Sizes of?.....

[Dariusz Salomon]

Rockauto 2-3 weeks? My last order abot 4 weeks ago was with me in about 4 days.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

And these guys make new brake lines-you don't have to buy the whole set-just search ebay item in ebay and go into their remaining items. I bought them for my hoe when I needed to replace the the brake cylinders-you probably run into the same problem-the moment you undo the bolt brake line starts twisting. Possibly safer to replace lines with cylinders. I paid 72$ with shipping and tax for the rear axle brake lines.

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[Pinger]

You might want to put a squirt of penetrating oil on the bleeder screws before you open them. Let it sit a while before you put the wrench on it.

They've been marinading since Wednesday with few more squirts since.
You're right to suggest it though - makes a world of difference.

Those are easy to round off. There's special L shape wrenches for this purpose, that have a socket in one end, and they're hollowed out so any fluid can come out in a manner it can be controlled. There's also ones that are just box end wrenches that are bent 90 degrees. At lunch now so not close to the big toolbox at home, or l would post pictures. I used to read tool catalogs as a kid LOL.

I have spanner for this (like a ringer with a cut out to slip over the pipe). If there's any doubts, I'll just cut the pipes and get a snug fitting 12 point socket on them.

Edit: a 2500 series should have at least 11" drums and shoes if not 13". My old 90 R2500 Burb had 13" and a semi floating axle. The drums were huge and heavy, but it would stop pretty well. Check on your truck build sheet or the option code list on the inside of the glove box door. The brake option code should be JB and a number like 6,7 or 8 for a 2500. You need this code to get the right parts, because this denotes the master cylinder, calipers, wheel cylinders and shoe and pad size and type.

Above added to my 'to-do' list.
Judging by the shoe size - I have 13'' drums. The size of them was one of the first things my MOT tester remarked on when he put the truck on the ramp. Along the lines of 'how everything size wise is related to the GVW on USA trucks'. He knew mine was 3/4 ton truck.

 

[Pinger]

Rockauto 2-3 weeks? My last order abot 4 weeks ago was with me in about 4 days.

MOT re-test is on the 24th - no later.
I'll make the pipes - I have raw pipe and a flaring tool. Just the fittings and nipps to concern myself with. Can probably just re-use what's there but if I can get (or already have) new then better. The bleed nipps can always be replaced later.

 

[454cid]

They've been marinading since Wednesday with few more squirts since.
You're right to suggest it though - makes a world of difference.

I've had to use heat. Also, not only do the threads not want to turn, but the fitting will bond to the line, so you end up twisting it off.

 

[Pinger]

If your truck has 10" shoes there is Dorman / MTM bleeder screw assortment #13949 that has 5 pairs of bleeders in it. Assuming your have stores there that carry Dorman, hope that might help.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/applicationcheckfit.aspx?&productid=17523

Not offering for rear.

Mine appear to be M7 1.0. Unless they are an imperial size (ie, in inches)?

They are 31mm long (total length) and have 12 threads over 12mm.

Nothing on Rock Auto looks remotely close and anyway, earliest delivery would be 27th Aug.

 

[Pinger]

I've had to use heat. Also, not only do the threads not want to turn, but the fitting will bond to the line, so you end up twisting it off.

The outer end pipe seized in the fitting and broke and had to be drilled out. Otherwise, the fittings and nipps didn't put up too much of a fight. One one side at least. Fittings came apart with a 14mm open ended spanner.
Started making the new pipe to know for sure I could get the tight 90 degree bend at the wheel end - no problem.

For a big truck, there's not much room to work there. Pity they didn't set the whole arrangement 90 degrees round so the cylinder didn't coincide with the spring.

 

[Pinger]

One side done - the side required for MOT re-test so that's good to go.
Re-used all fittings after a thorough clean up. They seem to be pretty solid steel - no rounding off or anything like that. Other side will be done while all the tools are at hand - but broken door glass to do first.

Absolutely my bleed valves are M7 1.0. Might seem sloppy to some to re-use fittings but providing they are in good enough condition, at least they are known to fit.

 

[454cid]

One side done - the side required for MOT re-test so that's good to go.
Re-used all fittings after a thorough clean up. They seem to be pretty solid steel - no rounding off or anything like that. Other side will be done while all the tools are at hand - but broken door glass to do first.

Absolutely my bleed valves are M7 1.0. Might seem sloppy to some to re-use fittings but providing they are in good enough condition, at least they are known to fit.

I've never changed a bleeder by itself. I suppose if calipers were super expensive, I might find a reason to change a bleeder, but normally if a bleeder looks bad enough to change, the whole caliper is getting beyond being serviceable without a rebuild. Rebuilt calipers are cheap enough that not many people actually do it themselves.

 

[Pinger]

I've never changed a bleeder by itself. I suppose if calipers were super expensive, I might find a reason to change a bleeder, but normally if a bleeder looks bad enough to change, the whole caliper is getting beyond being serviceable without a rebuild. Rebuilt calipers are cheap enough that not many people actually do it themselves.

That's a major difference compared to the UK - that calipers are so cheap.

If this job hadn't been sprung on me with a short timeframe to remedy it, I'd have considered new cylinders. As it is though everything so far has been reusable and during the test the brakes performed well on the test rollers so presumably no seized cylinder(s).
Still have the pipe on the other side to do though so could be tempting fate with the above.