Reel light location

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someotherguy

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Pretty sure the rubbery magnet is so that it won't scratch your paint when you stick it there. It's true though that it's not a strong magnet. Also, they are notorious for coming un-glued from the lamp.

A couple small neodymium magnets would work great. Glue them on there with wacky glue, then flip the thing over so that you can make a nice smooth, level coating of Tool Dip. That would protect your paint.

The wireless tow lights I use have a whole ring of super crazy strong neodymium magnets at each end. With what these units cost, you don't want them accidentally coming off a vehicle while it's in tow.

Richard
 

smdk2500

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All this talk about underhood lights makes me wish my 95 with the 6.5 had one. Maybe I'll steal the one out of my other 95 and put in it.
 

Rocket Surgeon

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I have confused myself... the dedicated harness I mentioned came from a fender mounted unit. It is about 3 feet long. I do not know what year it was from, but likely the last year(s) of the early style and after the stud pack was discontinued.
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Right: early unit 15528774 9279 (88-94)
Left: late unit 15990293 6130 (94?-98?)
Later unit appears to be backwards compatible, and online search seems to indicate the early style was superceded.
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Note the different mounting holes, two of the three screws observed to be used in the newer model go where there is no hole in the earlier unit.

Reel light article:
 

someotherguy

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These are also known for crapping out once they get old. I don't know if it's from use, or from lack of use - never cracked one open to have a look, but being a fairly simple device, can't be too many possible causes for failure. Likely going to be the contacts inside on the reel. I've got a dead one on the shelf somewhere (old style, TBI era) that I should take a peek at to see what's up. Vague recollection tells me they're plastic-welded together so it may take "breaking" it to open, then some other means of fastener/glue to re-assemble.

I noticed the separated magnet in your pics, and also neither of them still have the magnet attached. A little glue...or some of that nice 3M gray double-sided heavy duty tape probably work just fine.

Richard
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Good ideas all, thanks for the responses! I'll be looking for magnets and checking them to see if they work, cleaning them up etc. After it gets back in the 60s-70s next week....
It's dropped 20° and gotten much windier in the last hour or so, here in SW Houston, Texas.
 

Rocket Surgeon

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They are plastic welded. You should be able to crack them apart, repair, and use a soldering iron to reweld the plastic. Notice the newer style has a broken light latch, so does the other new style one I have... I will have to see if I can swap parts to repair.

I would prefer to attach a non-mar pad in place of the magnet (rubber, leather, vinyl?) and install neodynium rare earth magnets within the housing.
 

someotherguy

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They are plastic welded. You should be able to crack them apart, repair, and use a soldering iron to reweld the plastic. Notice the newer style has a broken light latch, so does the other new style one I have... I will have to see if I can swap parts to repair.

I would prefer to attach a non-mar pad in place of the magnet (rubber, leather, vinyl?) and install neodynium rare earth magnets within the housing.
If you're going to use strong magnets, I'd suggest whatever choice of material you put on the outside be something that you can easily clean. Neodymium magnets strong enough they'll attract any type of ferrous debris, so shavings and such need to be easy to remove or you'll negate any benefit of a soft backing if any sharp scratchy stuff gets stuck in it.

Richard
 

Rocket Surgeon

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Opened up. This one was junk, but I did break the handle. Oops No need to remove the reel handle to open it up, fyi.

You can see the brass contact rings centered in the white reel, and the contact arms that connect to them. The grease is congealed.

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It is held together by two plastic rivets that can be melted apart (as indicated) and back together after internal servicing. The curved area has retention tabs, there is no melting there on the units I have inspected.
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I therefore surmise that a quick fix can be done... melt the two rivets and separate halves, clean all the brass contacts and coat with dielectric grease, and reassemble. re-melt rivet and reinstall.

I am still working on if the bulb section can be opened.
 

someotherguy

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Opened up. This one was junk, but I did break the handle. Oops No need to remove the reel handle to open it up, fyi.

You can see the brass contact rings centered in the white reel, and the contact arms that connect to them. The grease is congealed.

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It is held together by two plastic rivets that can be melted apart (as indicated) and back together after internal servicing. The curved area has retention tabs, there is no melting there on the units I have inspected.
You must be registered for see images attach


I therefore surmise that a quick fix can be done... melt the two rivets and separate halves, clean all the brass contacts and coat with dielectric grease, and reassemble. re-melt rivet and reinstall.

I am still working on if the bulb section can be opened.
The bulb area can absolutely be opened - can't recall if the lens just twists off or if it's glued; pretty sure it twists off as I replaced the bulb in one of mine with an LED and put the lens back on - don't recall having to do any special tricks to make it happen.

Richard
 
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