Wheel Spacers? Anyone have photos?

[BBslider001]

Thinking about these, but not sure if they are alright to use and worth it. Thanks.

 

[BNielsen]

I had a set of 2" aluminum wheel spacers on my truck for a while before a local tire shop ruined the threads, and then I accidentally split them attempting to put in a new stud.
I liked the stance. But the rear tires wound up sticking out a touch further than the front, so I'll probably wind up going with 1.75" next time around since it'll even out the track perfectly.

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Imo, if you're going to get them I would spend money on a good set; preferably steel. But again that's just me, I know tons of guys who tow/wheel their trucks on cheap Ebay spacers

 

[F4U-1A]

Why?

 

[smdk2500]

Why?

Why what? Why to the wheel spacers? People use them to even out out the track width on the rear to get it closer to the front's width. I don't remember on the half tons but on the 3/4 tons the rear wheels are pulled inward roughly 1.75 inches and some people don't like the look of that. I am one of those people but have not done anything about it.

 

[F4U-1A]

Why what? Why to the wheel spacers? People use them to even out out the track width on the rear to get it closer to the front's width. I don't remember on the half tons but on the 3/4 tons the rear wheels are pulled inward roughly 1.75 inches and some people don't like the look of that. I am one of those people but have not done anything about it.

When I am not informed, I ask, in multiples.

 

[smdk2500]

When I am not informed, I ask, in multiples.

No problem one of the ways of learning something new. I am the same way. If I don't know I ask. I just wasn't sure what your question was pertaining too since 2nd poster added some info to the listing.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

I used spacers on 94 Mustang as I got her with N197 wheels and they sat super deep in the wheel arches. I used 2" Cayote hubcentric ones on the back (for added security) and 1 inch front(had to replace studs for longer ones as original left not enough thread-take it into account if you will use studless spacers) . You have to retorque them every 100 miles or so if you use ones with additional studs-and thick ones over 1" are equipped with them normally. I had no problems with them at all.

 

[Schurkey]

Hard on wheel bearings...

 

[Erik the Awful]

Hubcentrics are significantly better if they make them for your application. We run hubcentrics on our race BMW. We've had one that somehow got loose, and we couldn't keep the wheel tight with it, so we had to slap on a spare one in a hurry. If you run them, you might want to keep an extra under your seat.

I have a set of late '90s Corvette Grand Sport wheels that I bought cheap for my Jaguar. In order to bolt them on, I need 1" spacers in the rear and even larger spacers in front. My Jag has a slightly larger hub than Chevys, but has the same bolt pattern, so hub-centrics aren't cheaply available. At first I tried the cheap aluminum wheel spacers that work with longer studs, and while sitting over the winter, the heat and cold broke two of the studs - and yes, they'd been properly torqued. I think the bolt-on wheel spacers that have their own studs are better than those simple spacers. Loctite the inner lugnuts that hold the spacers on, and check them regularly.

If you replace your wheel studs with longer studs, checking them will become regular maintenance. We sheared off a wheel at Sebring last April because the loctite on the studs had loosened with several hundred miles of track use.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I run a 2" Stahl steel spacer on the rear of my long roof. Zero issues in over 30k miles. Lots of pics in my build thread.

Stahl is the same company as Bora(aluminum spacers), they are more money, but widely known to be of high quality.