Stranded

[PlayingWithTBI]

So what would prevent that module from being moved?

I had thought about mounting it on the fire wall where the 2 big plugs in the back will reach and just extend the 2 wires that go to the pickup coil. Just haven't done it yet. Maybe if/when my ICM goes out the next time.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

So what would prevent that module from being moved? Extend the wires to any length needed and put the module on the back bumper if you want!

There has to be cooler spots under the hood. A larger, even finned, heat sink could be used.

Ken

I know a lot of ford guys that had similar trouble with ICMs would relocate them to the firewall.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Wellllll... I guess I would rather have to much and have it ooze out all over ensuring 100% coverage than to little and risk having a hot spot. Well, if there is such a thing as "cool" with the enviroment the ICM lives in.

Ken

I've installed a decent amount of CPU heatsinks. Generally speaking too much is not better. It only takes a very small amount to get 100% coverage since you are clamping 2 pretty flat surfaces together.

 

[Schurkey]

Yes, you could relocate the ignition module.

WHY? They were designed from Day One to live inside the distributor. Millions of vehicles from 1974-onward had HEI systems of various kinds, and every one of them that had an aluminum distributor had the module inside. And except for the first few years, HEI was THE MOST RELIABLE electronic ignition system ON EARTH.

The biggest problems with HEI had nothing to do with the module, it was the pickup coil, and the centrifugal advance weights and pivot pins that caused the bulk of the trouble.

Module-in-distributor as designed, is a non-issue for heat, assuming you're buying a quality part and not crippling it by connecting to other parts that are in the process of failing.

IF you relocate the module--and there's no good reason to bother--you'd want to use "twisted pair" technique on the pickup coil wires; perhaps even some shielding so they don't "pick up" interference. Perhaps twisted pair on the coil + and - wires as well.

 

[Edward Case]

So what would prevent that module from being moved? Extend the wires to any length needed and put the module on the back bumper if you want!

There has to be cooler spots under the hood. A larger, even finned, heat sink could be used.

Ken

It's the same reason they put the diesel pmd on the pump in the heat of the engine valley. They saved $5.00 of wires and caused us hundreds in repairs and thousands in lost revenues and inconvenience.

 

[kenh]

IF you relocate the module--and there's no good reason to bother--you'd want to use "twisted pair" technique on the pickup coil wires; perhaps even some shielding so they don't "pick up" interference. Perhaps twisted pair on the coil + and - wires as well.

Would a torrid (I think that is the correct term) be of any use. Some of the Radio Control airplane guys use a torrid to reduce interference of CDI ignition to the radio receiver.

I have to agree there are a LOT of vehicles with the same set up and run reliably for a long time. Again I agree something not normal is usually the cause of the failure.

In my case I am pretty sure the previous owner cleaned the heat sink grease off the module. There was none to be found on either the module or the distributor base plate.

Ken

 

[thinger2]

Yes, you could relocate the ignition module.

WHY? They were designed from Day One to live inside the distributor. Millions of vehicles from 1974-onward had HEI systems of various kinds, and every one of them that had an aluminum distributor had the module inside. And except for the first few years, HEI was THE MOST RELIABLE electronic ignition system ON EARTH.

The biggest problems with HEI had nothing to do with the module, it was the pickup coil, and the centrifugal advance weights and pivot pins that caused the bulk of the trouble.

Module-in-distributor as designed, is a non-issue for heat, assuming you're buying a quality part and not crippling it by connecting to other parts that are in the process of failing.

IF you relocate the module--and there's no good reason to bother--you'd want to use "twisted pair" technique on the pickup coil wires; perhaps even some shielding so they don't "pick up" interference. Perhaps twisted pair on the coil + and - wires as well.

Yes. And I also believe that the bad rap is partially due to the aftermarket business.
Back in right after the end of the civil war we all read Hot Rod magazines and bought speed parts and bolted them onto worn out ****.
Couldnt be the RV cam I stuck in that 280,000 mile 350 and bolted the Holley 750 double on.
Nope!
lets get a Mallory distributor with a accell coil and 3 different kinds of mismatched plug wires
( You get more window stickers if nothing matches)
Its the HEi, Its the Quadrajet, Waah
Obviously, no one in the entire history of drag racing, stock car racing, and hydroplane racing.
Has a friggen clue

 

[thinger2]

Pulled the ignition module off and took it to my friendly Advance Auto store. They tested it and it failed every test. It appeared that this is an original module. At least it was an AC Delco.

I purchased a BWD brand. It has a limited lifetime warranty. They would have to order the AC Delco and it would be Tuesday before it gets here. I would be out a vehicle if I waited. Our car gets driven by my wife and we have way different work schedules so that was a choice I made. We'll see if it was a poor choice or not.....

Ken

Dont worry about the Ac Delco brand.
AC Delco doesnt manufacture anything at all anymore.
They are the "marketing division" of GM
Dont get to hung up on Delphi either.
Delphi is just a parts importer.
The manufacture parts in 24 different countries.
None of which are made in the us
Duralast parts are made by wells vehicle electronics in Wisconsin.
But they are owned by NGK Japan.
Delphi was owned as of a couple of months ago by the British and headquartered in London.
But, as long as the frigging ink that they use to print the label on the box contains one damn chemical from the united states, they can claim that is is a made in america part.
If that part is supposed to be manufactured according to us standards and it is shipped here in a friggen plastic bag along with the boxes it goes into and the box says "made in america"
It passes
Back in the day, you could diagnose a lroblem, narrow it down to a part and go party.
Now, you have do all that and then diagnose the new part.
Seriously, its like I gotta be some kinda Indiana Jones dude.
Ill just be roaming through the sketchy side of Detroit with a volt meter.
"That better be some real GM ****, If that **** dont ohm out Im done "

 

[Schurkey]

Would a torrid (I think that is the correct term) be of any use. Some of the Radio Control airplane guys use a torrid to reduce interference of CDI ignition to the radio receiver.

I think you're talking about a ferrite bead. Yes, I think that could be useful.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead

 

[kenh]

I think you're talking about a ferrite bead. Yes, I think that could be useful.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead

If you scroll down on the link you posted you see a donut looking thing with a blue wire wound through the hole. That is what I was calling a torid.

Ken