First real test drive today, after V8 swap.

[DeCaff2007]

If you're not willing to diagnose, take it to someone who can.

Unless I speak Hradada and drive an import or a minivan, nobody around here will touch something this old.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Screw "tuning" at least for now.

Find someone to figure out why the engine runs bad. "Tuning" may be part of that, but it's almost certainly not the whole story. Something is WRONG, and you're putting your head in the sand.

Then without the ability to read live data, where to even start?

 

[fancyTBI]

Then without the ability to read live data, where to even start?

Buy a scanner. If you’re able to spend money on aftermarket aluminum heads (and now you want to remove them) you can buy a scanner. It is a drop in the bucket compared to the probably thousands you’ve got wrapped up into this project truck that you can’t even drive because you refuse to properly diagnose it!

You are asking for advice. People are giving it to you. Why even ask if you’re just going to disregard it or half hear it?

 

[DeCaff2007]

Buy a scanner. If you’re able to spend money on aftermarket aluminum heads (and now you want to remove them) you can buy a scanner. It is a drop in the bucket compared to the probably thousands you’ve got wrapped up into this project truck that you can’t even drive because you refuse to properly diagnose it!

You are asking for advice. People are giving it to you. Why even ask if you’re just going to disregard it or half hear it?

Fine, then suggest one. It's a VAST, overcrowded, overpriced market of junk, junk, and more junk. There's no real ONE solid answer of which scanner will get the job done.

 

[fancyTBI]

Fine, then suggest one. It's a VAST, overcrowded, overpriced market of junk, junk, and more junk. There's no real ONE solid answer of which scanner will get the job done.

You’ve been told numerous times which one to get!! In this thread and others. Here’s a solid answer: Snap On MTG2500. Period. Buy the $250 one on eBay. Use it, keep it, sell it or whatever the ****.

[Warning: Broken Record Alert]

Connect a friggin' scan tool, find out what the computer wants you to know. If your fuel pressure is low, or you have the wrong injectors, the fuel trims should be screwed-up. If the knock sensor is unhappy, the knock counts will be high. If the TPS, or the CTS or whatever is messed-up, it'll show on the data stream. This engine have an AIR pump? If it doesn't divert to the air cleaner as the engine warms-up, it'll freak-out the O2 sensor.

Make sure the EGR is plumbed and wired correctly. Did you source the correct PCV valve? But if there's a strong vacuum leak, the IAC counts will be off, and maybe the fuel trims too.

This engine is crying out for a scan tool. Get yourself signed-up for the Community MT2500 and see what it shows. Or take the money you'd have spent on rebuilding the already-rebuilt engine, and get one of your own.

Schurkey says the above, and then you say….

Any particular one you'd suggest?

And then he answers….

As long as you own an OBD1 vehicle, you're going to use it now and then, not "once".

And if you think $250 is high, the brand-new professional-grade tools are $3000 plus, and by "plus" I mean $10K perhaps more with Bideninflation.

I paid $350 for my used Snap-On Solus Pro. Would have been ~$3000+ when new in 2008.


I don't know. I've never seen one let alone used it. Most of 'em are Chinese clones of the genuine tool.

First Guess: On-board computers got sophisticated enough to need an updated/faster/more-powerful tool than the previous Tech 1 or...1A, maybe.

And you respond….

Well, that's nice I guess. "I" will NEVER buy snap on. TOOOOOO expensive for just another junk brand name.

Matter of fact, I have but ONE snap on tool in my entire collection. It's a flare fitting wrench and I couldn't even tell you what size. Used it once to try to remove a brake line steel nut. It spread apart and fell right off. Great tools, those snap on's..................

And here is your response. More of your usual willful ignorance because you think you know better.

Schurkey, Road Trip, Hipster, L31MaxExpress, and PlayingwithTBI (to name a few) have all spent tons of time over the course of all your posts trying to help you. Do you think they would steer you in the wrong direction?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Fine, then suggest one. It's a VAST, overcrowded, overpriced market of junk, junk, and more junk. There's no real ONE solid answer of which scanner will get the job done.

TunerPro RT v5, a 12 pin ALDL cable, and your laptop.

https://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm (free, or a contribution)

http://aldlcable.com/ ($59.95)

 

[fancyTBI]

TunerPro RT v5, a 12 pin ALDL cable, and your laptop.

https://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm (free, or a contribution)

http://aldlcable.com/ ($59.95)

Another great suggestion. And certainly affordable! Learning curve has to be about on par with a scanner.

 

[l1lartur0]

Schurkey, Road Trip, Hipster, L31MaxExpress, and PlayingwithTBI (to name a few) have all spent tons of time over the course of all your posts trying to help you. Do you think they would steer you in the wrong direction?

 

[DeCaff2007]

TunerPro RT v5, a 12 pin ALDL cable, and your laptop.

https://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm (free, or a contribution)

http://aldlcable.com/ ($59.95)

Very well, I will give it a try. It's going to be a minute before I get to it, unfortunately.

 

[tayto]

do you have a laptop? get a datalogging cable & free software....

BoostedNW ALDL 12 pin GM datalogger

This is for any pre-1995 (OBD1) GM vehicle. Everything except the 1995 LT1. You should be able to datalog all of them, and reflash the 94 LT1 as well. This item can be used with TunerPro RT, TTS Datamaster, TunerCat reflash for LT1, WinALDL, and EFI Live

boostednw.com