Wont move more than 6 inches

[NickTransmissions]

Won't go into 4WD. Push button blinks and makes noises but won't change over

You can rule in/out the trans front pump with a fairly easy test. With the vehicle off, check fluid level. If its way above the full mark, and it doesnt drop after firing up the engine, pump is shot.

 

[skahide]

Did it go into 4WD prior to the incident or no? Have you scanned the pcm for codes (you'll need a higher end scan tool to read and clear chassis codes, if present)

Yes, it would go into 4wd but had not been used in over 1 year.

 

[skahide]

if it moves in neutral and the shifter cable is NOT failed and is properly adjusted and moving the lever on the trans thre right amount, then its internal damage and failure in the automatic

edit: my experience with a 4t65e that P ND321 were all forward gears and R was bound up

When the gear shift is in Neutral, and in 2HI it is bound up.
ONLY moves when gear shift AND 4wd selector are both in neutral.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Trying to understand exactly what the vehicle is doing per these two descriptions:

When the gear shift is in Neutral, and in 2HI it is bound up.
ONLY moves when gear shift AND 4wd selector are both in neutral.

Goes into gears like normal.
Yukon only moves 6 inches in Drive, Reverse and Neutral.
When I place the transfer case into Neutral it rolls freely.
What kind of damage am I looking at?

What im getting is thst you're moving forward when the column shifter is in neutral. Is that actually happening?

If so, how far is it moving- 6 inches or indefinitely until you stop it via the brakes?

You should never be moving forward with the column shifter in neutral. That's trans or converter.

Find out if your front pump is moving fluid or not. Then drop the pan and have a look-see. If a bunch of metal or burnt clutch material is present, put the pan back on with a few bolts, yank it out and rebuild it.

 

[skahide]

Trying to understand exactly what the vehicle is doing per these two descriptions:



What im getting is thst you're moving forward when the column shifter is in neutral. Is that actually happening?

If so, how far is it moving- 6 inches or indefinitely until you stop it via the brakes?

You should never be moving forward with the column shifter in neutral. That's trans or converter.

Find out if your front pump is moving fluid or not. Then drop the pan and have a look-see. If a bunch of metal or burnt clutch material is present, put the pan back on with a few bolts, yank it out and rebuild it.

When gear shifter is in D or R, and 2HI = moves 6 inches under the engines power. (Bound up)
When gear shifter is in N, and 2HI= moves 6 inches when trying to physically push it into parking spot. (Bound up)
When gear shifter in N, and transfer case in N (via 4wd push button)= I can physically push it around indefinitely.

 

[618 Syndicate]

Just curious, not arguing as Im 50/50 tc vs trans but why do you both think its t-case?

Because he said it goes into gears like normal, and it'll start to move. In my experience (obviously not as much as yours) transmissions work or they don't. If the trans had failed it wouldn't drop into gear and it wouldn't move at all. Of course, I could be completely wrong...

His inability to select 4wd may or may not have been pre-existing (will know if/when he responds to my above) and tcase will still transfer energy to the driveshaft in 2H even if the 4wd isnt working or selectible...

Not if the driveshaft has bluetoothed it's connection inside the t-case...

 

[Hipster]

When gear shifter is in D or R, and 2HI = moves 6 inches under the engines power. (Bound up)
When gear shifter is in N, and 2HI= moves 6 inches when trying to physically push it into parking spot. (Bound up)
When gear shifter in N, and transfer case in N (via 4wd push button)= I can physically push it around indefinitely.

So D.R.N. binds up 2hi unless t case in neutral? Let's make this as complex as possible.

 

[NickTransmissions]

When gear shifter is in D or R, and 2HI = moves 6 inches under the engines power. (Bound up)
When gear shifter is in N, and 2HI= moves 6 inches when trying to physically push it into parking spot. (Bound up)
When gear shifter in N, and transfer case in N (via 4wd push button)= I can physically push it around indefinitely.

This is a much better, cleaner description of what's happening - thank you.

Your transfer case command/control system seems to be working. So were back to pin-pointing the problem but regardless of whether it's transfer case or transmission, it appears to be some sort of major mechanical failure...

For your sake, hope it's the transfer case - those are a dime a dozen in junk yards and much cheaper (and more reliable) to replace w/a good used one. If it's the transmission, you're spending about $600-$1000 in parts plus fluid, line flushing, cooler cleaning along with the time it takes to overhaul the unit yourself...If replacing with a reman or having a shop go through it, that price can approach $3,000 depending on your local market and/or what you're paying for a remanufactured unit.= plus R/R labor.

Because he said it goes into gears like normal, and it'll start to move. In my experience (obviously not as much as yours) transmissions work or they don't. If the trans had failed it wouldn't drop into gear and it wouldn't move at all. Of course, I could be completely wrong...

Not if the driveshaft has bluetoothed it's connection inside the t-case...

Transmissions working vs not covers an extremely broad set of scenarios...For example, his transmission could have gear train damage such that it moves a few feet in D or R then binds/locks up. It could also have forward movement in Drive, shift from 1st to 2nd but no 3rd/neutral in 3rd (most common reason 4L60Es need overhaul is 3-4 clutch pack burn up)...He could also have sun shell fracture but would have 1st and 3rd gear, just no reverse, 2nd or fourth gear.

Of those three (out of countless failure modes where the trans would still move a bit but be otherwise non-functioning), gear train damage is the one that best fits this scenario but, admittedly, I would evaluate the T case first, now that I have a better understanding of what his symptom patterns are.

No clue about blue toothing the t-case or whether that capability would be available in a late 90s vehicle so will defer to your knowledge there.

 

[618 Syndicate]

Transmissions working vs not covers an extremely broad set of scenarios...For example, his transmission could have gear train damage such that it moves a few feet in D or R then binds/locks up. It could also have forward movement in Drive, shift from 1st to 2nd but no 3rd/neutral in 3rd (most common reason 4L60Es need overhaul is 3-4 clutch pack burn up)...He could also have sun shell fracture but would have 1st and 3rd gear, just no reverse, 2nd or fourth gear.

Gotcha.

Of those three (out of countless failure modes where the trans would still move a bit but be otherwise non-functioning), gear train damage is the one that best fits this scenario but, admittedly, I would evaluate the T case first, now that I have a better understanding of what his symptom patterns are.

That's where I was at, start with the t-case.

No clue about blue toothing the t-case or whether that capability would be available in a late 90s vehicle so will defer to your knowledge there.

It's a joke. Bluetooth has no physical connection. Something my friends and I say when something has broken.

 

[NickTransmissions]

It's a joke. Bluetooth has no physical connection. Something my friends and I say when something has broken.

now you know how little my knowledge base is on t cases, haha. Ive rebuilt a couple of np205s but that's it...