The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

[Supercharged111]

ehemm, excuse me.

I took my 98 5.7 to a shop to check the cam rtd. They had no clue. Went back and the mech claimed he had to redline it, tried x3 till it overheated “the computer commands it” anyway they blew it up I swapped motors whatever. My question is why, how, what were they trying to do? What scantool process commanded them to overrev my 5.7?

Crank relearn, i.e. Cam to crank calibration. But it should work instantaneously. The PCM should interrupt your attempt to redline it around 4000 with a fart, you lift off the throttle, and it's done. There is no overheating a blowing up required, find a new mechanic that's not a total r3t@rd.

 

[drifterwanb666]

Hey guys, i havent found threads that show any similarities to my issue, so im here cause i hope its a stupid issue.

Ive gone thru 4 spiders, 2 sets of plugs, caps, rotors, and wires, the coil driver module, coil, 2 ECUs, and ive recrimpt the terminals for the spider injectors. Mind you this has been MONTHS ive been chasing this problem, and its gotten progressively worse.

Issue is, the truck will start up and idle fine. Warm up, go to leave and i can go for so many miles until i start losing cylinders, then i get a P0300 or a p0304 code, i keep driving and the problem goes away. Probably after a minute or two. Truck will drive fine, i have power and all that, and then like a switch itll **** up again after maybe another few minutes.
Im at witts end. Trucks a 96 k1500 tahoe LT.

 

[drifterwanb666]

Hey guys, i havent found threads that show any similarities to my issue, so im here cause i hope its a stupid issue.

Ive gone thru 4 spiders, 2 sets of plugs, caps, rotors, and wires, the coil driver module, coil, 2 ECUs, and ive recrimpt the terminals for the spider injectors. Mind you this has been MONTHS ive been chasing this problem, and its gotten progressively worse.

Issue is, the truck will start up and idle fine. Warm up, go to leave and i can go for so many miles until i start losing cylinders, then i get a P0300 or a p0304 code, i keep driving and the problem goes away. Probably after a minute or two. Truck will drive fine, i have power and all that, and then like a switch itll **** up again after maybe another few minutes.
Im at witts end. Trucks a 96 k1500 tahoe LT.

I will say ive replaced the spider the first two times and the problem stayed away for maybe one to two weeks. First time the truck acted good for a month. Last time it lasted maybe 20 miles. I dont know if thats a correlation im trying to give all the info i can.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Did you put thermal paste under your ignition module? Not dielectric grease, but actual heat sink paste? You need a dab to help transfer the heat to the distributor base so it can be dissipated. But this problem doesn't usually fade and return. Once your module heats up the problem typically stays, but it's worth checking.

How does the engine wiring harness look? Is it crunchy? Does it have rub marks?

If the only P030x code you're getting is a P0304, the problem is with your #4 cylinder. If your cap, spark plug wire, and plug are all new, then the problem isn't in the ignition system. I'd check your injector wiring from the ECU to the spider.

 

[drifterwanb666]

Did you put thermal paste under your ignition module? Not dielectric grease, but actual heat sink paste? You need a dab to help transfer the heat to the distributor base so it can be dissipated. But this problem doesn't usually fade and return. Once your module heats up the problem typically stays, but it's worth checking.

How does the engine wiring harness look? Is it crunchy? Does it have rub marks?

If the only P030x code you're getting is a P0304, the problem is with your #4 cylinder. If your cap, spark plug wire, and plug are all new, then the problem isn't in the ignition system. I'd check your injector wiring from the ECU to the spider.

I have sorta suspended the harness best i can so it wont rub anything. I know im getting voltage at the pins at the injectors when its idling right. Ill split the harness open and trace wires, make sure thier all good since im there.

 

[drifterwanb666]

I have sorta suspended the harness best i can so it wont rub anything. I know im getting voltage at the pins at the injectors when its idling right. Ill split the harness open and trace wires, make sure thier all good since im there.

Checked harness, all looks good, angrily enough. The coil and bracket with module was pulled from a running truck. Am i missing something? I dont know what else to do besides reolacing every sensor and letting that parts cannon start blowin my bank account away.

 

[drifterwanb666]

These are current codes.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

I'm wondering if he's thinking ''Tonawanda'' where these engines are built? Weren't some BBCs labeled like that?

Most of the engines I've seen with this marking were Big blocks. However I have an early production 400 small block, and it has these mylar stickers on the valve covers too.

 

[Treble]

Morning guys-

Bozos was kind enough to overnight me 8- ACDelco R45TS plugs. Of course 3 of the 8 boxes were ripped. Plugs look fine I believe no damage had occurred in shipping.

Are these plugs short enough to work with the chinese headers? They are not as short as the Bosch platinums that we're last in-

 

[Bouncerboytimmy]

I Have a 98 Silverado 5.7 CSFI with a rough idle, it was popping the P1345 code and I replaced plugs, wires, cam sensor, cap, and Rotor.

My scan tool is showing a cyl #1 timing offset of around 20deg, which jumps around a bit but hangs around there. the previous rotor and cap nearly fell apart when I took them off, previous wires had electrical tape on them (like that's gonna fix it) and the plugs were rusted (and red/orange!?). clearly needed servicing but im not sure which direction to go, I advanced the timing by one tooth and it ran way worse so I put it back. should I look into the ignition coil? should I look into fuel delivery or the timing chain? which direction should I go?