Starter shim?

[thinger2]

Swapping starters on a GM has always been a ******* pain.
But you can make it a lot easier.
The worst ***** about it is the wires to the solenoid.
Just pull the cable clamps off of the frame and the battery wires from the battery and pull the starter bolts amd drop the whole damn thing on the ground.
Then you can deal with the little wires.
And you just reverse the process to put it back in.
It really does make it a lot easier.
I also had a simiiar experperiance with the oil cooler delete.
You cant so that its a friggen pain to do etc...
You can drag the oil cooler and its lines from the radiator back in about 15 minutes.
In one piece.
No muss no fuss no ****** around.
Its cake easy.

 

[Schurkey]

Last time I dicked with the oil cooler plumbing, ('97 K2500 7.4L) I couldn't get one of the flare-nuts to unscrew from the radiator that I was replacing.

Bought a cheap deepwell impact socket, cut a side out of it to make a tubing socket. It just spread open and started to damage the nut.

Had to go cryin' to the Snap-On Man for a 20mm flare-nut wrench, (just a smidge tighter than 13/16.) Well, OK, I didn't go crying TO the Snap-On Man, I did my crying afterwards as I left the truck (and my money) behind. It still wouldn't come off. The flare-nut wrench was spreading enough I was scared I'd round the nut.

I cut the tube on that oil-cooler hose assembly so I could put a box-end wrench on it. Put the tube back together with a compression union. At least it was an OEM steel tube, I've heard the Dorman replacements have aluminum tubes.

I had WAY more than 15 minutes in that mess. Be assured that I screwed that flare-nuts into the new radiator with some anti-seize on the threads!

 

[Ehall8702]

Last time I dicked with the oil cooler plumbing, ('97 K2500 7.4L) I couldn't get one of the flare-nuts to unscrew from the radiator that I was replacing.

Bought a cheap deepwell impact socket, cut a side out of it to make a tubing socket. It just spread open and started to damage the nut.

Had to go cryin' to the Snap-On Man for a 20mm flare-nut wrench, (just a smidge tighter than 13/16.) Well, OK, I didn't go crying TO the Snap-On Man, I did my crying afterwards as I left the truck (and my money) behind. It still wouldn't come off. The flare-nut wrench was spreading enough I was scared I'd round the nut.

I cut the tube on that oil-cooler hose assembly so I could put a box-end wrench on it. Put the tube back together with a compression union. At least it was an OEM steel tube, I've heard the Dorman replacements have aluminum tubes.

I had WAY more than 15 minutes in that mess. Be assured that I screwed that flare-nuts into the new radiator with some anti-seize on the threads!

Wait, y'all replace cooler lines? Lol guys up here are so cheap we just put a pipe plug in em at filter housing and that's it. Housing has a pressure bypass so it acts like there is not cooler attached. Best fix is the threaded stud to use the old school big filters and dump the cooling assembly all together...trucks didn't overheat oil before the cooler setup, ain't gonna now either. I personally have mine functional still but when it starts leaking good, it'll go bye bye

 

[thinger2]

Last time I dicked with the oil cooler plumbing, ('97 K2500 7.4L) I couldn't get one of the flare-nuts to unscrew from the radiator that I was replacing.

Bought a cheap deepwell impact socket, cut a side out of it to make a tubing socket. It just spread open and started to damage the nut.

Had to go cryin' to the Snap-On Man for a 20mm flare-nut wrench, (just a smidge tighter than 13/16.) Well, OK, I didn't go crying TO the Snap-On Man, I did my crying afterwards as I left the truck (and my money) behind. It still wouldn't come off. The flare-nut wrench was spreading enough I was scared I'd round the nut.

I cut the tube on that oil-cooler hose assembly so I could put a box-end wrench on it. Put the tube back together with a compression union. At least it was an OEM steel tube, I've heard the Dorman replacements have aluminum tubes.

I had WAY more than 15 minutes in that mess. Be assured that I screwed that flare-nuts into the new radiator with some anti-seize on the threads!

Its actually easy to do.
Pull the lines at the rad.
follow those lines back to the "clamshell" bracket on the frame.
Take clamshell apart and pull the lines off of the rad and get them loose .
Unbolt the oil cooler and rotate the entire assembly towards the passenger side over the front shaft.
Pull the whole mess aft in one piece.
Lines and all and drag it out.
20 minutes.
Easy.
Im gonna go find the cooler I pulled from mine and send you a pic.
Hang tite! its in the carport under a nissan **** wagon

 

[thinger2]

Its actually easy to do.
Pull the lines at the rad.
follow those lines back to the "clamshell" bracket on the frame.
Take clamshell apart and pull the lines off of the rad and get them loose .
Unbolt the oil cooler and rotate the entire assembly towards the passenger side over the front shaft.
Pull the whole mess aft in one piece.
Lines and all and drag it out.
20 minutes.
Easy.
Im gonna go find the cooler I pulled from mine and send you a pic.
Hang tite! its in the carport under a nissan **** wagon

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[thinger2]

Its actually easy to do.
Pull the lines at the rad.
follow those lines back to the "clamshell" bracket on the frame.
Take clamshell apart and pull the lines off of the rad and get them loose .
Unbolt the oil cooler and rotate the entire assembly towards the passenger side over the front shaft.
Pull the whole mess aft in one piece.
Lines and all and drag it out.
20 minutes.
Easy.
Im gonna go find the cooler I pulled from mine and send you a pic.
Hang tite! its in the carport under a nissan **** wagon

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[thinger2]

You must be registered for see images attach

Dont **** with the lines. Unbolt it and flip the whole damn thing over towards the passenger side.
Pull the whole thing out by pulling it towards the back of the truck while you make sure the lines arent hanging up.
You can yank that entire assembly in one piece and pull it put of the truck

 

[thinger2]

Dont **** with the lines. Unbolt it and flip the whole damn thing over towards the passenger side.
Pull the whole thing out by pulling it towards the back of the truck while you make sure the lines arent hanging up.
You can yank that entire assembly in one piece and pull it put of the truck

Anyway, you can pull that entire ******* thing intact right out the ass end of the truck.

 

[east302]

What brand did you replace them with?

Mine are GM from 2005-ish and now leaking enough to warrant attention.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Schurkey]

Its actually easy to do.
Pull the lines at the rad.

That was my problem. Couldn't unscrew one of the nuts holding the tube. I was replacing the radiator, not any of the oil cooler plumbing. I had to cut the one tube to get the rad out.

follow those lines back to the "clamshell" bracket on the frame.
Take clamshell apart and pull the lines off of the rad and get them loose .
Unbolt the oil cooler and rotate the entire assembly towards the passenger side over the front shaft.
Pull the whole mess aft in one piece.
Lines and all and drag it out.
20 minutes.
Easy.
Im gonna go find the cooler I pulled from mine and send you a pic.
Hang tite! its in the carport under a nissan **** wagon

What you have pictured isn't the cooler. The cooler is inside the radiator.

The metal lump in your photo is just the filter/cooler adapter that diverts the oil to (and from) the cooler--not the cooler itself.