Torsion bar swap and crank

[offroadtahoe]

Are ball joint spacers a good idea to get some space back between my bump stops? I'm + cambered way out as well, so much so that I'm getting a wander in the wheel. Is this fixable with said ball joint spacers and cam plate kit?

check out my post in this thread https://www.gmt400.com/threads/2-4-...or-96-k2500-8600gvw-8-lug.66717/#post-1399311

and this thread https://www.gmt400.com/threads/control-arms-for-lifted-trucks.65842/page-2#post-1381142

you also will need longer shock's if you crank or ride will be rough
as far as t-bar's I'm running k3500 srw,
I ran skyjacker uca with bj mounted on top then ran kryponite uca with bj mounted on bottom the krypnoite had about an inch less space between the bump stop but ran way better on small/big bumps.both ran with the cam plates maxed into the frame but was left with a little postive camber on the passenger side cranked to get it even and alot on the drivers even max cranked on the drivers side could not get it even had to purchase maxx cams to gain crank and get adjustment even (ball joint angles where about the same) between skyjacker and kryptonite uca's but with a ball joint spacer small/big bumps got ALOT smoother but they also more variable's bj angles change uca angle, what size is perfect 1" 1.5" 2" how much adjustment you get in camber/how much you have to be cranked also if you add any type of weight in front winch batteries etc. it will ride less rough so softer bars could do the same

 

[KansasOBS]

@offroadtahoe Do you know if there are any shorter upper arms?

I set the toe when I did my lift, and it wasn't as much of an issue on my old crappy tires, but I need to get it by the alignment shop, it kind of wanders as 9812vDually mentioned with his. I don't have a dampener on, though dont really suspect that would fix a wander.

Looks like I have positive camber, but all the way in on adjustment. Not sure if a change in the caster will make much difference. Kinda frustrated with this nonsense, as it seems to be a general issue, dunno why RC didn't design their kit better. It would probably align kinda alright, though also not sure if they will even be able to move anything. Half crossing my mind to section an 1/8" or a 1/4" out of the upper arms to shorten them, or just rip it all out, and go SAS, but really wanted to take a trip this summer.

Just seems like too much positive camber, when the arms are already bottomed all the way in, and as the susupension works, it would increase it. Maybe I am overthinking it all.

Sorry 9812vDually for kind of derailing your thread.

 

[offroadtahoe]

@offroadtahoe Do you know if there are any shorter upper arms?

I set the toe when I did my lift, and it wasn't as much of an issue on my old crappy tires, but I need to get it by the alignment shop, it kind of wanders as 9812vDually mentioned with his. I don't have a dampener on, though dont really suspect that would fix a wander.

Looks like I have positive camber, but all the way in on adjustment. Not sure if a change in the caster will make much difference. Kinda frustrated with this nonsense, as it seems to be a general issue, dunno why RC didn't design their kit better. It would probably align kinda alright, though also not sure if they will even be able to move anything. Half crossing my mind to section an 1/8" or a 1/4" out of the upper arms to shorten them, or just rip it all out, and go SAS, but really wanted to take a trip this summer.

Just seems like too much positive camber, when the arms are already bottomed all the way in, and as the susupension works, it would increase it. Maybe I am overthinking it all.

Sorry 9812vDually for kind of derailing your thread.

A dampener does help with wandering and bump's specifically the bilstein version
There are a few thing's you could try.

Yes as suspension goes downward it would increase postive camber.Are you cranked to 6" how far from the bump stops? you could crank more and it will get you back in range to have adjustment for caster and to 0* camber but might also get you too close to the bump stops,If you didn't want to crank more you could also run the stock upper control arms and see if that helps,if adjustment has to be brought all the way out you could use a spacer at that point to put you back in range and keep you off the bumpstop.


*also want to add that these exist but kryptonite upper ball joint has more articulation not sure how much but this is a good comparsion https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-ball-joint-vs-uniball https://www.ebay.com/itm/296004276506

 

[Sean Buick 76]

I would do a 4” lift kit to correct your front end angles and 50-60 psi should be plenty. 120 psi is gonna run terrible down the road.

 

[KansasOBS]

A dampener does help with wandering and bump's specifically the bilstein version
There are a few thing's you could try.

Yes as suspension goes downward it would increase postive camber.Are you cranked to 6" how far from the bump stops? you could crank more and it will get you back in range to have adjustment for caster and to 0* camber but might also get you too close to the bump stops,If you didn't want to crank more you could also run the stock upper control arms and see if that helps,if adjustment has to be brought all the way out you could use a spacer at that point to put you back in range and keep you off the bumpstop.


*also want to add that these exist but kryptonite upper ball joint has more articulation not sure how much but this is a good comparsion https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-ball-joint-vs-uniball https://www.ebay.com/itm/296004276506

Thank you. Might have to grab a dampener, to see if it helps then. It had been crossing my mind just to go with the RC V2 dampener, since its set up to go on their kit, I don't like giving them any more money, but it is what it is. Really should have just listened to all the advice to SAS it. Now I'm buried in the kit, a full differential rebuild, new ring and pinion, and the reamer for the spindles, along with other nonsense.

Am about a 1/4", maybe less to the little bumpstops that go on the kit. Also running the stock upper arms, about the only stock parts left up there. New joints, and bushings in them. I have them pushed in towards the frame as far as they will go. Bringing one end out for -/+ caster would rotate the upper joint inward, though not sure if enough. Need to just stop running my mouth, and stick a level on the wheel.

It seems like a spacer would bring the upper arm more level, which would make it longer, and give it even more more positive camber. More lift would be nice, but don't really want the CV joints at more of an angle.

Think an old guy out here has the books for that the specs should be on alignment, thinking about just grabbing a gauge, and seeing where its all at.

 

[offroadtahoe]

Thank you. Might have to grab a dampener, to see if it helps then. It had been crossing my mind just to go with the RC V2 dampener, since its set up to go on their kit, I don't like giving them any more money, but it is what it is. Really should have just listened to all the advice to SAS it. Now I'm buried in the kit, a full differential rebuild, new ring and pinion, and the reamer for the spindles, along with other nonsense.

Am about a 1/4", maybe less to the little bumpstops that go on the kit. Also running the stock upper arms, about the only stock parts left up there. New joints, and bushings in them. I have them pushed in towards the frame as far as they will go. Bringing one end out for -/+ caster would rotate the upper joint inward, though not sure if enough. Need to just stop running my mouth, and stick a level on the wheel.

It seems like a spacer would bring the upper arm more level, which would make it longer, and give it even more more positive camber. More lift would be nice, but don't really want the CV joints at more of an angle.

Think an old guy out here has the books for that the specs should be on alignment, thinking about just grabbing a gauge, and seeing where its all at.

SAS would have it's own set of problem's and ride would be rough only way to know for sure though would have been to know people with said setup's and to drive around in both setups to see what you like more between all the variables aesthetic's,ride and turning etc.pro's and con's to everything.

yes it seems like a spacer would only make it worse.

hmm only real option seems to decrank a little and you might get more bump stop space and might gain aligment or shorten the stock arm's best bet is to try and see what works best.
Could you post a pic of the postive camber to get an idea how bad it is?

something like this could help trying to keep the same settings you have now and getting camber/caster in spec https://www.maxpowerautos.com/product/bel4950/


also you could always test how bad the stock axle binding is and get away with extended cv axles,check out the video i posted in this thread https://www.gmt400.com/threads/trackmotive-cv-joints.67478/#post-1413472