replacement fuel line options (1998)

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BOTTLEDZ28

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I need to replace the fuel lines in my 98 2 door Tahoe. I live in New England so take that for what it is.

I recently stumbled upon these nylon hose kits for our vehicles. Does anyone have any feedback on these kits?

Right now, its either the nylon kits for $145, stock replacements from Fineline for $300 or braided lines and custom fittings from Racetronix for about $250.
 

94burbk1500

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If I had to do mine, I'd go with braided. I don't know much about the nylon kits. I think RDF1 used some form of nylon lines for his trans lines.
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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I bought the nylon kit that goes from the tank to the filter. THe rest of the OEM lines are in great shape. Ill report back with pics
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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This would be my pick, Racetronix makes good stuff. Loved the pump kit I bought for my WS6 from them.


Well, Racetronix can eat my dogs balls!! Terrible service. I as told on Monday that in order for them to get me the corect hotwire harness kit for my truck that I would have to drop the tank and look at the wiring harness INSIDE the module. Well, I opened up a can of worms because in the process of dropping the tank, one of the fuel lines got too tight and broke the fitting off the module. Ive done this a dozen times before and never had an issue. Now that the tank is down, I figured I would replace the tank with a new one. Then I decide to replace the fuel lines since Im in there now. I'm into this $400.
Ie been playing phone tag with Racetronix since Monday to give them the pictures they need of the connectors on my truck. Now, the tech that was "helping" me isnt in today and I speak to the owner "Jack". I give him the two part numbers to the hotwire harness and the new module that one of his techs gave me and he tells me those are NOT the right parts and then ask me "why do you need a high performance pump and hotwire kit if your truck is stock?"
I told him that his tech said the factory wiring in these trucks is terrible and it kills the pumps. He said no, it is just the connector on the top of the module.

I have been waiting for 4 days to get info from them and now I am told I dont even need the module or the hotwire harness they sell. So, I didnt even need to drop the tank and open this can of worms!!!

Looks like its going to be another Delphi module for me. Hope it fixes this low fuel pressure issue.
 

big_mike

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Hmmm, that's odd. Normally their service is great and quick. I have only ever dealt with them on LS1tech though through the forum. Always got prompt responses in PMs.

When I got my pump from them I just got a pump and put it in the stock bucket, but that was for a 98-02 Fbody too. I had wondered since these pump styles look pretty similar if the same pump kit would work. I just don't have the time or funds to test the idea.
 

In the Weeds

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I went with a plastic replacement from gastankrenu.net.
Everything was a great replacement, and the price was within reason.
I will be using their products again, as I received my order quickly, and correct.
Good Luck...
 

mars2878

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how about inline tube @ https://www.inlinetube.com/

I'm also in N.E.

I just bought their full brake stainless kit for my 99 c3500 cclb, arrived quick, looks good so far (didn't install yet, gonna order & do the fuel lines @ the same time), they emailed to verify that it was obs & nbs model.
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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I went with a plastic replacement from gastankrenu.net.
Everything was a great replacement, and the price was within reason.
I will be using their products again, as I received my order quickly, and correct.
Good Luck...


That is who I went with. Great product so far. A lot easier to install than hard lines.
 

Ken K

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The bucket type fuel pump design was to keep a supply of un-aireated fuel to reduce loss of volume resulting in a drop of pressure. Depending on the year, they would use a high pressure bleed from the pump, to run a small tube into a brass venturi nozzle encased in plastic on the bottom inside the bucket. This creates a vacuum to pull fuel off the bottom of the tank into the bucket to surround the pump. This helps avoid the mis-fire counter and check engine light. Take a pocket flat blade screw driver to the three tabs on the buckets top, and look inside. If clean, your good. Dirt, dust and dark inside filter on the pumps inlet, you need to clean the tank with hot water. The hotter the better with rocking motion then drain. Let dry and install pump and tank. Yes, they up-graded the connector to 280 terminals, but use dielectric grease. The more restrictions in the primary, secondary or service fuel filter, the harder the pump has to work. This results in higher amperage to the pump and starts to over-heat the terminals.
Year of tank re-fills will collect dust & dirt and micro debris that settles on the bottom of the tank. This accumulates with time and if not removed, you WILL have a pre-mature fuel pump failure.
If your pump assembly has springs on top, requiring you to push down to lock-in, this is a bottom referencing pump. It will have rubber feet on the bottom and two filters, one inside and one on the bottom that you can see. If it hangs from the top, that is the old pump on-a-stick. The bottom referencing pump is the new style to reduce mis-fire with low fuel in the tank while turning onto the interstate, stop & go plus other driving conditions. Inspect pump and clean if need. ACDelco fuel pump that came new with the truck lasted 120k + miles, new pump last three weeks, this is the reason. Damm CARB rules!
Retired ASE Master Tech.
 
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