upgrade for 4l80e maybe?

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RDF1

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There really isnt a reason to go to a deeper pan. If it does heat up it will take longer to cool off.
Running a TruCool 40K is a much better investment.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Supercharged111

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There really isnt a reason to go to a deeper pan. If it does heat up it will take longer to cool off.
Running a TruCool 40K is a much better investment.

Do you have the cold bypass dealie in yours? I'm wondering for days when it's not hot AF and miserable out and when you're not loaded if it would even get up to temp at all? My upgraded cooler in the dually didn't cut the mustard loaded when it was 90+ out this past summer. Previously I was living in blissful ignorance with no gauge.
 

Reluctanse

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Does anyone have actual pics of a Trucool 40k fitting in one of these trucks? I'd like to go that route - I have one on my burb - but I'm stuggling to see how it would fit without modding things, especially with the aux pusher fan up front.
 

Supercharged111

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Does anyone have actual pics of a Trucool 40k fitting in one of these trucks? I'd like to go that route - I have one on my burb - but I'm stuggling to see how it would fit without modding things, especially with the aux pusher fan up front.

I'm gonna go with not well. Plus I may need it all to play nice with a front mount if I get my way. Without the pusher fan you can remove the center core support. . . support (?) and it opens up quite a bit of space. My friend did that but he also did hood pins.
 

L31MaxExpress

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I'm gonna go with not well. Plus I may need it all to play nice with a front mount if I get my way. Without the pusher fan you can remove the center core support. . . support (?) and it opens up quite a bit of space. My friend did that but he also did hood pins.
I had a 40K on its own and it made my ac terrible at slower speeds around town. Not worth it. My trans stays cooler anyway with the in-radiator cooler and a M7B than it ever did with the 40K alone. I put a Moroso deep pan on mine because I hated the leaky stock junk stamped steel pan that had a seized drain plug. The added fluid keeps my fluid cooler when the van is pulling hard with an unlocked converter. To each their own.
 

Supercharged111

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I had a 40K on its own and it made my ac terrible at slower speeds around town. Not worth it. My trans stays cooler anyway with the in-radiator cooler and a M7B than it ever did with the 40K alone. I put a Moroso deep pan on mine because I hated the leaky stock junk stamped steel pan that had a seized drain plug. The added fluid keeps my fluid cooler when the van is pulling hard with an unlocked converter. To each their own.

Are you able to quantify the difference in fluid temp attributed to just the pan?
 

99xcss4

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What are you guys' transmission temps looking like that makes you want a deeper pan?
I do not know what mine is that is part of the reason I am interested in that pan it has a bung for a temp sensor and I do not understand how extra capacity could be a bad thing
 

L31MaxExpress

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Are you able to quantify the difference in fluid temp attributed to just the pan?
No because the pan went on with a custom restalles stock diameter converter and new aluminum radiator at the same time the 383 went in. When the converter is unlocked it does take a noticeably longer period of time to heat the fluid. Once the converter relocks the fluid temps drop like a rock even with the added fluid. I drove it 10-15 miles nudging 500 rpm of converter slip the other day because of a burned plug wire causing a P0304 and it did not get above 160F. I disabled misfire monitoring and drove the rest of the way home and the fluid quickly dropped to 125F.
 

Supercharged111

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I do not know what mine is that is part of the reason I am interested in that pan it has a bung for a temp sensor and I do not understand how extra capacity could be a bad thing

Extra capacity isn't bad for a transmission, but it's also possible you pay top dollar for no return.

No because the pan went on with a custom restalles stock diameter converter and new aluminum radiator at the same time the 383 went in. When the converter is unlocked it does take a noticeably longer period of time to heat the fluid. Once the converter relocks the fluid temps drop like a rock even with the added fluid. I drove it 10-15 miles nudging 500 rpm of converter slip the other day because of a burned plug wire causing a P0304 and it did not get above 160F. I disabled misfire monitoring and drove the rest of the way home and the fluid quickly dropped to 125F.

How big is that M7B cooler?
 
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