Time to Get Serious With 4L60e/4L65e Cooling...

Transamco · Aug 30, 2020

Coolers are definitely a must have, but cooler flow rate is an area that gets overlooked all to often too. A big cooler with a restriction in the cooler circuit will result in damage just as quickly as insufficient cooling. That aside, there is another approach to prevent heat issues in these units... control how much heat is being created in the first place. The extra heat is not only due to increased load but also due to decreased application time of the converter clutch. This can be manually controlled as in 700R4/4L60 units

TheAutumnWind · Aug 31, 2020

alpinecrick said:
35+ years ago I had a buddy with a 90 K1500--who had zero mechanical knowledge--routinely stick the car wash wand in his grill and wash all the "stuff" behind the grill. He couldn't figure out why his truck was overheating--he had flattened practically every fin on the condenser.......

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I bet most of the condensers on these trucks are partially plugged with debris and lots of flattened fins from various impacts. I just recently, meticulously and anally, straightened fins and pulled as many of the small stones out between the fins on the condensers of my 96 G1500 and K1500 with a pick, then pulled the radiators back and with my 90 degree water and air wands cleaned the condensers from the backside. Then several coats of foaming condenser cleaner, and more washing. LOTS of gunk came out. Attempting to wash condensers/radiators from the front side pushes a lot of the gunk deeper into the fins.

Well said. I dont flatten my fins with my pressure washer!

Pinger · Aug 31, 2020

Curt said:
True, but my point was it is no longer held up to a certain standard and regulations. If the bottle states it is compatible with Dex III, how would we know? Formulas get modified as times go on and I'm sure companies modify the formula to be more cost-friendly for them to produce if no one is watching. Either ways, it's really all consumer speculation. Here's a document from a fluid company that talks about DEX III a little bit. I find it interesting how they suggest avoiding DEX III since it is no longer regulated. But, it could just be a marketing gimmick. http://www.smittysinc.net/userfiles/productLiterature/SUS-ApprovalsBook-2017.pdf (Pages 16-17 is what I'm referring to) @L31MaxExpress had issues when switching over, when I switched over the trans in our H2 felt better. Seems like a YMMV deal.

Fair point - so I looked again at my two products I'll be choosing from. The 'Dexron III' one has been reformulated and renamed (while retaining its product number) and no longer claims the GM approval as its predecessor had but now says ''Suitable for use in these applications'' and lists where Dexron III was previously specified among them.

The Dexron IV one, doesn't claim to have GM approval but under ''Performance requirements met or exceeded'' lists GM Dexron VI (J 60347); GM Dexron III (obsolete); GM Dexron (obsolete).
The company manufacturing these oils will not submit for OEM approval if the OEM insists on the formulations being disclosed - the likely reason for the lack of GM approval for its Dexron VI oil despite meeting or exceeding the required spec.

Curt said:
____________________________________
@alpinecrick @Pinger @df2x4

Found the answer to the DEX VI transfer case, manual trans, power steering question. I managed to find a GM TSB stating that if you have transfer case or manual transmission that used DEX III, use the P/N 88861800 as the replacement. For power steering pumps use the P/N 9985010.

GM TSB here: https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/91398/2622890

The Dexron VI oil I referred to above sites 'power steering systems' and 'hydraulic pumps' as suitable applications.

TheAutumnWind · Aug 31, 2020

Pinger said:
The same has been done on my 2500C Suburban - the difference being that my lines have been re-routed directly to the external tube cooler. I intend rectifying this as I don't like the fact that the ATF is missing the pre-warming from the saddle cooler on the main rad but then again, there's no heat there until the coolant thermostat opens....

What I really don't understand is why the main rad saddle cooler was bypassed. Not because the two fluids were mixing as the coolant would still leak (ATF side is open, ie, no fittings in place so leaking coolant would be obvious). I haven't found time to properly leak test the ATF side for leaks to outside (preliminary but not exhaustive) check showed no sign of leaking though.
Re-connecting the pipe work to it is the obvious thing to do - but not before establishing why it was bypassed (add concerns with cleanliness).
There must be a reason why yours and mine were bypassed.

I bypassed my rad and am running the external trans cooler (hayden 679, which looks to be the same as the trucool m7b) only on my nbs escalade. It had a leak. I have not gotten around to replacing the lines yet. Temps are fine. I'll get to it eventually.

Pinger · Aug 31, 2020

TheAutumnWind said:
I bypassed my rad and am running the external trans cooler (hayden 679, which looks to be the same as the trucool m7b) only on my nbs escalade. It had a leak. I have not gotten around to replacing the lines yet. Temps are fine. I'll get to it eventually.

We're in the same place. It's not high temps I'm worried about either (how much heat is really transferred between the ATF and coolant which is close to its boiling temp?) but the warming from cold of the ATF from the coolant. But as there's no heat until the coolant thermostat opens - what am I really missing?

Looking for a liquid to liquid heat exchanger that I can plumb into the heater lines to speed up the ATF warm up and then cool when ATF temp is greater than coolant temp - but haven't found one yet. Or rather I have - but the vendors are keeping the connection sizes a secret.

blackdeathmessenger · Sep 1, 2020

Having worked in a transmission shop, I can say the early 4L60E's are kind of junk; It's great when it works, but they tend to break alot. The best solution I've seen is to put a LPD trans cooler on them (low pressure drop), the LPD cooler allows less of a pressure drop than your average trans cooler. Heat and friction tends to be what destroys most transmissions, aside from never servicing them.

Wheeler · Sep 1, 2020

Something else I was told from the tranny shop (who built mine) is that If your towing, (regardless of temp) & you know u need to drop a gear, do it manually.. he told me it’s easier in the tranny (4L60e). True or not no idea.. I let er drop gears on er own!

Curt · Sep 9, 2020

Curt said:
Tru-Cool H7B
Derale 13011 (Trans Thermostat, overkill but I already had it on order so might as well install it)
Tube Cutter (for modifying hard lines, if needed)
454SS Radiator
ACDelco DEXRON-VI
ACDelco Deep Pan Filter & Gasket
CFR Performance 4L60e/65e pan

I guess it's time for an update...? Still waiting on an undamaged trans cooler to arrive to my doorstep. 2 of 2 have arrived damaged and waiting on the 3rd one now. Put a real stopper on the project.

In better news even with the terrible air quality in California right now I installed the 454SS radiator. I left the trans lines disconnected until I replace the cooler along with change the trans fluid. I also opted to upgrade the 5 blade fan to the newer 11 blade.

Old regular 1500 suburban rad & 5 blade fan (yes the sky is red right now):

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5 blade fan v. 11 blade fan:

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New 454SS radiator & 11 blade fan:

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SUBURBAN5 · Sep 9, 2020

Very nice

Curt · Sep 19, 2020

Finally done installing everything.

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Extremely happy with the install. Had to fabricate all the brackets to mount everything up but it looks great. Full(ish) write up to come.

Time to Get Serious With 4L60e/4L65e Cooling...

Transamco

Newbie

TheAutumnWind

I'm Awesome

Pinger

I'm Awesome

TheAutumnWind

I'm Awesome

Pinger

I'm Awesome

blackdeathmessenger

OBS Enthusiast

Wheeler

OBS Enthusiast

Curt

Sometimes when I close my eyes, I can't see.

SUBURBAN5

I'm Awesome

Curt

Sometimes when I close my eyes, I can't see.

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