1988 C1500 can’t find big enough ball joint HELP!!

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73L48

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There's difference between pressing a press fit assembly apart or flailing on it with a BFH. I bet that was a sight. Sometimes, being unaware, we make our own mess.
I did take the old ball joint and pushed it up to test that theory and the ball joint would not slip thru. And it would need to be pressed back in. So I didn’t widen the hole thousandths of an inch or by mm either. And a side note, the stud is very tall, so I was not able to use the ball joint tool from autozone to remove it. I tried the proper way and the tool was not tall enough to clear the stud.

The old ball joint has the stamping OEJN 30311 on the bottom, but no luck in trying to find any info on it
 

Hipster

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I did take the old ball joint and pushed it up to test that theory and the ball joint would not slip thru. And it would need to be pressed back in. So I didn’t widen the hole thousandths of an inch or by mm either. And a side note, the stud is very tall, so I was not able to use the ball joint tool from autozone to remove it. I tried the proper way and the tool was not tall enough to clear the stud.

The old ball joint has the stamping OEJN 30311 on the bottom, but no luck in trying to find any info on it
This gets better and better. So, I'm guessing you hammered both sides out because the tool didn't fit. Are the old ones in the ebay kit both numbered OEJN 30311? If they didn't match that's where you should have stopped last time. Maybe the side you're having issues with had an oddball slightly oversized/wrong/out of spec one hammered in previously. Measure both old ones. They the same diameter? Both new ones measure the same? Are the diameters of the old and new ones the same? The answer to your problem is right in front of you.

I can't really condone welding the ball joint to the control arm. Better to be safe and get a new one.
 
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alignman88

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A huge thank you to all of you that took the time to offer your thoughts and suggestions, it is greatly appreciated.

I’m planning on more research and ultimately, I may weld the 6239 in since it’s soo close, or possibly replace the lca with new one with lbj installed
DO NOT WELD IN A LOWER BALLJOINT. EVER.

Sounds like you need a Moog K6445 balljoint per the Moog website. Previous version that has been superseded apparently is the 6293 number but I see you keep referring to a 6239 part number. Here’s a screen cap from Moog website and I’ve included the link where it shows to fit many GM vehicles.

 

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Erik the Awful

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DO NOT WELD IN A LOWER BALLJOINT. EVER.
I fully agree that a press-in ball joint needs to be held in by the press fit, and that welding in one that doesn't fit is wrong. However, I've had a press-in ball joint pop loose on the road. I'm fully in favor of putting a couple tacks for extra security.

I'm a cheapskate, but OP is at the point where I'd bite the bullet and pay for a new control arm.
 

Ruff Idol

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I fully agree that a press-in ball joint needs to be held in by the press fit, and that welding in one that doesn't fit is wrong. However, I've had a press-in ball joint pop loose on the road. I'm fully in favor of putting a couple tacks for extra security.
Isn't the point of a snap ring to prevent this very issue (not that you should rely on it but should at least get you home)? Correct me if these trucks don't have them on the LBJ's.
 

454cid

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Isn't the point of a snap ring to prevent this very issue (not that you should rely on it but should at least get you home)? Correct me if these trucks don't have them on the LBJ's.

I don't beleive there are any snap rings. My 4x4 doesn't use them, and I've never seen them mentioned here for the 2wds, either.
 

Ruff Idol

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I don't beleive there are any snap rings. My 4x4 doesn't use them, and I've never seen them mentioned here for the 2wds, either.
Damn. I replaced my LCA's entirely so I have not gotten a good look at mine yet. I didn't notice if they had them or not on my aftermarket arms.

The weight of the truck on the knuckle should keep the LBJ in, although I can imagine over some serious bumps it has the potential to pop out.
 

alignman88

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I fully agree that a press-in ball joint needs to be held in by the press fit, and that welding in one that doesn't fit is wrong. However, I've had a press-in ball joint pop loose on the road. I'm fully in favor of putting a couple tacks for extra security.

I'm a cheapskate, but OP is at the point where I'd bite the bullet and pay for a new control arm.
I get where you’re coming from man, but I’m still stuck in the shop owner safety mindset of liability and “recommended practices” I personally have never experienced one popping out, but have seen what happens when a ball joint stud breaks and a lower control arm mounting u-bolt fails on the older square body one tons.

Watched a pickup take out a bunch of chain link fence around our shop property on its way into the neighbors living room when balljoint broke. And I was driving the one ton with a loaded trailer leaving a gas well location when LCA u bolt let go about 100 yards from two lane state highway. Both left lasting impressions on me…and the one ton trucks drivers seat too ha ha!!!
 
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