Suspension lift vs Crank and level

[Darkrider]

Ok...For the past couple weeks i have been putting a lil too much thought into what i want to do with both trucks. As mentioned in the past i do have overhead clearance issues with a site i patrol so thats gotta be considered. Right now the K3500 has around 16" of overhead clearance in this site and the K1500 has about 10" in this same site due to the canopy. So i need some help from you guys to settle this once and for all..

Options for K1500

RCX 4" and running 285/70R17s
Crank and level and running the same size tires.

Options for the K3500

Pro Comp 6" and running 35s
Crank and Level and running 285/75R16s

Main terrain the trucks encounter are deeply rutted trails, backroads, fire roads and the occasional hill climb. Nothing really calling for 35s. Shelby and i have discussed this at length and his suggestion was to build for the terrain and use A/T tires on the K1500 and M/Ts on the K3500.

Poll is set up for multiple choices

 

[big_mike]

I went with a crank & rear blocks with 285/75/16's on my K1500 due to money. If that had not been a issue then a RCX 4" lift with same tires would have been the route I took. I'm not a fan of my CV axles not being flat but its not hurting anything yet since my bars aren't maxed out. When funds come available I will most likely make the switch to the RCX 4" though. Honestly thats the route I'd take on the 1500.

 

[TylerZ281500]

i say dont mess around with the 3500 go full out SAS. and for the 1500 do it right and do the 4"

 

[rollin smoke]

id say you do ifs lifts on both. itll help your ground clearance on the rutted roads.

as far as SAS goes plan to budget atleast 2k to do it right. but the SAS relly wont help you much since you wont be running that big of tires. ive had a SASed truck and adds up really fast.

 

[ChrisAU]

Well for the 1500 if you are going to run the same size, just crank and level it. Then 6" on the 3500 or like mentioned, SAS!

 

[Darkrider]

Heh...shoulda known the suggestion of SAS would come up for the K3500 Believe me i have def given that option some thought especially considering i have the clearance for it at the site im concerned about. Im looking at what? 7-8" of lift from the SAS and 2" from the taller tires. So at max im lifting the truck 10" which still gives me about 6" before i need to worry about hitting the roof on anything in the parking garage. The main reason i didn't list SAS on the poll is because im going to go look at a 1990 Suburban tomorrow which is already a Solid axle front end from the factory.

 

[TylerZ281500]

no gmt400 sas love. gotta do it the easy way and buy an oobs

 

[rollin smoke]

sas are very easy theses days most kits are bolt on. you could do the swap in a weekend if you get all the lined up first.

just dont skimp on the little things and everything will be all good. as in do drilled and tapped solid bar for draglink and tierod dont do that welded insert on the streets. think of others before you half ass .

i vote SAS all the way if you do it right.

 

[outalne94z71]

sas are very easy theses days most kits are bolt on. you could do the swap in a weekend if you get all the lined up first.

just dont skimp on the little things and everything will be all good. as in do drilled and tapped solid bar for draglink and tierod dont do that welded insert on the streets. think of others before you half ass .

i vote SAS all the way if you do it right.

i did my first one in a couple hours, started after work friday was back on the road at 1am saturday and drove it 45 miles into milwaukee to the nascar races at 8 am that day.

i used stock gm parts and had the rolling axle with springs and hangers on it all ready to roll under.

 

[Darkrider]

no gmt400 sas love. gotta do it the easy way and buy an oobs

I may revisit the idea at a later time

sas are very easy theses days most kits are bolt on. you could do the swap in a weekend if you get all the lined up first.

just dont skimp on the little things and everything will be all good. as in do drilled and tapped solid bar for draglink and tierod dont do that welded insert on the streets. think of others before you half ass .

i vote SAS all the way if you do it right.

Part of the problem is the costs involved in shipping said bolt on kits to canada plus the difficulty in tracking down a ford high pinion dana 60 to keep it to a driver side diff. otherwise I may need to look into adapting an oobs t case shifter to run a pass drop t case.

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