Wheel Hub Assembly

[Supercharged111]

Wdym? Like how did ti get rusty or how did a seal have rust on it or

Like it looks like there was no seal, therefore rust exists there is what I'm thinking.

 

[Schurkey]

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Wdym? Like how did ti get rusty or how did a seal have rust on it or

Like it looks like there was no seal, therefore rust exists there is what I'm thinking.

Yeah, the seal had to be missing, or the seal lips so torn-up they weren't touching the seal surface on the joint. Which lead to the seal surface rusting from road-splash. But would it also have corroded the splines badly enough that the female splines are missing? Are the male splines on the joint damaged/missing on the part we can't see in the photo?

 

[AuroraGirl]

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Yeah, the seal had to be missing, or the seal lips so torn-up they weren't touching the seal surface on the joint. Which lead to the seal surface rusting from road-splash. But would it also have corroded the splines badly enough that the female splines are missing? Are the male splines on the joint damaged/missing on the part we can't see in the photo?

well it wasnt reallly just rust... hehe

In may or june or something I was at a stop sign, peeled out in a left turn, into boost, but It was gravel in the road, so traction control pulled timing, cut injector pulse width, but car has boost too... boost bypass was accidently unplugged during this time so car couldnt dump boost and sway bar had broken link so there was more severe angle for something like an OEM cv axle of 226k miles accelerating, traction control, severe angle, left turn(driver cv shown) and during all this fun stuff, I was of course WOT because I thats how I drive and there was traffic to beat

Loud bang and car shudders a wee bit, we keep driving since it was on a highway now only had a short distance till turn off again. Turn off, Car has accelerating issues but it was electronic not cv.
Decide gonna baby it home since I had all forward gears it seemed, had scan tool to monitor trans temps. I was driving for a little bit again, and there was something else that happened before. The shifter cable got yanked /bound up a bit and was out of adjustment or something, so when I put it into gear by feel like I normally do, i didnt notice that it was saying I was in "2" on the cluster despite the detents had me at D. When driving about 60 steady I saw Oh damn Im in 2, shifted upward 2 detents and thats when the money happened

Car slammed into reverse at 60.. that was about 20 feet of burnt rubber whew but that was a loud BAM

Baby car still to home it was working somehow
oh and i forgot to mention that I also had an overfilled trans because of the thermostatic element was causing the side cover to be misregulated while running, so the dipstick appeared low because the trans was filling the side cover too full from the pan.
And we had some pan gifts:

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that yellow rags contents were wiped from the pan to the left. I also did a trans fluid change less than 1k miles before the RIP moments. So not attributable to clutch mud... rip
The pipes on the left are all bent/no longer sealed in the accumulators(shifts were weird, the fluid pressure was bleeding off in the pan), and the differential lube pipe had a hose clamp/hose fail and it was also doing that, you can see the barb is visible which means it wasnt a sealed lube path eithere.

I cant be sure but I also have a missing flexplate weight but it may have somehow broke off the flexplate(?) in the past or that day.

I dont have a good photo of how the CV axle mates the wheel bearing but they dont use a seal for that platform, it just metal on metal interface that fills the recesss with the cone of the cv axle and then you torque the nut and indent it so it cant back off



Im gonna guess the breaking of the splines is 60 to 0 while still yanking forward from the 4000 pound barge continuing its path as newton intended

CV axle had a lot of play on its joints, the grease was black and smelled burnt itself it was weird, the splines on the axle were worn around, I almost wonder if it didnt jump the splines and the nut was enough force to keep it from doing that until that unrelenting force situation maybe?

Oh, and initially I had no park or neutral, all gears except reverse were forward gears and reverse was a smelly neutral

After sitting for a month or so, the park and neutral came back to normal but reverse doesnt move

 

[Schurkey]

I have trouble believing that there's no seal in the steering knuckle that would ride on the seal surface of the CV joint.

How'd they keep contamination out of the wheel bearings without a seal there? Sealed wheel bearings? I guess that'd work.

The "barb" on the pipe that the hose is clamped-to is a ridge that the hose is supposed to butt up against. It doesn't go inside the hose.

Uff Da. 60 mph into Reverse will definitely cause some damage.

 

[AuroraGirl]

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my bad i mis understood what you meant this here is a good representation so the thing sits in there and the cv axle firmly sets up behind it but the knuckle makes sure its not crushing it or whatever, I thought you meant a seal that would be on the cv side haha. almost like an axle tube to shaft on a d44

 

[AuroraGirl]

I have trouble believing that there's no seal in the steering knuckle that would ride on the seal surface of the CV joint.

How'd they keep contamination out of the wheel bearings without a seal there? Sealed wheel bearings? I guess that'd work.

