Sound Deadening RCSB

TechNova said:

I used a lot of Noico on my 89 step side. Covered entire floor, cab back, roof, cab corners, kick panels and door skins. I then used the foam under the door panels.
I plan to do the same to the Tahoe as I take it apart to rustproof, fox door lock, clean carpet etc.
You will have FAR more success with plastics repair if you clean then sand all the area with 80 grit then clean with alchohol before adhesive. Anywhere adhesive is on an unsanded area is a failure point. Once one area gives, the rest will come off easier.
Proper abrasion and cleaning is a must for all plastic repair.

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Regarding the plastic. I roughed with wire brush and cleaned with alcohol. Should hold.

Thanks!

Do you toss the old sound deadening material when installing the new mats, or do you "double up" with old and new material?

Thanks for the excellent info! My truck is a bone stock RCLB with a 4.3 and it sounds like a tractor.

alpinecrick said:

Thanks!

Do you toss the old sound deadening material when installing the new mats, or do you "double up" with old and new material?

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I was able to make it work leaving the existing factory stuff. YMMV. I think I would have been able to make the vinyl floor lay down better if I removed the existing.

TheAutumnWind said:

Cant wait to get some MLV in the doors. I can tell that those are not treated as well as the rest of the cab.

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65-70% of road noise is transfered through the doors.
In my '97 I did three 8" wide (approx.) vertical strips of the MLV on the inside of the outer sheet metal followed with a full covering. Then a layer of 3/8" (Metric? Dunno.) of the closed cell.
Those three strips because they will cancel out any panel resonances.
Once that stupidly designed inner panel was back on, I covered that too, with cut-outs for the panels bolts. (One day that panel WILL have to come off again! It's a 400, after all.) Made sure not to cover up the D/P push-pin holes.
Found out that it's not a good idea to cover those low/rear inner vents. That MLV is tenaciuosly sticky. PITA to get it off the vents.
Anyways...
I added one more layer to the inside of the plastic door panel.
Installed the D/P with all new push-pins.
All this took a while as I had to keep checking for clearance & interference.
...and then I had the other door to do.
My door pins hate me.

I completely covered my floor, roof, back wall, and inner doors with 80mil kilmat. CCF was suggested but when I saw the $210 price tag, I figured kilmat would do for now lol. Doors close better now that they weigh more though. I'll have to do pins and bushings soon

95C1500 said:

I completely covered my floor, roof, back wall, and inner doors with 80mil kilmat. CCF was suggested but when I saw the $210 price tag, I figured kilmat would do for now lol. Doors close better now that they weigh more though. I'll have to do pins and bushings soon

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Kilmat is much lighter than mass loaded vinyl. I think you've confused ccf for MLV.

Kilmat (cld tiles) definitely helps a lot with making your doors not sound tinny.

TheAutumnWind said:

Kilmat is much lighter than mass loaded vinyl. I think you've confused ccf for MLV.

Kilmat (cld tiles) definitely helps a lot with making your doors not sound tinny.

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I definitely typed the wrong thing

I also used a product like kilmat ( aluminum back) under my headlier. The foam stuff everywhere else. I also loaded the dash with the black foam and its amazingly quiet. Waiting for carpet to see how quiet it really is. It seems to me a lot of noise comes from the back of the cab so will go heavier with that area.

TechNova said:

I used a lot of Noico on my 89 step side. Covered entire floor, cab back, roof, cab corners, kick panels and door skins. I then used the foam under the door panels.
I plan to do the same to the Tahoe as I take it apart to rustproof, fox door lock, clean carpet etc.
You will have FAR more success with plastics repair if you clean then sand all the area with 80 grit then clean with alchohol before adhesive. Anywhere adhesive is on an unsanded area is a failure point. Once one area gives, the rest will come off easier.
Proper abrasion and cleaning is a must for all plastic repair.

Click to expand...

Fox door lock??