Replacing o2 sensors ... wide range in $$$, worth paying up?

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stutaeng

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I too just installed my upstream pair on my 2000 K3500. Even though the truck lived in the country and is a bit "rusty" relative to a city truck, I did not have too bad of a job to remove them. I bought the Lisle 12390 wrench and 12230 thread chaser. Both worked flawlessly. I used a 1/2" drive x 18" breaker bar.

I bought Densos at RockAuto. Very good price. I just ordered the downstream pair.

BTW, the warranty on these is only 1 or 2 years, even at the local auto parts store.
 

DOGFACE

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I ordered all four AC Delco units from Rockauto for $135 shipped. I don't know the history of the other sensors, figure it would be path of least resistance just to knock them all out at once.
 

stutaeng

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I just replaced the downstream last night...I highly recommend that Lisle tool and 18" breaker bar! Since you are up North, you are likely going to have a harder time to remove them.

The driver's side downstream has the connector above the transfer case. It was hard to disconnect it. The passenger side upstream connector is also a bit hard to get to.
 

stutaeng

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I just replaced the downstream last night...I highly recommend that Lisle tool and 18" breaker bar! Since you are up North, you are likely going to have a harder time to remove them.

The driver's side downstream has the connector above the transfer case. It was hard to disconnect it. The passenger side upstream connector is also a bit hard to get to.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Soak them with some PB Blaster for a while before trying to break them loose.
 

Schurkey

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Soak them with some PB Blaster for a while before trying to break them loose.
Pointless.

The sensors use a gasket just like old spark plugs--the gasket makes it a gas-tight seal. IF scraming-hot exhaust gas under mild pressure can't get out, liquid penetrant can't get in. It'll never get past the gasket to the threads.

If you could turn the sensor half-a-rotation, so that the gasket was not in close contact between the sensor and the boss for the female threads, the penetrant might do some good--but by then you've already gotten the sensor broken-free.







Oh, yeah.
The big problem with typical "O2 sensor sockets/wrenches" is that they're split on the side so they can be put on the sensor by feeding the wire harness through the side of the tool. Then the tool has reduced strength because of the "split", so it flexes and rounds the corners of the O2 sensor.

I have the Snap-On branded version (# SWR2) of the Lisle 12390 wrench. It's "OK" but not better than OK. The thing desperately needs to be 1/2" drive instead of 3/8, and more-robust all around. I've also got a socket-style tool, but it's an off-brand, poorly made (weak) and also 3/8" drive. That one is useless on O2 sensors, but might be OK on thermo-vacuum switches.

Years ago, I bought a six-point 7/8 Craftsman raised-panel (cheap) USA-made wrench, then bent the handle just ahead of the box-end, this works great if there's access to use it. The harness on the sensor may have to be cut because some O2 sensor connector bodies won't fit through the box end. Since it's not split, it's much stronger and doesn't slip on the hex wrenching surface of the sensor.

I bought a new socket for O2 sensors yesterday. Haven't used it yet, but I have verified that it will fit any of the O2 sensors I have on hand. This is a WRIGHT-brand 1/2" deep impact socket, # 4928. I have a similar Snap-On deep impact, but the hex broaching is very shallow. The SK 1/2" drive deep impact is made the same way as the Snappy--shallow broaching. They're probably stronger sockets than the Wright, but they won't fit over an O2 sensor. The Wright is broached all the way down, so there's room for the thick body of the sensor. It's (just barely) long enough, which is fine, it'll give maximum possible clearance. And of course, thick-wall and will accept a 1/2 breaker bar or ratchet without an adapter. The wire harness has to be cut off the sensor near the sensor body to use this socket.

I'm hoping to extract the O2 sensor on my Monte Carlo with this socket, from the top of the engine without having to crawl underneath and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. But it might be handy in other applications as well. Everything depends on the available tool clearance on each vehicle.

I got mine locally, but here's the Amazon link to the same product. The socket is Made In USA, Wright is a well-respected manufacturer of tools for "industry" rather than for "auto repair"--but there's a lot of overlap between industrial-purpose and vehicles.
https://www.amazon.com/Wright-Tool-4928-6-Point-Impact/dp/B002VKBRCC/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Wright+7/8+deep+impact&qid=1568917945&sr=8-9
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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The sensors use a gasket just like old spark plugs--the gasket makes it a gas-tight seal. IF scraming-hot exhaust gas under mild pressure can't get out, liquid penetrant can't get in. It'll never get past the gasket to the threads.
What if the sensor was put in with the applied anti-seize on the threads and outside heat/moisture corroded the "gasket" between the sensor and seat, wouldn't you think something like PB Blaster would help break it free? Anything that's exposed to heat cycles and moisture/corrosion probably would be helped with a penetrating oil. At least worth a minute of effort and time, huh?
 

Schurkey

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"Marinading" in penetrating oil never hurts, except for the spots on the driveway where it drips off the vehicle.

Every time I pull out an O2 sensor, the threads look terrible, and the gasket seems fine.
 
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