I
Yes, been there,done that.
Advice for a new owner of an old truck?
- Thread starter narcisogabriel
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- #6.5
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someotherguy
Truly Awesome
Welcome and really interesting truck!
As far as your battery question, no, you'll need both batteries to crank that sucker reliably. Get good ones.
While you're in there checking things out, be sure the starter has the brace that attaches the front of it to the engine block.
Richard
narcisogabriel
Newbie
Sim, exatamente. Tem silverado também com os motores sprint a diesel 6cyl. A minha ainda é a versão 88-94, com o interior totalmente diferente das outras vendidas após essa, ainda bem que a minha camionete esta com praticamente todos os acabamentos no lugar (Só não tem a tampa da porta fusível e aquele cinzeiro móvel.
jhornsby3
Newbie
Where to start.
The CDR needs to be checked. The "tuna can" looking thing on the right side valve cover.
It looks like the heater line from the coolant cross over has blown or has been leaking. Carefully remove the quick connect and put a barbed fitting on it.
Remove the fuel filter housing and clean it out really good. Careful with the seals.
For the air cleaner, get yourself a round one from a newer gasser. They clean the air better and flow more than the stock flat ones.
Look to see if the PMD (black box) is attached to the injection pump. About the size of a deck of cards on the left side of the pump. It needs to be relocated to the hole or between the holes in the front bumper. In the engine compartment, it gets heated up and will fail. It can cause a no start and I have seen them cause a wide open throttle.
DO NOT USE EATHER TO START. That is an indirect injected engine. And that stuff does bad things to them. If you need a starting aid, use WD-40.
Double check that bracket on the starter. It ties the back of the starter to the block. Without it, it will break the ears off the mounts. Then the block is no good.
When buying parts, make sure you use good AC Delco or GM parts. Cheap chinese parts just that, cheap. And be prepared for the 100k mile head gasket replacement. It WILL happen.
Not sure about the fuel down there, but a pint of two stroke oil per fill up helps out a lot. It lubricates the injectors and helps with the injector hammering.
I'm sure there is a lot more. But it's been a very long weekend for me.
For parts, look up Kennedy Diesel, Lincoln Diesel and Heath Diesel. They can help you with your 6.5L and not steer you wrong.
And remember, the 6.5l was designed around economy not pulling big loads. I drove mine all over this country and pulled a 32' fifth wheel trailer that weighed 8000 lbs.
The CDR needs to be checked. The "tuna can" looking thing on the right side valve cover.
It looks like the heater line from the coolant cross over has blown or has been leaking. Carefully remove the quick connect and put a barbed fitting on it.
Remove the fuel filter housing and clean it out really good. Careful with the seals.
For the air cleaner, get yourself a round one from a newer gasser. They clean the air better and flow more than the stock flat ones.
Look to see if the PMD (black box) is attached to the injection pump. About the size of a deck of cards on the left side of the pump. It needs to be relocated to the hole or between the holes in the front bumper. In the engine compartment, it gets heated up and will fail. It can cause a no start and I have seen them cause a wide open throttle.
DO NOT USE EATHER TO START. That is an indirect injected engine. And that stuff does bad things to them. If you need a starting aid, use WD-40.
Double check that bracket on the starter. It ties the back of the starter to the block. Without it, it will break the ears off the mounts. Then the block is no good.
When buying parts, make sure you use good AC Delco or GM parts. Cheap chinese parts just that, cheap. And be prepared for the 100k mile head gasket replacement. It WILL happen.
Not sure about the fuel down there, but a pint of two stroke oil per fill up helps out a lot. It lubricates the injectors and helps with the injector hammering.
I'm sure there is a lot more. But it's been a very long weekend for me.
For parts, look up Kennedy Diesel, Lincoln Diesel and Heath Diesel. They can help you with your 6.5L and not steer you wrong.
And remember, the 6.5l was designed around economy not pulling big loads. I drove mine all over this country and pulled a 32' fifth wheel trailer that weighed 8000 lbs.
narcisogabriel
Newbie
Thanks for the advices man. We tried to hear the sound of that engine last week but it didnt started, probably it was the pmd, already ordered one and It will arrive next week. The fuel didnt make to the injectors, so it was the injector pump or the pmd itself, already cleaned the injector pump e now just waiting for the PMD.
This week I'll clean the tank, fuel lines and see if the fuel pump is working good. I tried with a external tank and a small eletric pump just to see if the truck would work.
This truck probably standed for 5+ years in the garage, the diesel in the pump was already "rotten" and the pump was stuck with this old diesel. Here in Brazil we have 2 kinds of diesel, one is Diesel "S500", the older one used for engines 2009 and bellow and "S10" that is used for engines 2009+, by the collour of the diesel that came out of the injectors line they probably used the S10 and this kind of diesel gets "rotten" much easier, so thats why the injection pump was stuck.
I bought the gasket kit for all the engine, but how the milleage is low I will try to make it run without opening the engine. I will replace the gaskets only if I see any problems or leakage.
About the heater line, the nut its broken in the junction, its easy to fix, I'll put a new flexible with and a new nut.
jhornsby3
Newbie
Did you get the extension harness to go with? And there is a resister that goes in the PMD plug. Did you get a new one with the PMD? I found the #9 resister to be the best for a little bit more fuel delivery.
There is so much that can be done for diagnostics. And, for me, it's hard to relay through a forum. I'm more of a "do it" type person.
But after you get the tank and the lines cleaned, if you still have no flow from the pump, check the OPS (oil pressure sensor) for operation. The OPS will stop the fuel pump from sending signal to turn on the pump. Check fuel flow by opening the "T" valve at the front, top of the block. If everything is working, you should get a good flow, without bubbles, from the valve.
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