Tach stepper motor replacement info needed.

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Yeti_Owner

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I'm just guessing here - it makes more sense, but then again, I'm used to imports, so the "GM Way" is pretty alien to me.
 

great white

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Older GM clusters could be changed by swapping out a resistor.

The later GM clusters are a bit more electronic so lord knows what's going on in there.

Makes me glad my diesel 98 leans more towards the previous generation.......sometimes.

Older Fords like the fox bodies were even easier; they had a 4,6,8 cyl switch inside the cluster....wouldn't that be nice?
 

great white

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It's a '98.

Yes, but gassers and diesels are different....diesel tach takes it's signal off the alternator windings and I believe the gasser gets it's signal from the PCM....

Change the alternator and leave the gasser pulley on a diesel and the tach goes wrong. Lots of people miss swapping the pulley on a diesel when they get a new alternator and then can't figure out why the tach is screwed....
 

sewlow

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Yup!
Whomever designed the whole internal door system in these trucks never did so with the idea that maybe, just maybe, one day, someone may have to work on them!
Built for production line assembly ease, not for maintenance ease!
 

Half Assed

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I don't think the motor itself is the issue. There is probably a chip on the board that actually handles the interpolation of the ignition pulses to the needle movement. Show me a photo of the back of the cluster, please. It needs to be pretty decent resolution.

here are some HR pics of the back of my 97 yukon V8 cluster (100mph)


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going into the board. Tach is the first 4 wires on the right


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Yeti_Owner

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HA - you rock!

Ok here's the breakdown from what I'm seeing:

I would roughly (very roughly) "CTS9645" is the booger in question, unless "836" is, but there are problems here..

Ugh...the issue is, it's all obsolete junk with no modern crossover. I'm having no luck pulling up datasheets on those chip numbers. What we are *really* looking for is the line air-core gauge driver chip. We might be able to change a resistor and have it work.

The easiest way I see to figure this out, is have someone take an equally good photo of the front of the circuit board from a v6 tach cluster of the same age. We can compare the chips and resistors. When we see the difference, we know what to switch, resistor/chip wise. After that, it's a simple as 20 minutes with a solder gun, and you're in business.
 
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