The "barb" on the pipe that the hose is clamped-to is a ridge that the hose is supposed to butt up against. It doesn't go inside the hose.

Uff Da. 60 mph into Reverse will definitely cause some damage.

oh. well the clamp still failed and the hose just rests around it but i could push it off by just pushiung it away,

 

[Schurkey]

Blue casting has a silver ring inside, and inside that is a darker, grey piece just above the splines.

I don't see that grey piece in your photo of the broken splines. I think the grey piece is a rubber seal, probably with a steel outer-diameter sleeve. That seal would protect the seal surface of the CV joint, and keep road splash 'n' dust out of the bearing assembly.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Blue casting has a silver ring inside, and inside that is a darker, grey piece just above the splines.

I don't see that grey piece in your photo of the broken splines. I think the grey piece is a rubber seal, probably with a steel outer-diameter sleeve. That seal would protect the seal surface of the CV joint, and keep road splash 'n' dust out of the bearing assembly.

I do recall it being possible that yanked out with the axle when i removed it. It was something I had to rock the studs forward and back to unstick the splines where it had come to interference-rest. Usually when I pull off my cv nut the axle is a small palm shove or a rotate the spindle side to side while pushing the center to get out at worst. I havent had the shaft off in a long time tho. I can check my garage its still sitting where I put it and the cv axle is there too. the one boot popped open and I wasnt about to deal with cv axle grease thats been around the block. imagine every surface in the garage would have it in no time

 

[454cid]

well it wasnt reallly just rust... hehe

In may or june or something I was at a stop sign, peeled out in a left turn, into boost, but It was gravel in the road, so traction control pulled timing, cut injector pulse width, but car has boost too... boost bypass was accidently unplugged during this time so car couldnt dump boost and sway bar had broken link so there was more severe angle for something like an OEM cv axle of 226k miles accelerating, traction control, severe angle, left turn(driver cv shown) and during all this fun stuff, I was of course WOT because I thats how I drive and there was traffic to beat

Loud bang and car shudders a wee bit, we keep driving since it was on a highway now only had a short distance till turn off again. Turn off, Car has accelerating issues but it was electronic not cv.
Decide gonna baby it home since I had all forward gears it seemed, had scan tool to monitor trans temps. I was driving for a little bit again, and there was something else that happened before. The shifter cable got yanked /bound up a bit and was out of adjustment or something, so when I put it into gear by feel like I normally do, i didnt notice that it was saying I was in "2" on the cluster despite the detents had me at D. When driving about 60 steady I saw Oh damn Im in 2, shifted upward 2 detents and thats when the money happened

Car slammed into reverse at 60.. that was about 20 feet of burnt rubber whew but that was a loud BAM

Baby car still to home it was working somehow
oh and i forgot to mention that I also had an overfilled trans because of the thermostatic element was causing the side cover to be misregulated while running, so the dipstick appeared low because the trans was filling the side cover too full from the pan.
And we had some pan gifts:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

that yellow rags contents were wiped from the pan to the left. I also did a trans fluid change less than 1k miles before the RIP moments. So not attributable to clutch mud... rip
The pipes on the left are all bent/no longer sealed in the accumulators(shifts were weird, the fluid pressure was bleeding off in the pan), and the differential lube pipe had a hose clamp/hose fail and it was also doing that, you can see the barb is visible which means it wasnt a sealed lube path eithere.

I cant be sure but I also have a missing flexplate weight but it may have somehow broke off the flexplate(?) in the past or that day.

I dont have a good photo of how the CV axle mates the wheel bearing but they dont use a seal for that platform, it just metal on metal interface that fills the recesss with the cone of the cv axle and then you torque the nut and indent it so it cant back off



Im gonna guess the breaking of the splines is 60 to 0 while still yanking forward from the 4000 pound barge continuing its path as newton intended

CV axle had a lot of play on its joints, the grease was black and smelled burnt itself it was weird, the splines on the axle were worn around, I almost wonder if it didnt jump the splines and the nut was enough force to keep it from doing that until that unrelenting force situation maybe?

Oh, and initially I had no park or neutral, all gears except reverse were forward gears and reverse was a smelly neutral

After sitting for a month or so, the park and neutral came back to normal but reverse doesnt move

What vehicle? I don't recognize that transmission.

I once accidently shifted at TH400 into reverse while going 45-ish. It's been so long that I don't recall exactly what happened, but I suspect it may not have actually engaged.

 

[AuroraGirl]

What vehicle? I don't recognize that transmission.

I once accidently shifted at TH400 into reverse while going 45-ish. It's been so long that I don't recall exactly what happened, but I suspect it may not have actually engaged.

4t65e-HD