upgrade for 4l80e maybe?

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df2x4

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Does anyone have actual pics of a Trucool 40k fitting in one of these trucks? I'd like to go that route - I have one on my burb - but I'm stuggling to see how it would fit without modding things, especially with the aux pusher fan up front.

A member here has a company that sells notched hood latch brackets to fit the 40K, he's got some pictures up.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/notched-hood-latch-bracket-for-tru-cool-40k-installation.60885/

I'm also on team M7B though, I think it's a large enough cooler for most people and it fits in the factory location with minimal trimming of the stock AUX cooler brackets. This is the cooler I went with when I swapped the 4L80E into my red truck. More info:

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-factory-auxiliary-trans-cooler-upgrade.18104/

Substitute the TruCool M7B for the B&M coolers mentioned in that thread, it's the exact same product made by the same company for a lot less money.

How big is that M7B cooler?

8"x11"x1.5", 20,500 BTU rating. Here's a link to the specs on the TruCool website.

https://www.trucool.com/products/tru-cool-lpd
 

Supercharged111

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A member here has a company that sells notched hood latch brackets to fit the 40K, he's got some pictures up.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/notched-hood-latch-bracket-for-tru-cool-40k-installation.60885/

I'm also on team M7B though, I think it's a large enough cooler for most people and it fits in the factory location with minimal trimming of the stock AUX cooler brackets. This is the cooler I went with when I swapped the 4L80E into my red truck. More info:

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-factory-auxiliary-trans-cooler-upgrade.18104/

Substitute the TruCool M7B for the B&M coolers mentioned in that thread, it's the exact same product made by the same company for a lot less money.



8"x11"x1.5", 20,500 BTU rating. Here's a link to the specs on the TruCool website.

https://www.trucool.com/products/tru-cool-lpd

Hmm, well I think I finally know how to characterize the junkyard cooler I put on my dually last May.

You must be registered for see images attach


I've been wondering how to find another for my 1500 aside from dumb luck. Thanks.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Extra capacity isn't bad for a transmission, but it's also possible you pay top dollar for no return.



How big is that M7B cooler?
About 1' square and maybe 1.5" thick.

Edit- Just noticed the dimensions posted a couple posts above. 11 x 8.5 x 1.5 sounds right at the core. ~1' square overall including the fittings.
 

L31MaxExpress

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A member here has a company that sells notched hood latch brackets to fit the 40K, he's got some pictures up.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/notched-hood-latch-bracket-for-tru-cool-40k-installation.60885/

I'm also on team M7B though, I think it's a large enough cooler for most people and it fits in the factory location with minimal trimming of the stock AUX cooler brackets. This is the cooler I went with when I swapped the 4L80E into my red truck. More info:

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-factory-auxiliary-trans-cooler-upgrade.18104/

Substitute the TruCool M7B for the B&M coolers mentioned in that thread, it's the exact same product made by the same company for a lot less money.



8"x11"x1.5", 20,500 BTU rating. Here's a link to the specs on the TruCool website.

https://www.trucool.com/products/tru-cool-lpd

Mounting a M7B on an Express/Savanna van is even easier. No cutting of the mounting bracket or hood latch at all. Drill the pop rivets out. The two upper holes line up perfectly. Drill two new holes at the bottom where the cooler flange intersects the legs. Pop rivet or bolt it into place. I went to AN lines but could have simply used reducer bushings and re-used the stock quick connect lines.
 

Reluctanse

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Man I've got the Tru-Cool 40k on my 07 burb and it is worth the hassle. Towing 5k loads up grades in 105* temps, engine got to 220-230, trans never even peaked 185. I did some engineering design work last night (aka stared at it with a beer in hand for 5-10 min), and I think I can figure out how to make one work.

A member here has a company that sells notched hood latch brackets to fit the 40K, he's got some pictures up.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/notched-hood-latch-bracket-for-tru-cool-40k-installation.60885/
I saw that yesterday, looks like a slick product. Problem is I can't see how it would work with the pusher fan.....
 

L31MaxExpress

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Man I've got the Tru-Cool 40k on my 07 burb and it is worth the hassle. Towing 5k loads up grades in 105* temps, engine got to 220-230, trans never even peaked 185. I did some engineering design work last night (aka stared at it with a beer in hand for 5-10 min), and I think I can figure out how to make one work.


I saw that yesterday, looks like a slick product. Problem is I can't see how it would work with the pusher fan.....
Towing 6K in 105F my trans does not peak 165F and the engine stays under 200F. AC blows 38-40F at idle and drops to the lower 30s going down the road. The 40K not plumbed through the radiator in front of the condenser sharply increases the ac head pressure and thus vent temps up at idle. 40K was NOT benificial for me. Sounds like your suburban has electric fans on it. My engine would hit 230-240F engine temps towing with the NNBS dual electric fans and I corrected that putting the clutch fan and shroud back on.
 

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Do you have the cold bypass dealie in yours? I'm wondering for days when it's not hot AF and miserable out and when you're not loaded if it would even get up to temp at all? My upgraded cooler in the dually didn't cut the mustard loaded when it was 90+ out this past summer. Previously I was living in blissful ignorance with no gauge.
I have one on my 2011 Suburban. Without the bypass it would run about 60 degrees above ambient unloaded and never got over about 180 degrees loaded even pulling through mountains in 100 degree ambient temps. In the winter here in Oregon though, it almost never got to even 100 degree trans temps. Now that I have the bypass on there, it still takes a while to get up to even ~150 degrees and I have no idea what it will do loaded in the summer. Time will tell. I have a deep pan on my 4L80 in my squarebnody, but could not fit a trucool in there horizontally. You might be able to fit one in a GMT400 or squarebody by putting it in vertically, but I don't know.
 

L31MaxExpress

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I have one on my 2011 Suburban. Without the bypass it would run about 60 degrees above ambient unloaded and never got over about 180 degrees loaded even pulling through mountains in 100 degree ambient temps. In the winter here in Oregon though, it almost never got to even 100 degree trans temps. Now that I have the bypass on there, it still takes a while to get up to even ~150 degrees and I have no idea what it will do loaded in the summer. Time will tell. I have a deep pan on my 4L80 in my squarebnody, but could not fit a trucool in there horizontally. You might be able to fit one in a GMT400 or squarebody by putting it in vertically, but I don't know.
Mine runs about 110-120F in winter, close to where it ran stock. I have considered a bypass as well but we do not have too many cold days here.
 

RDF1

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Do you have the cold bypass dealie in yours? I'm wondering for days when it's not hot AF and miserable out and when you're not loaded if it would even get up to temp at all? My upgraded cooler in the dually didn't cut the mustard loaded when it was 90+ out this past summer. Previously I was living in blissful ignorance with no gauge.

I dont. I had too many issues with the Bypass causing overheating issues on other trucks so i just deal with it.

Driven my trucks for years with the 40k only and it does take a few mintues to get trans temps up for Lockup to work but if its cold outside i always go crank truck and let it warm up before driving anyway so its not a issue.
When it was in the 10-20* range last year trans temps would stay around 80-90* so it was never a problem.
Towing heavy the trans very rarely gets up to 150*. Hauling that 40' conex box a couple weekends ago the trans temps on the dash stayed under 150 for the whole trip but i have TCC engaging in 2nd 3rd and 4th in tow/haul so it shouldnt ever build heat.

Hauling 40,000# last year the trans temps would get up to 200* going up the on ramp to interstate but i held it to the floor. It takes a minute getting that kinda load moving up hill haha. Once it locked up temps dropped to 135-140* for the rest of the trip.
 
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