The Stupid Interior Questions Thread

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sewlow

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it may have been mentioned earlier in this thread but...whats a good cheap sound deadner/insulator? and about how much do i need for a reg cab and what are the important places to add it.

Thanks
Geoff

Missed this. I buy in bulk. Haven't really measured to know exactly how much is required. I just 'ballpark' the cost into the estimate. I make the $$$ on the labour. I'll get some decent measurements to you tomorrow. Along with some pix.
I like 'Fatmat'.
 

sewlow

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Missed this. I buy in bulk. Haven't really measured to know exactly how much is required. I just 'ballpark' the cost into the estimate. I make the $$$ on the labour. I'll get some decent measurements to you tomorrow. Along with some pix.
I like 'Fatmat'.

This should do your floor & the back wall. Figure another 10 feet for just the inner doors, & that again for the roof. Probably have some smaller pieces left to do the pillars & the kicks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FatMat-50Sq...t=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item2c65e5a6e1&vxp=mtr

This X2 for the ceiling & doors. With enough left to do the 'A' pillars
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FatMat-25Sq...t=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item1c27dacbc3&vxp=mtr

Better to have too much, than not enough!

Some pix.
Floor.

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Back wall.

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Roof.

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I also put 2 layers of 1/8" closed cell on the floor. 2 thin layers fit better than 1, 1/4" layer. On the back wall, I put 1/2'' c.c. foam.

Breaking the skin on the foam.

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I think that I'm going to put a 1/8" layer of c.c on the roof. That, & 3 strips like the roof, plus a full covering over that on the inside of the outer doors.
As it is right now, the dif. is night & day! Plus the truck just feels more solid. Way less rattles & road noise. Worth every penny!
 
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Bearcat91

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Damn thats alot more than i thought! Think doing just the floor and back wall will make much of a diff? the sound im trying to get rid of is road noise. Also heard most road noise comes from doors so maybe ill do doors and floor...
 

sewlow

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You can do this in stages as you can afford it. The pix above are from my '97 & it was done in stages 'cause it's my DD. Can't have it down for too long.
I'd do the doors first, but they are the biggest PITA to do out of all of it. Not so much the actual install of the deadener, but because of the re & re of the door panels & inners. Most of the road noise does come from the doors.
Then after that, you can do what you can, as you feel like it. After doing the doors, the floor will take the longest. That took me 6 hours from start to finish. (But i also added 2X 1/8" of closed cell in that time.)
The links I posted include free shipping within the U.S. That doesn't help me up here in The Great White North. Shipping gets expensive, buying in small amounts, so I buy the stuff by the 2 roll box, 2 at a time. That's enough to do about 3 standard cab trucks, or 2 extra-cabs, or 1.5 Shoebox Chevy's.
 

Thefarmboy04

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O.k. have a ? I went to buy bulbs for where your feet go when you open the door because the person I bought it from took them out. So when I get to autozone to buy the bulbs they can't tell me what style or what kind of bulbs go there (go figure right lol) so I was wondering if anyone can tell me what the bulb # is that I need an thanks!!

194 or the big ones with the 194 base
 

77Concours

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I'm changing the light bulbs (swapping to LEDs really) in the courtesy lights in my doors. Does the panel need to be loosened or taken off completely or does just the lense pop off? How do you do either?
 

bow61509

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if your talking about the lens on the door panel near the rear of it they just pop off take a flathead and pry gently on the part closest to the rear of the door and it should just pop right out

Sent from my static android
 
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77Concours

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if your talking about the lens on the door panel near the rear of it they just pop off take a flathead and pet gently on the part closest to the rear of the door and it should just pop right out

Sent from my static android

Yep thats what I'm talking about! I'll go give it a shot now. Thanks!
 

1badgmc

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