sludge

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kiss4afrog

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Since someone was smart enough to ask the color I'd have to add that being black it's usually a normal build up over the years. If it was brown or creamy it's usually moisture from a bad PCV or the PCV breather system being clogged someplace so air can't circulate or a gasket leaking coolant into the engine.
The advice about leaving it alone may be valid. It's like flushing your transmission fluid when you're over 100K and have never done it before. You run the risk of screwing something up. Sometimes the grit in the fluid in a transmission is what's keeping it working. You remove that grit and put in fresh fluid that's nice and slippery and your clutches slip and your transmission burns out. Worked in fleet maintenance and saw this happen a lot with fleet drivers.
With an engine you definitely don't want the grit but it's the idea of doing something to cure what may or may not be a problem. I went against my own advice and flushed my new, used 250,000 mile cars transmission just because I couldn't stand the black and I mean BLACK fluid anymore. I pretty much expected a problem but (knock, knock) so far 16K it's holding up fine.
With your engine you may knock too much stuff loose and plug the pickup or filter but it's very, very rare that happens. People add flush chemicals all the time to clean up the insides of their engines and dealerships sell the service and tend to try to really push it on people who miss the 3k interval. I'm not sure how bad yours is but since it's working you could leave it alone or you could do one can of seafoam and DRIVE it that way for a while (read the can) as it's an oil additive. It's not that aggressive a cleaner or you could try something from a parts store and follow the directions on the container. From the transmission story you can tell I'm in favor of doing the maintenance and keeping it in the best condition I can. It's really your choice but if you follow the directions you should be able to clean up the insides of your engine without any problems. You could also take it to a dealer or independent shop and have them do it and that way they would be responsible. Your truck, your choice.
 

SAATR

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I don't think you run any danger of breaking anything loose if you don't try and mechanically scrape or clean the engine. The best advice I can give is to run a quality non-synthetic oil (only because of cost) and maybe a half a quart of marvel mystery oil to enhance the cleansing action. Run shorter oil change intervals, perhaps 2000 miles, and do this for several oil changes. I would suggest photographing things in their current state, then come back after a few oil changes and see if it has helped any. I have never had this cause any issues with other sludged up motors that I have salvaged with it (lots of 2.7L Chrysler motors :lol:), so I would say it's worth a shot.
 

Aloicious

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I don't think you run any danger of breaking anything loose if you don't try and mechanically scrape or clean the engine. The best advice I can give is to run a quality non-synthetic oil (only because of cost) and maybe a half a quart of marvel mystery oil to enhance the cleansing action. Run shorter oil change intervals, perhaps 2000 miles, and do this for several oil changes. I would suggest photographing things in their current state, then come back after a few oil changes and see if it has helped any. I have never had this cause any issues with other sludged up motors that I have salvaged with it (lots of 2.7L Chrysler motors :lol:), so I would say it's worth a shot.

this is what I'd do in your situation.
 

felon637

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I have cleaned several engines with ATF, Seafoam, and diesel fuel. Used to work on mud trucks a lot. A few times I have drained all of the oil and filled with ATF or diesel fuel to the full mark on the stick and ran it no longer than 30 minutes. My personal vehicle I either put a quart of ATF or a can of Seafoam in a day before I change the oil (about 25miles) and have had no problems.

I would definitely try to clean it with some seafoam. I would also be dropping the oil pan and cleaning the oil pick-up. You will have to do this a few times but you will get good at it. Either that or get prepared for a rebuild in your not so distant future.
 

MOBS

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Here's the ultimate cleaning solution next to stripping the engine :evillol:

Drain all your oil, remove distributor, chuck a flathead shaft in a non-air powered drill, fill your pan with the cleaning substance of your choice and spin that oil pump. I perform this yearly on my Italian and German engines due to this exact same thing, oil gets burned and builds up on valvetrain and in the bearings. The reason behind this issue is entirely my fault, as I KNOW I'm not able to run these engines like they're meant to be. I also have to reverse flush the oil pickups afterwards, which requires someone pouring flush down the "normally pressurized while running" oil passages while spinning the pump in reverse. After the cleaning, then a quick 5-minute prime run is given using diesel fuel to get out any of the flush, then 5w oil is added to push out the diesel and it's run for 5 minutes to warm up and then oil changed to the standard oil needed for those engines.

This is why the yearly maintenance for expensive Italian/German autos costs around the $1k mark. This is what's done at dealerships during the yearly maintenance, along with a cylinder flush and other fine tuning. Ya do it yourself, ya save alot of money haha.

If a tranny/engine has problems like slipping/knocking/chattering after a fluid change, it's because the gunk was filling up the excessive clearances and after cleaning, the clearances are yelling at you that they exist and that you need to fix soon! Much better than leaving them filled with gunk and them continuing to get worse until one day the gunk breaks free and you have the classic "no-go" that sucks if you're anywhere but home.
 
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