Truck tries to drive through the brakes

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Schurkey

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^^^ Not exactly.

The mounts were an ancient design, and should never have been used. Big engines made it worse, and sooner...but even a 283 2bbl would rip them. Not, perhaps from outright torque, but some torque combined with the rubber rotting due to oil saturation from engine oil leaks.

The typical scenario involved a sharp left turn from a stop, or very slow speed. Driver adds some throttle, maybe to get out of the way of oncoming traffic. Engine lifts from both torque, and centrifugal force. The linkage-style throttle control (not a cable throttle control) would pull the throttle open as the engine lifted--adding torque, which increased the lift, which pulled the throttle open more...you get the idea.

The last thing that happened before things got REALLY expensive was that the hose for the power brake booster went taut, and then pulled the check-valve out of the booster grommet. All the vacuum in the booster instantly vented; and now you've got a WFO engine and no power brakes. Grandma didn't stand a chance.

The recall involved NOT installing new mounts (of any design, never mind an improved design.) They ran a cable with just a little slack, around the left upper control arm cross-shaft, attached to a special bracket that bolted to the left exhaust manifold. The defective/broken mounts were never touched--they just strapped the engine down so it couldn't lift very far.

Not GMs finest moment.

Newer vehicles-- before or just after the recall of the older vehicles--got reinforced mounts with a "safety tab" that supposedly interlocked and prevented a torn mount from allowing the engine to lift. I knew a guy with a hot-rod Camaro that would go under his car now and then, to straighten-out that safety tab, because he was beating the hell out of it and it'd distort. The safety-tab mounts were backwards-compatible with the previous mounts, but installing them was not part of the recall.

The wonderful clamshell mounts came later still, and put a real end to the safety situation with the engine lifting. And--bonus--being more enclosed, they didn't get as much oil dripped on the rubber which was a partial-cause of the rubber deterioration which caused the mount to separate in the first place.
 
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PJones96

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Is it possible that there's an issue with the ECU controlling the IACV? I think it's odd that there's no CEL or DTCs. I've had the truck running with the hood open multiple times and I've never seen the engine lay over or move enough to pull the throttle cable. I'll watch it from a cold start and see how much it moves. The throttle body felt as precise as could be. It closed tight enough hold the cleaner I was using. I cleaned the IAC passage.
 

Caman96

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Just curious, what is your idle in Park, at temp. For the record, my idle fluctuates a bit too.
 

pressureangle

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Smells like brake booster to me. Any throttle plate movement or TPS failure would show up on data. Fuel won't change idle much like that without air. A leaking booster or wobbly vacuum hose could conceivably have an intermittent leak.
 

Caman96

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Smells like brake booster to me. Any throttle plate movement or TPS failure would show up on data. Fuel won't change idle much like that without air. A leaking booster or wobbly vacuum hose could conceivably have an intermittent leak.
Yeah maybe, but initially he didn’t post TB info, so that’s why I suspected TB which can cause surging.
 

PJones96

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Just took an hour drive on some 2-lane. Speed limit varied from 35-55. The truck almost acted like the cruise was set. If I was going 45 or faster I could take my foot off the accelerator and give only minimum input with the pedal to keep it at 45 or so. I had the ac on and i could feel the truck increase/decrease in speed as the compressor clutch kicked on and off. It took either a significant hill or brake pedal to slow the truck. Going downhill, it was a runaway; it would gain rpm and engine speed as long as I let it. Had to use a lot of brake to reign it in. The brakes will stop the truck, I don't want to sound like I'm being totally reckless.

I backed up my driveway and in reverse I don't have the same problem. It developed a miss as I was in reverse. My driveway is probably 150ft long and I let it idle most of the way.

I think I've confused everyone enough at this point so I'll finish up by asking how to verify if the brake booster is leaking. I have a lot of pedal travel but I was told that was just how the brakes feel on an OBS GM truck.
 

PJones96

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I tried the vice grip test. The pedal feel never changed so maybe I didn't have the pliers tight enough? Caman96 asked me what my idle speed is when the engine is warm so I hooked up my scanner for a drive through the neighborhood. The tach says I'm idling at 950rpm. The scan tool says I'm idling at 680+/-. What does that mean?

I'm going to unclamp the vacuum hose the booster and shove a bolt into the hose to see if that closes it off better. The way I had the vice grips setup there was no change to the way the truck acted while driving. Even going 25 down my street it wanted to increase speed on it's own.

It did idle without blipping. So maybe that's a cold start thing only.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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The tach says I'm idling at 950rpm. The scan tool says I'm idling at 680+/-. What does that mean?
Well, the PCM sees the RPM sign wave signal from the Crank or Cam Sensor through the ICM, which converts them to digital pulses, then the PCM sends timing pulses to the ICM which sends them to the Coil. The Tach signal is sent from the Coil. If the Tach is accurate, then something between the PCM and the Coil is increasing the pulses to it. It seems to me, your ICM is the culprit. Just guessing here, YMMV
 
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