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I could sell it as it is for 2/3's of what I paid for it. I'd rather keep it though. I bought it in August and havnt even put a full tank of gas through it yet bc of this.I would think that depends on how it was lifted. Some of them require cutting original parts..... the axle, I think.... or maybe the frame? If that's not the case, it should be just a matter of unbolting things, I would think. Then you can sell the thing and get money back!
What are you doing here? Trying to get 4 inches out of a 2-3" kit? Look at those tie rod angles. Not digging the way the inner joint looks on the axle which might be your rotational issue with the tire if it's failing and the wheel bearing checked out. That tie rod angle is going to create hella bumpsteer even if you can't feel it.You must be registered for see images attach
This is how bad the camber is
I'm just trying to fix it, in all honesty.. If I could LOWER the lift I'd MUCH rather that. Like I said, I bought the Truck like this. Took it for an alignment right after I bought it and they didn't say anything to me, just "It's good. Might wanna change your driver side upper control arm bolts. " And sent me on my way.What are you doing here? Trying to get 4 inches out of a 2-3" kit? Look at those tie rod angles. Not digging the way the inner joint looks on the axle which might be your rotational issue with the tire if it's failing and the wheel bearing checked out. That tie rod angle is going to create hella bumpsteer even if you can't feel it.
There are eccentric bolts available for the UCA that might or might not get you where you need to go and find an alignment guy that can do the proper job.
I could sell it as it is for 2/3's of what I paid for it. I'd rather keep it though. I bought it in August and havnt even put a full tank of gas through it yet bc of this.
Ohh. I don't think it'd really be worth it. Especially if it's causing me all this grief I'd feel terrible to flip it. It's just the shocks that are new.I'm talking about selling the lift, not the truck.
Ohh. I don't think it'd really be worth it. Especially if it's causing me all this grief I'd feel terrible to flip it. It's just the shocks that are new.
From what I read on RC, the only thing that gets modified is the diff gets cut and grinded down then raised(?) with the new diff mounts.
They are forged. They have the small round arm on the opposite side. And no I just replaced the rough country uca with a new set of RC uca. Wouldn't I also need to find a Un modded diff, bc the instructions look like you cut the mount off. I'm gunna try and back off the torsion on that side. If that's all it is I'm pooping on both shops welcome Mats.That's what makes it expensive to remove then..... you probably would need to find a used front axle that's not cut. It might not cost too much... I've never priced one.
That picture you posted looks like the lower control arms are in the stock location.... also those are stamped, not forged. What made you think you have forged lower arms?
Ok, just went to the Rough country website.... that lift is not what I thought it was. It looks like it is supposed to allow you to over crank your torsion bars, but relieve the CV shaft angles. They include upper arms, which maybe correct the camber, unless it's just the fancier balljoints they mention..... I'm guessing you've got stock uppers, and have it cranked too high, even for the "lift". Other than ditching the lift, I'd back off the torsion bar adjusters, and see if you can lower the truck a bit. Then when I could, I'd shop for a used front axle, and take it back to stock.