet that was a sight. Sometimes, being unaware, we make our own mess.
This gets better and better. So, I'm guessing you hammered both sides out because the tool didn't fit. Are the old ones in the ebay kit both numbered OEJN 30311? If they didn't match that's where you should have stopped last time. Maybe the side you're having issues with had an oddball slightly oversized/wrong/out of spec one hammered in previously. Measure both old ones. They the same diameter? Both new ones measure the same? Are the diameters of the old and new ones the same? The answer to your problem is right in front of you.I did take the old ball joint and pushed it up to test that theory and the ball joint would not slip thru. And it would need to be pressed back in. So I didn’t widen the hole thousandths of an inch or by mm either. And a side note, the stud is very tall, so I was not able to use the ball joint tool from autozone to remove it. I tried the proper way and the tool was not tall enough to clear the stud.
The old ball joint has the stamping OEJN 30311 on the bottom, but no luck in trying to find any info on it
DO NOT WELD IN A LOWER BALLJOINT. EVER.A huge thank you to all of you that took the time to offer your thoughts and suggestions, it is greatly appreciated.
I’m planning on more research and ultimately, I may weld the 6239 in since it’s soo close, or possibly replace the lca with new one with lbj installed
I fully agree that a press-in ball joint needs to be held in by the press fit, and that welding in one that doesn't fit is wrong. However, I've had a press-in ball joint pop loose on the road. I'm fully in favor of putting a couple tacks for extra security.DO NOT WELD IN A LOWER BALLJOINT. EVER.
Isn't the point of a snap ring to prevent this very issue (not that you should rely on it but should at least get you home)? Correct me if these trucks don't have them on the LBJ's.I fully agree that a press-in ball joint needs to be held in by the press fit, and that welding in one that doesn't fit is wrong. However, I've had a press-in ball joint pop loose on the road. I'm fully in favor of putting a couple tacks for extra security.
Isn't the point of a snap ring to prevent this very issue (not that you should rely on it but should at least get you home)? Correct me if these trucks don't have them on the LBJ's.
Damn. I replaced my LCA's entirely so I have not gotten a good look at mine yet. I didn't notice if they had them or not on my aftermarket arms.I don't beleive there are any snap rings. My 4x4 doesn't use them, and I've never seen them mentioned here for the 2wds, either.
I get where you’re coming from man, but I’m still stuck in the shop owner safety mindset of liability and “recommended practices” I personally have never experienced one popping out, but have seen what happens when a ball joint stud breaks and a lower control arm mounting u-bolt fails on the older square body one tons.I fully agree that a press-in ball joint needs to be held in by the press fit, and that welding in one that doesn't fit is wrong. However, I've had a press-in ball joint pop loose on the road. I'm fully in favor of putting a couple tacks for extra security.
I'm a cheapskate, but OP is at the point where I'd bite the bullet and pay for a new control arm.