Thanks for the advice. When the truck first died I immediately hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and saw that it was still 60 psi with the key on, and held. I then just ASSumed it was a spark issue.
Randomly shuts off, then restarts after it sits for an hour or 2?
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Thanks for the advice. When the truck first died I immediately hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and saw that it was still 60 psi with the key on, and held. I then just ASSumed it was a spark issue.
stutaeng
I'm Awesome
Is rust an issue there? If so, check your wiring harness integrity...I just remembered you had a bed cross member pretty badly corroded in one of your threads, right?...was that this truck or the S10?
A lost ground , 12V+ or short of some sort will cause intermittent trouble, and will likely chase your tail trying to find it. On that note, double check your fuses also.
Those are the problems I would have a nightmare to find...some random wire doesn't make contact when you go over a bump or just cruising down the road.
That's good that you checked fuel pressure when it was failing to start...
A lost ground , 12V+ or short of some sort will cause intermittent trouble, and will likely chase your tail trying to find it. On that note, double check your fuses also.
Those are the problems I would have a nightmare to find...some random wire doesn't make contact when you go over a bump or just cruising down the road.
That's good that you checked fuel pressure when it was failing to start...
I will double check the grounds. I have (over the past 3 years) removed every ground and major positive and cleaned them up, then added dielectic grease. Rust was an issue at one time on this truck, but I think that I am on top of that issue - never know though, so I will do some checking. Thanks again.
When it dies and won't re-start, connect a scan tool, look for RPM while cranking.
No RPM = no spark.
No RPM = no spark.
I will try that. Awesome info - thanks!
I drove to the local auto zone and bought one of these today.
I also bought (all duralast) a spare crank and cam sensor, icm, and coil. They all have a lifetime warranty and weren't too expensive. Maybe a waste of $220, but it is nice to have spare stuff while traveling.
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I also bought (all duralast) a spare crank and cam sensor, icm, and coil. They all have a lifetime warranty and weren't too expensive. Maybe a waste of $220, but it is nice to have spare stuff while traveling.
I have never used that style of spark-tester. From the picture, it looks like it has a light-bulb inside, I suppose that the bulb flashes when it gets a spark--but the spark never has to actually jump an air gap.
If you haven't opened the package, take it back and get something like this:
www.amazon.com/dp/B003WZXAWK/?coliid=I3S98D7T1J0RLJ&colid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
This kind requires the spark to jump an air-gap, properly loading the ignition coil as it would be in a running engine. The one I've linked-to is calibrated for HEI ignitions, having a larger air gap than the ones for points/Chrysler electronic ignitions.
If you haven't opened the package, take it back and get something like this:
www.amazon.com/dp/B003WZXAWK/?coliid=I3S98D7T1J0RLJ&colid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
This kind requires the spark to jump an air-gap, properly loading the ignition coil as it would be in a running engine. The one I've linked-to is calibrated for HEI ignitions, having a larger air gap than the ones for points/Chrysler electronic ignitions.
This was the only one that they had, and i'll be gone by the time they get anything else in stock. I'll keep it, as it might come in handy for checking small engine stuff. When I get back home, i'll order one like you listed. Thanks.
stutaeng
I'm Awesome
Yeah, that's the one I was hoping OP would buy, the one with the adjustable air-gap. I bought the Lisle version of the LED light one first. I was trying to diagnose my 4.3 Vortec that cranked but not fire under wet/damp conditions. I seemingly had everything, including spark. I'm pretty sure I bought my second one based on @Schurkey recommendation somewhere on this forum. I was suspecting the quality of the spark was the issue on my truck.
I can't remember if I got it at the local parts store as the generic brand or Amazon. Last time I used it a few weeks ago, the clamp spring went flying off and I lost it. I used a jumper wire to make contact to ground in a panic.
I can't remember if I got it at the local parts store as the generic brand or Amazon. Last time I used it a few weeks ago, the clamp spring went flying off and I lost it. I used a jumper wire to make contact to ground in a panic.
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BNielsen
I'm Awesome
I had the same problem with my Suburban. It wound up being a dead cell in the battery.
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