ShadowRejects
I drank the Kingpin koolaid
it would make u have more body roll
I know.. Im just so confused one why someone who does more towing and hauling will ever need a SAS. Just doesnt make sense to me.
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it would make u have more body roll
Thankyou!!!Oh my god im ive read through his and im just banging my head.... its his truck if he wants to build a much stronger front end... (no need to argue here solid axle is stronger than ifs no matter how you slice It) and keep it at a lower height then who cares.... just like if you wanna run 35's on stock front end parts with a crank somebody may not like It but you do it anyway because its what YOU wanna do with YOUR truck. My only point here is that I dont understand why instead of helping the guy out with suggestions ita just become an argument over why he wants to do it.
Oh my god im ive read through his and im just banging my head.... its his truck if he wants to build a much stronger front end... (no need to argue here solid axle is stronger than ifs no matter how you slice It) and keep it at a lower height then who cares.... just like if you wanna run 35's on stock front end parts with a crank somebody may not like It but you do it anyway because its what YOU wanna do with YOUR truck. My only point here is that I dont understand why instead of helping the guy out with suggestions ita just become an argument over why he wants to do it.
What is the factory track width from mounting flange to flange on the half-ton ifs? I just bought an axle from a jeep wagoneer that measures 65" flange to flange.
cent frum a smaert fone
That's nothing a 1' spacer on each side should be able to correct without any issue shouldn't it? I'm only going to run a 33" (285/70-17) tire.
It's spring under, which is what I want, as I don't want more than 4" lift max, so a 4" lift spring in 47" variety should net me about 3" of lift which is what I want. I figure a 1" spacer would work just fine with my planned wheel and tire combo. And as for the 7/16 studs, I'm going to swap in a 14bsf in the rear with a disc brake swap and will probably punch the fronts out to accept the newer metric studs, or vice versa, we'll see. I did it on the replacement shaft on my 10-bolt as the shaft was actually for an older Chevy but otherwise worked. As for the flattop knuckles, since I'm going spring under I won't need them.
cent frum a smaert fone
Actually, since I'm likely going to use a wheel spacer in front, I'll get a spacer with lugs that match the rear axle.
cent frum a smaert fone
The strength a solid axle provides, flex, lockers, etc. Ifs is pretty stout, but for what I plan to do, a solid axle fits the bill much better than ifs will. And my front end is shot, and the cost to fix it up to be as tough as a solid axle is pretty stiff.
Ifs is pretty tough no doubt about that. I would keep it if the after market fit gm ifs was as comprehensive as it is for solid axles. And for my application I can almost get away with a sas for less than $2 grand. Not too shabby I would think.
cent frum a smaert fone
Ok, I'll do it all myself, with upgraded parts, plus a lift, and still not have a locker or much flex for around $2k. OR, I could do an sas, with upgraded parts, AND a locker, AND good flex, for $2k and/or a little more, doing the work myself. I did the math over and over again, and the logistics for what I want said that doing an ifs lift would not meet my needs, and an sas would. Plain and simple. That's why I'm going with a low profile sas.
You stated a few posts above that you were only looking to tow and use your bed. When would flex come in handy in any of those situations?